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Witchdoctors has those Barnett clutch cables saying they reduce clutch effort. I dont have a major problem with the clutch, but I want to ask if we have any proof that says the stock 2016 cable 1. Not plastic coated so the Barnett is better. 2. Is poorly made and improved with a Barnett Clutch cable. 3. Requires a lot more effort than the Barnett. Barnett claim is 40% reduction in pull force. WTF? its 2016 and is this true?
 

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Witchdoctors has those Barnett clutch cables saying they reduce clutch effort. I dont have a major problem with the clutch, but I want to ask if we have any proof that says the stock 2016 cable 1. Not plastic coated so the Barnett is better. 2. Is poorly made and improved with a Barnett Clutch cable. 3. Requires a lot more effort than the Barnett. Barnett claim is 40% reduction in pull force. WTF? its 2016 and is this true?
When i was reading about 10 forum members breaking the stock cable on the road... i decided to replace it with that barnet cable ... I did not notice that much difference, but i replaced it coz it lasts MUCH longer than stock, and now i carry the stock one as a spare in my CCT ....

Maybe in the next few years they will be difficult to find ?

Andre using TaPaTaLk
 

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Andre may not have noticed much difference on his Jackpot, but when I put a Barnett cable on my XR I sure noticed a much lighter and smoother pull. That cable, combined with an EZ-Pull and my clutch is like that on a 250cc bike. Which is much appreciated by this old rider.
 

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I've had 2 original and 1 Barnett. There may be a minor difference. Lubricate the ends and any cable will work better. I'd stay away from the EZ clutch unless you know your way around the shop.
There's a lot of truth in that last sentence. Not only is free play a bit dicey, but possible, but you also have to do some clever shimming to align the cable with the sheath at the bottom end so it comes out straight. You also have to make sure there are no rough spots on the EZ-Pull that will chafe the cable. Should do that at the handlebar lever too.
 

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40 percent is a big diff. BIG claim to make with the barnett cable. Maybe someday we will find evidence of this magic.
Wheres it say 40%?
I fitted a Barnett cable after my rebore and cams as I also fitted a Barnett Scorpion clutch and wanted as much as possible in my favour with old arthritic hands.
The Barnett Scorpion was overkill so I went back to a Victory clutch with Barnett spring and cover plate which is still quite heavy.
I honestly dont think theres any difference in effort between stock cable and Barnett.
The real reason I went with Barnett cable it was on special at the time and it was 6" over which was good with my Burleigh Bars but bottom line the Barnett is stronger and better designed the way the barrel ends pivot and dont stress the cable.
The stock cable has inherent weak points in its design and even though my stocker lasted 60,000 miles as Im critical about maintenance of the cable ends which is crucial with the stock cable.
Im about to go back to the Victory green spring and stock coverplate soon and with that setup I can use the EZ Clutch ad all will be sweet as Im only on 115hp 123 tq and stock clutch is ok with those numbers.
Only then can I give a true opinion onthe feel of the Barnett cable.
Bottom line its less liable to break.
 

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I still have the stock clutch cable on and have had an EZ clutch on for over 40K miles. Both ends of the cable look fine, no fraying or wear. Clutch is fine with 51K miles so far. If you don't know how to adjust the free play in a clutch cable then you'd be better served with a hydraulic clutch. I think with the substantial reduced effort on the clutch with the EZ clutch cover my cable should last substantially longer.
 

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A hydraulic clutch can be a bitch to adjust if you aren't clever at improvising mechanical situations.
 

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The big thing is to lube both ends of the cable that will help prevent breakage.
Having a spare cable on hand will help you so
someday maybe. That threaded part of adjustment put some antiesize on the threads to prevent rust

 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)

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:grin
https://buywitchdoctors.com/p/597977/victory-magnum-cables-shop-parts-accessories-clutch-black-inches-sc-2637/

Yeah wrong link but really, 40% less effort out of a throttle cable? With a 1/4 turn, you might be dead soon :eek

A Hyd clutch would be nice for $300 but they are gone and to buy individual parts added up to $666.00 on one of the Part fish sites. I should have screen shot it.
ahh the old marketing ploy those words "up to"....."up to 40%"

by the way..Whats the problem with your clutch?
EDIT..Just went back to your first post where you say you haven't got a clutch problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yeah no clutch problem and I am about to inspect and oil it. I do know that my cable on the Buell ran for about 13 years and was not plastic coated. I changed it because I was putting in Barnett Clutch. The new plastic coated cable was a true 40% decrease in effort. Maybe even a redesigned cable??? With the Muller Ez Pull Clutch its even better. The low speed torque on a Buell can be dangerous. An easy pull clutch helps deal with all the low speed parking lot torque. I think my questions was rooted here and not the obvious marketing.
 

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Bueller

you have never answered me was your Buell a HD one or was it from Buell himself
 

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Just something as simple as feeding lube down the stock cable helps out a ton, pretty much those all come from the factory with like nothing inside the sleeve, if you got something small enough to get between the cable and sleeve like a needle or cable lube device, I have seen those make any cable last last least twice as long.

I remember a while ago I went to a gun show and there was a gent there that had all kinds of gunsmithing tools, I picked up a oil needle and have used that thing for YEARS. I wanna say it hold about a bottle cap worth of oil and you can apply it to certain pin point areas, but it was also a small enough gauge where I could use it for cables and chains as well.

Keep pumping oil or lube into the cable till it runs out the bottom, I have also put my cables in used oil over night and let that soak into them then drip dried them, that works wonders.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Just something as simple as feeding lube down the stock cable helps out a ton, pretty much those all come from the factory with like nothing inside the sleeve, if you got something small enough to get between the cable and sleeve like a needle or cable lube device, I have seen those make any cable last last least twice as long.
I used the special stuff with the special tool. I stayed on top of lubing that stock cable that was uncoated. Off the bike it was loose to move back and forth. I really had no reason to change it other than age. So was glad i did. How many poor sob are using an old uncoated today? Way too many imo.
 
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