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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2013 XCT Engine when first started idles OK. A few minutes of running and the idle will sometimes drop off and actually stall out. It has done this a few times at stop lights. Also while running down the road at between 2200 and 2700 rpm it feels as though it has a surge. I just replaced the IAC motor and have yet to test ride it. But intial start up after resetting procedure I dont think it fixed anything. Kind of at an impasse. I have dont the spray around intake tubes and no RPM change.
 

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Could be bad gas. How long has this been going on? I know you've had Vic's long enough to know the battery terminals should be cleaned and put back together; not just tested for tightness. A weak battery may also be causing this. 12.5v static and 13.5+v idling. Normally a bad cell with weak amps will show up as a slow starter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Changed fuel filter probably 3 years ago. Problem has been maybe last 6 months to outside a year. Had battery out, and new circuit breaker installed shortly after this started. I figured if I had battery out to test and check leads 8 bucks for the breaker was good insurance. Pulled grill of the other day to confirm leads are tight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Sensor usually work or not. What flasher unit and are we talking eng cover or triangle job by seat? Whats it go to?
 

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Sensor usually work or not. What flasher unit and are we talking eng cover or triangle job by seat? Whats it go to?
Sometimes it's a simple connection that just barely connects then it doesn't for a second. Sometime unplugging and plugging back in all the connectors you can find will break up the corrosion. You can do one at a time and check or all at one time or a few. Whatever you think is best for you.
 

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  • Confirm you idle rpm's are correct after warm up.
  • Check the air filter for dirty or damp.
  • Run a couple of tanks of gas with good quality injector cleaner and gas line antifreeze through the bike.
  • Replace the spark plugs.
  • Check the spark plug wires for cracks and make sure both ends are on tight. No Corrosion.
  • Awkward on your bike but on mine, I'd connect a meter to the battery and watch the volts during the ride and when it bogs down. A faulty regulator can fluctuate.

If everything appears fine and the problem still occurs I'd be doing the easy basic stuff first. Double checking all the connections and cleaning them with a wire brush. Not all corrosion is visible and can cause intermittent troubles. Something I do to the battery at the start of the riding season and as part of a routine at an oil change.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Gas is fresh might near every week. I run seafoam thrue about every 6 weeks or so. Runs OK at higher rpm like taking off from stop. So not likely an air restriction as it runs fine under power.
 

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Gas is fresh might near every week. I run seafoam thrue about every 6 weeks or so. Runs OK at higher rpm like taking off from stop. So not likely an air restriction as it runs fine under power.
Well I'm all out of Internet ideas. A hands on check by a good Victory mechanic might be the answer.
 

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Check the spaghetti hoses going to IAC for cracks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I replaced the circuit breaker when it first started not running well. I suppose I could have got a dud. I'll check it and charge voltage, but I would think by now if the alternator was not charging I would have had a dead battery.
 

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If the circuit breaker was faulty I'd think it would miss or more than likely cut out totally. If one output feed of the rectifier is bad or the regulator is faulty either will cause charging problems at low revs because running the bike and lights takes priority and is drawing off what it needs. The lower revs will not be supplying the power needed to do both so you'll get bogging down and lights dimming. Revving it back up could provide enough to partially charge the battery. Neither would last long.

Not a mechanic so I could be way off base but in any case, with troubleshooting always start with the basics so you've got a solid point to start on. Just my 2¢
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I have worked on my own stuff for years. Matter of fact I assistant instruct an auto tech class. Thats part of why I feel so stumped. One time I run it thru my head and I think electrical, then another I go with fuel. I lean to fuel because of the rpm flux instead of actually shut off until at idle it fluctuates so much it cant recover
 

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Mine has acted similarly a few times over the years. In each case, after doing all the usual stuff, a new battery fixed it. I believe if the battery can't maintain a voltage that will keep the IAC functioning during the start-up, this is the result. You can look at the volts gauge while you do a cold start and see how low it gets. It only takes an instant for the IAC to lose its settings. Maybe someone knows the threshold voltage.
 

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Can confirm battery was issue with mine.
Bike would barely run, very rough trying to idle.
Bike would die on me.
Starting bike drained battery down to low voltage and had to rev it high for several minutes to overcome the weak battery and get enough voltage for proper idle.
Almost left me stranded 3 hours from home.

Your volt meter on dash should read high immediately after you start the bike.
If it's hanging on the low voltage side you might have a broken battery.
At least new batteries are cheap to try.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
My last battery was over $110. Not cheap in my book. But have an idea to prove out theory. But volt meter stays about same place it always has.
 
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Not sure where battery cost that much.

I've been told you take them to auto parts store and do AUTO test on it and it will show if it's failing. The light duty standard test won't show issues.
Just what I've been told haven't tried it myself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·

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Please do NOT use one of these. The concept and idea is good but the design is not. I just removed one from my 4Runner because it kept making a bad connection then it just fell off the terminal. I deleted it from the vehicle permanently. If you're looking at one for your car you might try one of the better designs.

I've got one of these on order so hopefully I won't have the same kind of issues I had with the first type.

 
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