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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2013 XCT Engine when first started idles OK. A few minutes of running and the idle will sometimes drop off and actually stall out. It has done this a few times at stop lights. Also while running down the road at between 2200 and 2700 rpm it feels as though it has a surge. I just replaced the IAC motor and have yet to test ride it. But intial start up after resetting procedure I dont think it fixed anything. Kind of at an impasse. I have dont the spray around intake tubes and no RPM change.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Changed fuel filter probably 3 years ago. Problem has been maybe last 6 months to outside a year. Had battery out, and new circuit breaker installed shortly after this started. I figured if I had battery out to test and check leads 8 bucks for the breaker was good insurance. Pulled grill of the other day to confirm leads are tight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Sensor usually work or not. What flasher unit and are we talking eng cover or triangle job by seat? Whats it go to?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Gas is fresh might near every week. I run seafoam thrue about every 6 weeks or so. Runs OK at higher rpm like taking off from stop. So not likely an air restriction as it runs fine under power.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I replaced the circuit breaker when it first started not running well. I suppose I could have got a dud. I'll check it and charge voltage, but I would think by now if the alternator was not charging I would have had a dead battery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I have worked on my own stuff for years. Matter of fact I assistant instruct an auto tech class. Thats part of why I feel so stumped. One time I run it thru my head and I think electrical, then another I go with fuel. I lean to fuel because of the rpm flux instead of actually shut off until at idle it fluctuates so much it cant recover
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
My last battery was over $110. Not cheap in my book. But have an idea to prove out theory. But volt meter stays about same place it always has.
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
We have a couple we use at school for troubleshooting. No problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Well took bike to my work today and put it on the Midtronics charging system tester. Battery voltage a little low @ 12.3 or 12.4. But when it ran the test it failed. "Battery health" was like a2 or 3 out of 10, voltage side was for most part OK after a charge. So lucky for me our parts supplier had a Die Hard (not my choice but its what they had) to fit in stock. And only $115 list, glad I got the company discount and cashed out for $80. Bike never acted slow to start or wavered like battery bad. Took for short ride in neighborhood after change and I'm undecided. I think the 2500 rpm thing straightned out, but the idle seemed good until I pulled in drive. Then it kind of sounded low. Couple days will tell.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
So had bike out for a long ride today. Seemed to be OK first 100-150 miles. Then went to start and had pops and stalled. Never idled after that. I did the reset for the IAC and still no dice. Had to ride 3.5 hours home thru traffic that when stopped I had to hold throttle up to 1500 rpm to keep running. Dang did it get hot. So I dunno. Guess next is pull the tank and inspect air lines, from there I'm stumped.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Going to pull tank next chance i get as we are busy moving and packing. Plug wires i went out other nite in dark garage and fired up. No tracers I could see. Wires and coils "normally" if bad fail under load and higher rpm/demand.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Pulled tank today. Did some pin out work and OHM check TPS. All the tubes, fittings & lines etc to IAC look fine and are connected. I do not have a digital wrench to run the voltage check on the MAP, but I am leaning towards that could be the culprit. Following the victory service manual I think thats where its leading. But I dont want to be just throwing cash at things.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Hope your luck is better than mine
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Brandy new IAC, Brandy new Battery. Next up shoot wires for MAP and see if I can sneak a back probe in MAP to get voltage out put. I have reset the IAC 3 or 4 times, no dice on any better operation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
No tuner. Everything OEM, well except mufflers They are the Jones glas packs installed in the OEM tubes. Preformed every test for IAC (plus its new) TPS and MAP sensors. Tested all wires connected to those devices per the shop manual. All good. Battery New and 12.7vdc key off 12.2 key on engine off. Engine on charge @ 14.7, AC voltage across battery running switches from 0 to about 19vac. Voltage drop battery ground to chassis ground around 10-12mv and a little less on positive to like the circuit breaker both sides. Not positve on those as they were way less than a volt so I skipped writing it down. Put it all back together and took for a 10 min or so ride and it seems OK. But it did before too.
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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Yea no tuner. I really dont care for them. I feel as thought the bike has way more power than I need. I tried for about 6-8 months to run it with O2 sensors disconnected to richen it up to run a little cooler. But didnt feel as though it was doing that so I hooked them back up. I was kind of think also unplug and replug maybe it reset connection or something. I always hated a CND.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
ARGH Its back. Has ran fine for a week or so. Today on way home started this dying at idle thing again. I did the IAC reset and it seems to be OK for a little while. Almost like it somehow losses its setting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Ran the full shop manual diagnostics. Refernce voltage good @ IAC, TPS. OHM wires to both from ECM . I had same thought. Only other thing and it checked OK is charging. Although it did show a a/c voltage flux of .2 or something. I forget I have the sheet at office. I have been thinking maybe throw the 35 bucks at a volt regulator. If its an ecm I think Im screwed. Probably looking at close to 800-1000 bucks by time you find a Indian dealer that wil/can do it and parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Agreed ECM is usually the lasthing in TS scenario. No rubs uou can see all wires look good and tight in connectors. OH yea and checked out the MAS sensor too. If it has to do with running I have ran the test except coils, but they normally puke when hat and under load, which is almost oposite of what this is doing.
 
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