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Discussion Starter #1
Well, I installed my Digital Guard Dawg Keyless Ignition and Security last night. So, I thought I would post my comments about it.

First the install:
Install was pretty straight forward, but I was a little nervous to have to cut and splice factory wires. So, I went real slow and triple checked everything. The install instructions tell you to find a 10-pin connector labeled right-hand side. But, my bike actually had 2 separate wire harness (6-pin and a 4-pin). And the 4 pin was labeled right-turn signal.

But, since all the wires were the colors as they described in the instructions, I just traced the 6-pin harness back to the right-hand controls and triple check myself.

I skipped over installing the optional accessory switch. Since I don't have any accessories to turn on... I did have to tape the end of the accessory switch wires, so they were not sitting around bare opposed.

Now, I have to find new cheese wedges, or at least a insert cover for the left side to cover up the open hole were the key ignition switch use to be...

As far as review, I really do like it. I haven't had much time to play with it. But, so far it has been really sweet to just walk up to the bike and hit the Run/Stop switch, let the fuel pump prime, and hit the starter!! Makes me wish I lived in a state without helmet laws!!

I still have the key on the keychain for the gas tank and hardbags. But, I find myself rarely actually locking the bags. So, I may order me one of those no-key gas cap bung holes from kewlmetal...

Can't decide if I would get chrome or go with unfinished and just polish it up to match the risers...
 

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Henry,
Good review! I'm looking at getting the system too; I'm tired of my key fob waving in the wind (it's rubber so no damage to the wedge).

Your insurance should consider this a security system and should give you a discount since they do for cars with systems that disable the ignition system.

You can get wedge covers from Noemtz; he carries Barracuda Custom accessories - barracuda has a program that allows you to send in a graphic and they'll put it on the wedge inset. They have great quality and prices.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
DGD advertises that it is a passive security system and says most insurance companies will give you a discount. I'll call my insurance company and let you know what I find out...

Everyone at bike night last night, complimented it. The smokers suggested mounting a cigarette lighter to replace the key ignition. LOL
Thought was funny and a good idea, except I don't smoke. :ltr:
 

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Good write-up, Henry. I hope you can answer this question I've had in my mind ever since I first heard of the DGD: At what point does your low beam light turn on? When you get close to the bike?
 

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Good write-up, Henry. I hope you can answer this question I've had in my mind ever since I first heard of the DGD: At what point does your low beam light turn on? When you get close to the bike?
i'm sure he can answer better but digging into the website i noticed this

Dawg Tags have 4 adjustable range settings from between 2’ – 25’ feet and can be cross-programmed allowing one tag to operate multiple bikes. You can also easily select between Automatic or Manual modes, via the Dawg Tag, giving you complete control of how and when the system arms and disarms.
im seriously considering one because i hate dealing with the keys and have lost some already (i dont put a fob on it because i dont like slamming it against the wedges). Would definitely require a popup gas cap as well
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Good write-up, Henry. I hope you can answer this question I've had in my mind ever since I first heard of the DGD: At what point does your low beam light turn on? When you get close to the bike?
I was always wondering how this would go also. And, now I couldn't be happier!! :D

Basically, when the bike is "armed", all the electronics are disabled/off. So, no headlights, no fuel pump, no accessories. If the bike is still armed, and someone flips your Run/Stop switch to Run. Nothing comes on. This is super nice, so no one and screw with you and drain your battery.

Then, if the Run switch is on, and you "disarm" the bike, all the electronics come on, fuel pump primes, and you can then hit the starter...
If the Run switch is off, and you "disarm", then everything still looks "dead" (turned off) until you flip the Run/Stop switch to Run. then everything turns on, smack the starter and away you go...

Makes me DREAM of not wearing a helmet!! Shhh, dont tell me wife or my dad on that one! ;)

It was expensive add-on at $400 bucks! But, I love it! Even if it forces me to spend another $200 on the gas cap...
 

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I was always wondering how this would go also. And, now I couldn't be happier!! :D

Basically, when the bike is "armed", all the electronics are disabled/off. So, no headlights, no fuel pump, no accessories. If the bike is still armed, and someone flips your Run/Stop switch to Run. Nothing comes on. This is super nice, so no one and screw with you and drain your battery.

Then, if the Run switch is on, and you "disarm" the bike, all the electronics come on, fuel pump primes, and you can then hit the starter...
If the Run switch is off, and you "disarm", then everything still looks "dead" (turned off) until you flip the Run/Stop switch to Run. then everything turns on, smack the starter and away you go...

Makes me DREAM of not wearing a helmet!! Shhh, dont tell me wife or my dad on that one! ;)

It was expensive add-on at $400 bucks! But, I love it! Even if it forces me to spend another $200 on the gas cap...
Sorry, I'm being slow. :( I still don't get how the low beam (running light) acts. On stock configuration, the low beam comes on as soon as you turn the key in the ignition - not necessary to hit the "run/kill" switch. So, if you're approaching the bike it disarms and the light turns on? And if you step away, it arms again, and the light goes off?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Sorry, I'm being slow. :( I still don't get how the low beam (running light) acts. On stock configuration, the low beam comes on as soon as you turn the key in the ignition - not necessary to hit the "run/kill" switch. So, if you're approaching the bike it disarms and the light turns on? And if you step away, it arms again, and the light goes off?
Basically, the Run/Stop switch is now your ignition switch also. Meaning, if your bike is disarmed and the Run/Stop switch is on, then the headlights are on and ready to start the bike.

It works like you said. Except, since you have to hit the switch to stop the engine when parking, I tend to leave the switch off and walk away. I guess you could kill it, then switch it back to Run, and walk away. It will "arm" the bike, (i think its in 30 seconds), which will shut everything down. So, when you get back in range, it will all power up again.

Hmmm, guess I could try working it that way for a while and see which I like best. Though, I hate it when people stop me and say hey your lights are still on. And, then I have to explain it will shut itself off...
 

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Hmmm, guess I could try working it that way for a while and see which I like best. Though, I hate it when people stop me and say hey your lights are still on. And, then I have to explain it will shut itself off...
Hehehe... Yeah, sometimes helpful strangers can be a pain in the butt - especially if you're not having a good day.

My bike's running lights are independent of the kill switch. The kill switch only stops/allows engine to start. My lights come on as soon as key is turned in the ignition, regardless of the position of the kill switch. :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
My bike's running lights are independent of the kill switch. The kill switch only stops/allows engine to start. My lights come on as soon as key is turned in the ignition, regardless of the position of the kill switch. :confused:
Yes. But, with the DGD Keyless Ignition, you remove your key ignition completely. Then, you splice your keyless ignition into the Run/Stop Switch wires. Thus making the Run/Switch multi-purposed. Now, with DGD, your Run/Stop switch it kills the engine, it also turns all power to all electronics On and Off.
And, with DGD RFID reciever, control over the Run/Stop switch is "locked" and "unlocked" via the FOB.

Did that make sense?
 

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Yes. But, with the DGD Keyless Ignition, you remove your key ignition completely. Then, you splice your keyless ignition into the Run/Stop Switch wires. Thus making the Run/Switch multi-purposed. Now, with DGD, your Run/Stop switch it kills the engine, it also turns all power to all electronics On and Off.
And, with DGD RFID reciever, control over the Run/Stop switch is "locked" and "unlocked" via the FOB.

Did that make sense?
Now it's crystal clear. Thank you. thumb up cheers
 

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I'm sure someone has thought of it, but I gotta ask -

What happens if / when that fails? Is there some way to bypass the device and start your bike - short of undoing the installation? Is it designed to "fail" into an "unarmed" condition? Everything electronic I've ever seen fails at some point (and usually at the worst possible time).
 

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Discussion Starter #16
that all depends on the point of failure. DGD claims if you get stuck out int he middle of no where, you can call them, and they can tell you how to disarm the bike.

And, in about 2 minutes, you could unplug the ignition harness, and plug in you key ignition and use it, if need be...
 

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I like the idea and have thought of getting one myself, though I will admit that the whole failure thing does bother me a bit. Nice to know there is some sort of work around.

Here's to hoping you never have to make that call to DGD from the middle of nowhere. cheers
 

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Does it have the Acc. position for just radio and clearance lights?

Just curious because I have found that very nice in some situations.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Does it have the Acc. position for just radio and clearance lights?

Just curious because I have found that very nice in some situations.
The DGD kit comes with an optional Accessories Switch, for just that reason. Since, I do not have any accessories, I didn't bother to install it. Though, I left the wire capped and in the headlight bucket, just in case I ever do put a radio, power outlet, or LEDs...
 

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Mine was installed at the dealer (they charged way too much for it but hey it was a gift) and my Geico Ins did give me a discount. I am finding that I have to pat my pocket to active it when I walk up to the bike. I had them leave the ignition there... let everything think it needs one... Still need the key for the gas tank though.... grrrr...
 
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