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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Electrical gremlin *Solved*

Hello everyone, new member and new owner. I purchased a 2007 KP Tour back in June with 10K miles on it. I'm over 14K to date and loving it!!

I just started developing a strange electrical issue that I could use some assistance tracking down the cause. Let me start with the symptoms...

When I first start out on the bike for the day, everything functions fine. Soon after (say 1 - 3 miles down the road) my turn signals will stop functioning properly. Will not come on and/or stays lit for several seconds... Holding the signal switch on will cause it to work with a marked delay in the timing of the actuation of the light.

Sometimes, but not always, after extended riding (30 mins or more), once the rpms drop below 2k the check engine light will come on and the bike wants to stall. Blipping the throttle, or keeping it tac'd above 2k will keep the bike running, and usually turn off the check engine light. This does not always occur and can be very sporadic when it does.

Strangely, sometimes I can shift the bike slightly, either leaning it a little or just cocking the bars a little at a red light and the signals will work. Until I move just a little and they are out again. Again, holding the switch will allow them to continue a slow flash.

I thought it might be the regulator but testing voltage at the battery shows 14.27ish weather at idle or tac'd above 2k and the same reading if the signals are working or acting up....

Also, with the signals acting up and the bike not running, if I hit the kill switch to disengage the fuel system, the signals start working. I can then flip the kill switch off and on and the signals work with the switch in the off position but stop when the fuel pump engages...

I would think it to be a wire grounding out slightly somewhere and dropping the current to the turn signals but why would that affect the fuel system? Once it happens, it appears to continue until the bike sets for an extended time (over night) which had me thinking heat related??

Any assistance is greatly appreciated. I'm a pretty good DIY'r if I know where to look and for what. I'm not sure where I should be testing currents but believe this should be traceable..
 

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First don't just check your battery connection undo them clean them put some grease on them and put them back on tight.
Second do yourself a favor and buys some relays, I think there are four of them in your fuse panel but I not sure as I had a 04 KP.
If a relay malfunctions it causes problems like you described.
 

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Sounds like a bad ground to me , also check the wiring going into the back of the headlight , everything electrical runs through there. Look for chaffed wires or loose connections.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thank Lil Mags, I've looked through the headlight to include pulling the guts out while it is occurring and that has not located it.

Diamonbird, do you or someone else on here know how I can test the relays without having to buy all 4?
 

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check for pinch wires under the seat and with a flash light look under the rear fender. Here is how to. If they check out good use a hair dryer to warm them up and check again. Heat can cause them to go bad. Auto stores will carrie them.

http://www.ehow.com/how_6136256_do-test-12v-relay_.html
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well, I've tested the relays and went so far as to swap them all around and only the turn signals show being affected... Also figuratively gutted the headlight bucket. Moved every wire I can see to see if it changes the 'short'.

Only after the bike has been running for a little while, will it start. I can either move the bars, or shift the bike slightly and it acts up... While it is acting up, if I cut the kill switch the signals act normal and as soon as I flip the kill switch back they are affected again.

What all systems does the kill switch affect?
 

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Have you tried opening the kill switch and cleaning it?
 

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I would also try cleaning the connectors. DexoIT works really well at cleaning the contacts of connectors.

When a connector contact is rusty/dirty or loose the increased resistance causes more current draw and heat. The extra heat causes more resistance and the cycle can repeat until the circuit is deprived of the voltage it needs to work properly.
 

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This may be a red herring but...

According to my manual wiring diagram my red bike's turn signal ground is spliced into the fuel pump ground.

Now a '12 Cross is not an '07 KP but they do come from the same family. A careful review of your schematic may give you some info that whittles down the possible culprits.
 

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Like I said take hair dryer wam up relays and then check them
 

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Like I said take hair dryer wam up relays and then check them
Wouldn't that break the hair dryer? Use a hammer to wam the relays instead.:ltr:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I have had the battery tested, its good...
Swapped all the relays and the issue does not travel...
While playing with it (toggling kill switch, moving bars back and forth) I had the tach bump itself up to 2k rpm (with the engine off)...

:crzy:

I'm going through the wiring diagram now... I will do my best to locate this gremlin and disembowel him.. :ltr:

Stay tuned... wac
 

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Did we find the problem, yet? If turning the bars affect it, then it sounds like a loose or shorting wire somewhere near the bars and or kill switch. Did you ever take the kill switch apart and look?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Been a while since I've gotten on here. I've been riding with the issue and it is not getting progressively worse, just staying the same.

I did take the bar controls apart (both sides) and cleaned them. While I had the left apart, I soldered the high/low beam switch to allow my low beam to remain on when the high is engaged, for HID lights.

I've noticed that the slightest movement forward or back can cause it or remedy it. I'm going to test this theory in depth when I jack the bike up to get the tires replaced. Figure I'll heat it up, when the problem occurs, I'll jack the bike and test just rear wheel movement effect on the issue...
 

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I thought highly of the post above about the common splice with the fuel pump; it seems to fit the symptoms pretty well.

So would a broken conductor. The copper can break inside the insulation and be a real bear to find.

Hooking up a buzzer type continuity tester (ohmmeter) while wiggling wires can help find problems such as this.
 

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Is your bike storing any codes? IE high and low voltage codes in basically equal numbers accompanied by a third code that should be fuel related and occurring somewhere near twice as often as either of the other two codes? Also, does the battery show proper charge yet startup is sluggish?


Sent from Motorcycle.com App
 

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Did you check the wiring under the rear fender? Quite a few kingpins have torn up the wiring under the fairing after bottoming out the tire to the fender while going over a bump.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Did you check the wiring under the rear fender? Quite a few kingpins have torn up the wiring under the fairing after bottoming out the tire to the fender while going over a bump.
I did check the fender wiring once the wheel was removed and all looks intact. Thanks Tarzan
 
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