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Discussion Starter #1
My bike has started to die out when i pull up to a light or just about any time I'm stopping. Say I'm pulling up to a light or stop sign i pull
the clutch in to shift to 1st gear and the engine just dies. Before you
ask I'm not blipping the throttle. So my thoughts are maybe a vacuum leak? It don't do it all the time but at least 1 to 3 times when I'm out riding.

Other than that the bike runs great. any ideas? anyone ever have this problem?
 

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pull right cheese wedge and with motor running spray some WD-40 at the FI rubber boots. If idle revs up or bike dies you have air leak.
You did check battery bolts with a wrench to see if there tight.
You'll have to write Rylan at The Vic Shop and ask how to check fuel pump pressure. It should be 50psi no less
 

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Discussion Starter #4
No i haven't checked anything yet. I was out riding all day and when i got home i had some errands to run. I will check all that tomorrow.
As far as the fuel pump go's, it don't make sense to me that it would be bad. I was running 70 to 80 today and it ran great. But you never know, i will check that when i get hold of a pressure gauge. I came across a post a while back about some rubber plugs or caps on the throttle body that go's bad also. I really think it's a vacuum issue.
( I hope ) that would be a easy fix.

Also Thanks for that link on Craigslist. That may come in handy.
 

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fuel pump issue possibly. like vj said. my sons kp had this issue, I guess its common. Lloyd sells a repair kit I believe. its not that the pump isn't working, its that the system doesn't maintain proper psi.
 

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Also check for carbon build up around the throttle body plate. Carbon build up is normal and should be cleaned from time to time. If you see black carbon build up all around the throttle plate, spray a little carb cleaner on it to loosen it up, scrub with a brass wire brush then wipe clean with a shop rag.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the reply's. looks like i have some work to do. I cleaned the
throttle body 2 years ago and haven't put that many miles on sense
then. one thing i will do that i haven't done sense i have owned the bike is changing the fuel filter. I did change the inlet filters last year.
 

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Yes, there are 2 vacuum ports with rubber caps on them that dry rot. I did not see the year of your bike but being a v92 good chance these are bad. I would also suggest cleaning the throttle bodies and check the rubber goose neck that connects the tb to the motor. these can dry rot too. I replaced mine last year as it was showing signs of cracking. Wasn't leaking yet but was just a matter of time especially our bikes are 10 years old ..or better. thumb up
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I think i will pull the tank when i get time. Yesterday i sprayed some carb Cleaner up to the throttle body area and it made no difference
in the idle. Very hard to see anything up in there. Funny thing is it will sit and idle all day, it's when it when it comes down from a higher rpm
when it dies. (sometimes) I will be sure to check them rubber boots and caps when i pull the tank.

Thanks
 

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.. Funny thing is it will sit and idle all day, it's when it when it comes down from a higher rpm
when it dies. (sometimes) I will be sure to check them rubber boots and caps when i pull the tank.

Thanks
.. Thats making me think the vacuum leak may be the culprit as vacuum will increase on decel. If you pull the right side cheese wedge you should be able to find the rubber vacuum caps without pulling the tank. Also be sure to spray around the fuel injectors to check for leaks while the bike is running as the o-rings may be faulty.
 

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Also check for carbon build up around the throttle body plate. Carbon build up is normal and should be cleaned from time to time. If you see black carbon build up all around the throttle plate, spray a little carb cleaner on it to loosen it up, scrub with a brass wire brush then wipe clean with a shop rag.
..May want to rethink the use of a brass brush, you don't want to risk scratching anything around the throttle plates, or a bristle falling off and getting into the motor. A toothbrush would be a better choice.The carbon build-up should clean up pretty easy. I usually use just a cloth and q-tips. Just don't drop them down inside. . Whatever you use obviously make sure it is clean to start with.
 

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..May want to rethink the use of a brass brush, you don't want to risk scratching anything around the throttle plates, or a bristle falling off and getting into the motor. A toothbrush would be a better choice.The carbon build-up should clean up pretty easy. I usually use just a cloth and q-tips. Just don't drop them down inside. . Whatever you use obviously make sure it is clean to start with.
A brass brush is perfectly acceptable for cleaning TB...but what do I know...I'm just an ASE certified tech. ;)
 

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A brass brush is perfectly acceptable for cleaning TB...but what do I know...I'm just an ASE certified tech. ;)
I didn't mean to question your knowledge or abilities. ..I still will stand by my statement as I am sure you would agree that a piece of wire, though brass, still would not be wanted entering the engine.;)
 

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Hey Dan, I see that this post is a few years back but wondering if you ever found out what was causing your bike to stall out? I see my TB nozzles on the outside of the TB have rubber caps that are all dry rotted and falling off.. wonder if this is my problem since I have the same issues you've posted here.
 

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Once you make sure there are no air leaks (decaying throttle body adaptor or vacuum cap-offs) clean the throttle body.


I would suggest a new Throttle body adaptor and new cap-offs on the Vacuum Barbs on the side of the throttle body. Rubber parts do not live more than 10 years.
 

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Replacing the deteriorated rubber vacuum barb cap offs on my TB has pretty much solved my problem... It's much much better when out on the road.. never once stalled on me. The caps I put on were a little loose so I may try to find a diff pair and replace these just to be sure they're sealing tight. And yep, my bike's a 2005 so looks like the 10+ year rule holds true here HC.
 

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I know this is a few months old, but I had an issue with this - went to my local Advance Auto and bought a pack of 6 for like 2.69. Dorman "HELP!" # was 47392. Size was 7/32". Seemed to fit fine, my bike is much happier after putting these on.
 

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Yep seemed to help over all with mine too... however.. the issue didn't completely go away for me. What ended up fixing it was a conversation I had with Scott from Conquest Customs over the phone. He stepped me through the typical things that can cause the stalling but then he asked a simple question.. I know you battery is showing a charge within range however how old is the battery?? I believe it has a stamp or even written in pen on the top saying 2014... I found a coupon on ebay, purchased a new Battery:

Yuasa YUAM320BS Maintenance Free Battery YTX20L-BS

I believe this is an AGM batt and I had a setting on my Harbor freight batt charger for this so I made sure I set that after I filled it with batt juice and gave it the first charge

Ever since I did this the bike has never stalled again; I hear the electronics on Victory's are very sensitive and like a strong charge... going on 6 months with no stalling.
 

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JR_DOG

you said you filled it with battery juice. Do you mean acid?
if so then you have to check it about every 3 to 4 months and add water.
Acid batteries are no good you what jel filed batteries then you never need to check them.

Your setting on the power command 3 could be off thats why the staling. Do you know what numbers there set at
 
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