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Discussion Starter #1
getting it dialed in with help from Red Vic. bike feels stronger + runs better. its good to be able to SEE your REAL fuel ratio on the gauge, exactly what i need on a mildly modified Hammer. not looking for ultimate power + will never do cams or open the engine unless it breaks. install was not bad, i work slow + follow the instructions!
 

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getting it dialed in with help from Red Vic. bike feels stronger + runs better. its good to be able to SEE your REAL fuel ratio on the gauge, exactly what i need on a mildly modified Hammer. not looking for ultimate power + will never do cams or open the engine unless it breaks. install was not bad, i work slow + follow the instructions!
Is there some reason it won't work with cams?
 

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I think he's just saying he's not going to do cams, not interested. I'm sure it will work with cams.
Ordered mine last week, they said 10-14 days before shipping (?) Maybe they build them as they are ordered, I don't know. I'm interested in putting it in diagnostic mode as soon as I install it to see where I have been running. Then putting it control.
 

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Awesome, I'll be installing mine tomorrow morning.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Dobeck + cams

the gen IV will work period! what most say is if you do cams or upsize your engine to get the "most" out of it on a DYNO tune the adjustability of a power commander is best. with the Dobeck or VFC gen IV you set the fuel ratios you want, there is no ability to alter timing. so if you put thousands into your engine another thousand for a fuel tuner + dyno to get the best performance is preferred if you got the $$$$$. that little xtra is costly but it depends on what you want + are willing to spend
 

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rodhotter-when you get a chance can you post what settings you used that way i can get a good starting point for mine especially on the switching points.
 

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rodhotter-when you get a chance can you post what settings you used that way i can get a good starting point for mine especially on the switching points.
I sent you a PM with some detailed instructions with settings for each mode. Only Mode one (Green Mode) might be different than the number in the directions when you first set up the programmer.

The others you can start with the numbers provided as they are a pretty solid starting point and you should not have to change them much. Just don't go to rich your acceleration modes. If you are going down into the lower to even mid 12's on your Red acceleration mode you are going to be way to rich. The Green/Blue acceleration mode you will enter a number in the low 12's but remember that one is not an air/fuel ratio it is just adding or subjecting fuel.

The only air/fuel ratio settings you will have will be your Yellow cruise mode and your Red acceleration mode.

This programmer will also work fine with cams.
 

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One note about the Dobeck programmer. When you are cruising along under a light throttle cruise you may switch from the closed loop yellow cruise program into the green open loop light cruise program, this is not an issue so don't try tweaking the switch points trying to force it stay in the closed loop yellow mode program.

The green open loop program is for idle and light cruise.
 

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Here are the numbers I am running:

Green- 11.7
Yellow- 14.2
Red- 12.9
Blue/Green- 14.5
Blue/Yellow- 11.0
Blue/Red- 12.0

Stage 1 filter
stage 1 flash
shotgun pipes
qq baffles
ATS @ +4°
vcf3 in the trash.

I have been setting it to hold approx 14 on light cruise open loop (green only) 3rd, 4th, 5th gears. and 14 in closed loop (blue yellow).



m
 

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Discussion Starter #11
settings from Red Vic

a nice writeup from Red Vic on *** in tech Q+A as a reply to my post test run finally Dobeck + EBC. green @ about 12.3, yellow @ 14, red @ 13 grn-blu 12.2, yel-blu @ 11 or lower, i lowered yel-blu to 10.5 to get into yellow sooner. the post explains things well + that not all settings are AFR ratios. as always a big thank you for the many helpful posts on both forums. this is my first Vic + am always looking to learn. my 13 hammer has the dealer download for the tri pro pipe which i opened up by drilling 3 3/8 holes in the engine side of the steel baffle, also a ness filter + timing wheel @ 4 advanced. i always run shell 93 octane + may try 5 or 6 advanced now that know what AFR is + can control fuel ratios
 

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Here are the numbers I am running:

Green- 11.7
Yellow- 14.2
Red- 12.9
Blue/Green- 14.5
Blue/Yellow- 11.0
Blue/Red- 12.0

Stage 1 filter
stage 1 flash
shotgun pipes
qq baffles
ATS @ +4°
vcf3 in the trash.

I have been setting it to hold approx 14 on light cruise open loop (green only) 3rd, 4th, 5th gears. and 14 in closed loop (blue yellow).



m
You are running awful lean on your Green/Blue open loop acceleration mode. I would drop that one down into the 12.2 range. While the Green/Blue is not an air/fuel ratio you have removed a considerable amount of fuel from that open loop acceleration mode program.

The only two settings that you can set the air/fuel ratios are the closed loop Yellow cruise mode and the closed loop Red acceleration mode. The other two you are just adding or subtracting fuel from the Dobeck open loop program modes which would be the Green idle/light cruise mode and the Green/Blue acceleration mode.

Looking at your green open loop setting you may be on the rich side. I sent you a PM.
 

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Everything went together really well. Went for a short test ride today and runs really well so far. Right off the bat i noticed the little bit of popping i previously had is almost non existent now. Tomorrow and rest of this week will be the real test commuting 160 miles per day. I went with the black gauge, see pic.
 

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Everything went together really well. Went for a short test ride today and runs really well so far. Right off the bat i noticed the little bit of popping i previously had is almost non existent now. Tomorrow and rest of this week will be the real test commuting 160 miles per day. I went with the black gauge, see pic.
looks nice.
 

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Big thanks to Victory 1 and rodhotter for the great info
 

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While I'm now a cool-aide drinking PCV/Dyno-Tune fan, after reading a lot of KevinX's posts recently, he's doing quite well with this new tuner on his bike and likes it. And if I had to guess, that bike ain't stock by no means.

So if I were doing it myself in garage without doing a dyno'd PCV, I'd run of these with cams, timing wheel etc no problem. I wouldn't let that scare me. Especially on the XC and Visions where you guys have nice dash spots to mount the gauge. thumb up
 

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I installed mine yesterday and spent a couple of hours tweaking it.

Although i love being able to change my commanded AFR on the fly and target it accurately, i do have a few concerns:

- it takes too long to boot up and function, like 30 seconds
- once, it sputtered and leaned out for a sec and wouldnt go into closed loop for about 3 minutes.(EDIT: I just realized it's a heated O2 sensor and isnt supposed to go into CL until it reaches OT.)
- i have to set the yellow/blue transition setting all the way to the left, and it still spends more time in green mode than I'd like.

And im still not quite sure how the "accelerator" green/blue function is supposed to work.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
still good

mine is wideband only + still running well on my 13 hammer, gauge is in the lo 13 range, very satisfied! i love the fact you can see whats going on. recently switched to no corn 93 octane was running shell 93 before, much better without corn piss!!
 

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Open loop cruse mode

Dobeck AFR+ Gen IV are now open loop for the first two modes, and closed loop for WOT. Purchased mine just after the change over.

"7/1/2014 Code Update - AFR+ systems for p/n 712014 are now shipped with the YELLOW mode being in OPEN LOOP fueling. Previous shipped versions of the part number had YELLOW being a CLOSED LOOP mode. You can determine which programmed setup is in your controller by whether or not the BLUE LED comes on with the YELLOW mode. The BLUE LED indicates the AFR+ system is in CLOSED LOOP mode."

Just FWIW.
 
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