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Discussion Starter #1
I added some different front turn signals to my XCT today. The lights are a combination DRL/turn signal in the same housing. The white LEDs are on all the time for DRL, but when the turn signals are activated, the white LEDs turn off and the amber LEDs turn on.

The problem is, my turn signals don't work. The DRLs work fine and the 4-way flashers work fine. But I have no turn signals, front or rear. It's like the turn signal switch has been disconnected.

The horn works, so I know the turn signal fuse and relay are OK, since the turn signals and horn share the same fuse and relay.

Any ideas?
 

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If there is a separate wire for the white lights, have you tried disconnecting it and trying the turn signals?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
If there is a separate wire for the white lights, have you tried disconnecting it and trying the turn signals?
No, because the white lights go out when the 4-way flashers are on.
 

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I'd be calling the mfr and having a chat with them.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It's not just the front lights, the rear turn signals also do not work.
 

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It's not just the front lights, the rear turn signals also do not work.
I understand that the turn signal portion of the victory bikes is seriously lacking in extra capacity.
They stop working if you add additional load to them. Sometimes for good. Not what you want....

I would use a powered trailer adapter to power your new lights, something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-46255-Power-Taillight-Converter/dp/B000CMKG6O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1488769103&sr=8-1&keywords=powered+trailer+light+adapter

They make them in different brands and flavors. Be sure to get one that is LED compatible and call the manufacturer to verify that. Be sure it is for what you have as far as brake lights and turn signals. I just pulled that one up as an example it may not be exactly what you are looking for and not all of them will work with LED lighting. You'll have to do some research. When you find what works do post it as it will help the next guy.

They only look at the turn signals as a signal and take a power wire off the battery with a fuse which they use to actually provide power to the additional lights on a trailer, or in your case your new running light turn signal system.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
With the front turn signals disconnected, the rears still do not work. Do the fronts have to work in order for the rears to work?
 

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With the front turn signals disconnected, the rears still do not work. Do the fronts have to work in order for the rears to work?
Can't help you there. I really don't know. I learned about the problem with overloading the turn signal module from a shop that added lights for police work to Vic's. I had planned on using the trailer module as a work around as I have used them before on sidecar rigs. I see now that it is common practice.

There are people here that have fought with their turn signals after putting on accessory lights.
Your not the first to have this issue.
Sooner or later one of them will read your post and chime in I am sure. They will have answers, I don't even have a guess.
 

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I Added a Trailer Isolator

3+ years ago, I replaced the stock mirrors on my '12 XCT with Rivco mirrors. These have rear-facing red LED turn signals, and front-facing amber LEDs; the front ones stay on as running lights and blink for turn signals.

I thought this would be a trivial matter of tapping into the wires that power the front signals (in addition to providing them with ignition-switched power, for the always-on amber front-facing running-light function).

It turned out not to be trivial, because I gather that the ECM monitors voltage or current or resistance ... and it didn't like whatever it saw, with the additional signals. The combined signals would flash once and stop, or maybe not at all, the same sort of problems that you've experienced.

I ended up adding a trailer isolator, which is just a pre-packaged group of solid-state relays. The Circuit Saver that @shanko noted, or the Hopkins Converter that @Joe_ noted, would accomplish the same thing, it seems to me.

After I finished my project, I did a write-up on my problems and the solution I used, as a DIY-page on my web site, here:

Adding Rivco LED Mirrors to a Victory Cross Country Motorcycle

It's a very long article, because I also discuss some alternative mirrors and some general wiring practices that I've found to be helpful to me over the years.

(Aside: BTW, I had also tried CustomLED's Blinker Genies -- https://www.customled.com/products/blinker-genie -- with and without input from the trailer isolator. I had no success with them on our bikes, although I've read that at least one person got them to work. They may not be a good idea, anyway, for our stock turn signals, because running the stock LEDs as running lights may generate too much heat for the LEDs or their enclosure.)

In any case, good luck with your new turn signals, and keep us posted with your solution.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So, if I'm understanding how the isolator works correctly, the existing turn signal wire is removed from the turn signal and attached to the isolator as a trigger wire, and then a wire is run from the isolator to the turn signal? I would need to do that for both sides and run a wire from the isolator to the battery and a wire from the isolator to ground? Would that be it?

And the uptight computer on the Victory is happy with this?

Thanks for the help, fellows!
 

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Yes

This way anything you add is running on fused power from the battery and your not taking a chance of the bikes computer getting messed up.
 

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So, if I'm understanding how the isolator works correctly, the existing turn signal wire is removed from the turn signal and attached to the isolator as a trigger wire, and then a wire is run from the isolator to the turn signal? I would need to do that for both sides and run a wire from the isolator to the battery and a wire from the isolator to ground? Would that be it?

And the uptight computer on the Victory is happy with this?

Thanks for the help, fellows!
Not necessarily. What you're saying may do the trick, but I believed I used a variation of what you just said.

That is, I'm pretty sure that what I wound up doing is having the stock turn-signal wire pairs still power the stock turn signals. But I also tapped into those wires as inputs for the trailer isolator. And the output from the trailer isolator then powers the added turn signals, i.e., my mirror LEDs.

Put another way, tapping into the stock signal wires and using that tapped power for additional lights pissed off the ECM. But tapping into the stock signal wires and using that tapped power to momentarily trigger relays did not piss off the ECM.

Now, in your case -- substituting new turn signals for the stockers -- I believe that what you are saying will be the correct solution. The question remains, however, whether the ECM will buy this. I think you will be okay, but I am not sure. (Of course, you will need to supply power for the DRL function.)

I think you'll have to find out -- by an actual test -- if the ECM is okay with having the stock wires only trigger relays. My guess is that this will work, but I can't vouch for it from any personal experience, is what I'm saying. But for another $20 - $40 or so, give it a shot.

(Another aside: I am not a fan of adding resistors in-line in these sorts of projects. I know some people resort to that sort of thing, but there's no guarantee that you will be using the correct resistor, and all of them just suck up current and consequently get hot. I don't like that kind of solution in electrical circuits. YMMV, but that's my opinion.)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I contacted Custom Dynamics, which is where the lights came from. I do business with them because they have great products and excellent customer service. They did not disappoint. I received a reply back within 30 minutes. They have a load equalizer specifically for Victory motorcycles and they say that will solve my problem. I have one ordered. I'll post up when I get it installed.
 
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I contacted Custom Dynamics, which is where the lights came from. I do business with them because they have great products and excellent customer service. They did not disappoint. I received a reply back within 30 minutes. They have a load equalizer specifically for Victory motorcycles and they say that will solve my problem. I have one ordered. I'll post up when I get it installed.
Okay, here's hoping this will solve your problem. I have also done a fair amount of business over the years with Custom Dynamics (which I believe is also the overall company behind Custom LED), and, yep, they have good support, good products, etc.

As I mentioned, I'm not a big fan of load equalizers (that particular term escaped me, in a senior moment), but if it works, okay, fine. Make sure you don't place them right next to anything that might not do well with a some extra heat in the vicinity.

Congrats, if this works, and good luck. And if does work: link to whatever you bought?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I installed the equalizer from Custom Dynamics and still no turn signals. So I re-installed the OEM turn signals and now they don't work, front or rear. Hazards work OK. The fuse and relay are OK, since the horn works. It's like the turn signal switch has failed. Any thoughts before I pack it all back up and take it to the dealer?
 

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I installed the equalizer from Custom Dynamics and still no turn signals. So I re-installed the OEM turn signals and now they don't work, front or rear. Hazards work OK. The fuse and relay are OK, since the horn works. It's like the turn signal switch has failed. Any thoughts before I pack it all back up and take it to the dealer?
What's the position of the kill switch? I ask, because the four-way flashers will work when the kill switch is in the kill position, but the turn signals won't (all this with the engine off, of course).
 
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Discussion Starter #20
What's the position of the kill switch? I ask, because the four-way flashers will work when the kill switch is in the kill position, but the turn signals won't (all this with the engine off, of course).
Well, don't I feel like a complete idiot. Thank you! I had no idea that the kill switch had to be on to operate the turn signals. Now everything works! I'll post up the results in a new thread.
 
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