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Discussion Starter #1
cruise wont set, they talk of a dodgy switch known to cause problems and to disconnect it.
Is this it???
got tank off so be good to know, as havent actually seen a pic of whats talked about.
See pic
 

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Yes sir, that's it. Remove both wires and tape them individually to prevent them from touching each other. When that switch goes out you simply won't be able to set your cruise control. By removing the wires, it should engage just fine. The only downside is that rotating the throttle backwards won't disengage cruise once its set. You can still disengage cruise control with either brake or the clutch lever. My switch went out a few years ago and I don't miss that switch not working at all.
 

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??? So that switch is activated by the throttle but if it goes out then you can't set your cruise either?
 

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??? So that switch is activated by the throttle but if it goes out then you can't set your cruise either?
Correct. That switch is the one that allows a roll-off of the throttle to disengage the cruise control. With the switch broken, the cruise control computer thinks that the throttle is ALWAYS in the roll-off position so the cruise cannot be engaged.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
crazy hey, I live my whole life without cruise and when I get a bike with it then it stuffs up 3rd time I use it!
 

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Correct. That switch is the one that allows a roll-off of the throttle to disengage the cruise control. With the switch broken, the cruise control computer thinks that the throttle is ALWAYS in the roll-off position so the cruise cannot be engaged.
I am going have to remember that or write in my XR binder where I printed off the factory repair manual years ago. I rarely ever use the cruise control because I am rarely on a straight enough road to engage it. I've got a 4-lane near my house with a straight stretch that I turn it on a few times a year to test it and thats about it.
 

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Yes sir, that's it. Remove both wires and tape them individually to prevent them from touching each other. When that switch goes out you simply won't be able to set your cruise control. By removing the wires, it should engage just fine. The only downside is that rotating the throttle backwards won't disengage cruise once its set. You can still disengage cruise control with either brake or the clutch lever. My switch went out a few years ago and I don't miss that switch not working at all.
I'm having the same issue with my cruise control, I tried disconnecting these wires last night, it didn't help. I get the momentary green cruise light on the dash, but the LED on the control stays red, so I thought this was it. Does it matter if both are removed or just one? Could my switch be bad enough that it still doesn't work with both wires disconnected? I've checked all the fuses, those are good, also.

I saw in another thread about a voltage issue, but the only thing I can think of is I added the saddlebag saber lights, but those plugged right into the accessory harness going to the trunk.

I rarely use my cruise, so I'm not sure when it actually stopped working, I'm heading to Austin this evening from Dallas, for ROT rally, so I tried the cruise the other night.
 

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There is a bunch of fuses under the right side cover.


I checked those, I found in another thread to check the chassis fuse (20A fuse)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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If the control light stays on it should be working from my understanding?
Now I'm confused. Hopefully you get resolved soon.
 

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The control light only shows you have power to the light. Might be good to check all of the fuses under the side cover.
Hmm okay. Mine works but I see threads like this describing what seems normal other than not working.

OP will hopefully get it going soon.
 

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I'm having the same issue with my cruise control, I tried disconnecting these wires last night, it didn't help. I get the momentary green cruise light on the dash, but the LED on the control stays red, so I thought this was it. Does it matter if both are removed or just one? Could my switch be bad enough that it still doesn't work with both wires disconnected? I've checked all the fuses, those are good, also.
The "switch" is very simple and is integrated into the cable. It makes no difference if you disconnect one or both wires. Wth one or both wires disconnected you've eliminated the switch as a problem.

Try running the cruise diagnostics and see if that gives any clue.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
been lazy on disconnecting mine, Ill try later today , And report back.
 

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I never had a bad switch. I did over tighten the cable a few times which will appear as a bad switch. I also had 2 fuses blown behind the right side cover.
 

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The "switch" is very simple and is integrated into the cable. It makes no difference if you disconnect one or both wires. Wth one or both wires disconnected you've eliminated the switch as a problem.

Try running the cruise diagnostics and see if that gives any clue.
Mine fails the first part of the test in that when the buttons are both released the green cruise indicator on the dash stays on...
 

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Step #5?

The manual says:

Front brake switch, rear brake switch, or throttle switch is closed.

Enter diagnostic mode. Disconnect each switch, one at a time, while watching the cruise indicator. If the cruise light goes out when a switch is disconnected, inspect the switch and related circuit wiring. If the throttle switch is suspect, adjust throttle cable free play as described in Chapter 2 and test the switch. Disconnect the switch and connect an Ohmmeter to the switch contacts (on the throttle close cable). The throttle switch should have continuity only when the throttle is closed firmly, and no continuity when throttle is released (Pin 4 of module should not be powered when throttle is released).
 

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The "switch" is very simple and is integrated into the cable. It makes no difference if you disconnect one or both wires. Wth one or both wires disconnected you've eliminated the switch as a problem.

Try running the cruise diagnostics and see if that gives any clue.
I haven't gotten a chance to try to diagnostic mode yet, but last week, I rode to Austin from Dallas for ROT rally, with the days there we did about 650 miles, most of it with my wife riding behind me on her Can Am Spyder. She told me that she would see my brake lights flash occasionally, I'm assuming bumps in the road causing it, but that got me thinking that if those contacts are close enough for my brake light to flash, maybe this could be what is causing my cruise control to not engage. Has anyone here had this happen? My initial thought is the brake light switch on the rear brakes.
 

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It could be the problem, although I would think you'd be able to set the cruise but it would cancel when you hit a bump. What you're describing about the light could be the switch but then again it could be a short somewhere.

The diagnostic mode tests the following:

The self-diagnostic test on page 19.23 will test the following signal inputs to the module:

• SET/DEC Button on the handlebar switch.
• RES/ACC button on the handlebar switch.
• Front and rear brake light switch.
• Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS).
• Tachometer Signal.

If the red LED on the handlebar switch is on when powered, but the self diagnostics will not function, disconnect the harness from the module (located in the frame opening under the seat) and verify that battery voltage is reaching the module on Pin A (White / Dark Blue wire).

NOTE: The red LED only indicates that power is reaching the handlebar control and does not indicate that power is reaching the module. If the self diagnostic function performs normally (page 19.23) power is reaching the module and the inputs listed above are present and functional.

Disconnect harness from module. Test Input / Outputs with a 12V test light or a multimeter and compare to table. Verify Pin E (Black wire) has a good ground to the rear frame. The ground connection is located under the right inner panel under the right side cover.
 
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