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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I was riding home today and shifted from 4th to 5th on the highway. It must have gotten stuck between gears or something and it reved real high in "neutral.". I kicked up into 5th and continued on. Then the engine light came on. I got off and stopped for a minute and turned the bike off. Started it back up and the light was off. Stayed off till I got to about 30mph and came back on. Every time I got to a red light it would go off and then back on when I hit 30-40mph. The engine sounds and rides fine Any ideas?

Thanks,
Robb
 

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It seams like the first thing to check is if the battery cables are tight
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It seams like the first thing to check is if the battery cables are tight
Will do. Battery is only a few months old.
Could the high rev on the highway have affected anything?
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Okay. Went to check it. Battery is reading 10.8 with key on but not running. However the bike won't start. Lights go on with key but It won't do anything when attempting to start unless I pull the clutch in even tho it's in neutral. When attempting to start it makes all kinds of buzzing/clicking but won't turn over. Lights go dim as well.
 

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Okay. Went to check it. Battery is reading 10.8 with key on but not running. However the bike won't start. Lights go on with key but It won't do anything when attempting to start unless I pull the clutch in even tho it's in neutral. When attempting to start it makes all kinds of buzzing/clicking but won't turn over. Lights go dim as well.
How tight are the battery connections?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
How tight are the battery connections?
Tight.
It's on a charger now. I'm gonna let it charge up and see if it will start then check the voltage while running and revving. Kevin mentioned that it might be the voltage regulator.
 

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Tight.
It's on a charger now. I'm gonna let it charge up and see if it will start then check the voltage while running and revving. Kevin mentioned that it might be the voltage regulator.
If you get it to start, it should read above 14V as soon as the motor starts running.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
If you get it to start, it should read above 14V as soon as the motor starts running.
Thanks. He said if its over 15v then the regulator is shot. Frying the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Charged about 3 hours. Took it off and turned on key. Showed 11.9. Started bike successfully and showed 14.0 at idle and 15.1 when revved.
 

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Charged about 3 hours. Took it off and turned on key. Showed 11.9. Started bike successfully and showed 14.0 at idle and 15.1 when revved.
Your base voltage is 11.9 V based on your measurement. Upon turning the engine on, and letting it idle (zero throttle), your reading should go up between 0.5 V and 2.0 V - so, based on the 11.9 V value you recorded, you should now read a value between 12.4 V and 13.9 V. Based on that, your voltage regulator is most likely fine.

To tell for sure, measure the voltage at idle by bypassing the voltage regulator (using a short jump wire), and see if you're within the 0.5 V and 2.0 V range above the base voltage. If you're in the range, you're voltage regulator is 100% healty.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Your base voltage is 11.9 V based on your measurement. Upon turning the engine on, and letting it idle (zero throttle), your reading should go up between 0.5 V and 2.0 V - so, based on the 11.9 V value you recorded, you should now read a value between 12.4 V and 13.9 V. Based on that, your voltage regulator is most likely fine.

To tell for sure, measure the voltage at idle by bypassing the voltage regulator (using a short jump wire), and see if you're within the 0.5 V and 2.0 V range above the base voltage. If you're in the range, you're voltage regulator is 100% healty.
Any idea what else it could be?
 

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I would suggest checking for a voltage leak, though it could be a bad battery, even though it's almost new - is it an OEM battery?

Here's one easy overnight test to see if the battery's gone weak. Check to see what the battery voltage reading is. If it's not in the 12.4-12.8 volt range, charge it on a slow charge until it's in this range. Then disconnect all the cables from the battery, and let it sit overnight.

Check the voltage again in the morning. Don't connect the battery cables, just use your meter. If the voltage is still in the proper range, chances are the battery is still good. If it's dropped substantially, it might be going bad. If it's dropped, I would suggest a trip to your local auto parts store and having them run a load test on the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Okay. Now that battery has a full charge I think it's the regulator. It showed 12.8 with key on, 14.6 at idle, and went 17+ when I revved it. After rev it was reading around 16 at idle and engine light came on. Also when I shut it down I could hear noise coming from the battery, a liquid like boiling sound. I'm assuming it's gonna be new battery, new regulator, and labor. What kind of price am I looking at if it's not still under warranty? And is it safe to ride it to the dealer?
 

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Yes, sounds like you need a new voltage regulator. I suggest doing the work yourself as it's a simple swap. I would not ride it to the dealer. You need Vic part no. 4012240 (black) or 4012241 (silver). You should see the voltage regulator and access it easily from underneath the bike (at least on mine it is there). Or see service manual if you have one handy. It's only two screws to replace it.

The battery might still be good, so I would only replace the regulator for now.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
It's actually still under warranty. Would this be covered?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
My friend is gonna bring his trailer by Monday or Tuesday.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Finally got my buddy's trailer and got it to the dealer this morning. They said they'll get to it today or tomorrow.
 
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