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Not sure where battery cost that much.

I've been told you take them to auto parts store and do AUTO test on it and it will show if it's failing. The light duty standard test won't show issues.
Just what I've been told haven't tried it myself.
That's cheap, try buying a good bike battery in Australia..
Oh and we currently paying almost $8 a gallon for premium gasoline.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
We have a couple we use at school for troubleshooting. No problems.
 

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We have a couple we use at school for troubleshooting. No problems.
If you're responding to me; I also have one in my Jeep I'll be replacing. Avoidable breakdowns are no fun.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Well took bike to my work today and put it on the Midtronics charging system tester. Battery voltage a little low @ 12.3 or 12.4. But when it ran the test it failed. "Battery health" was like a2 or 3 out of 10, voltage side was for most part OK after a charge. So lucky for me our parts supplier had a Die Hard (not my choice but its what they had) to fit in stock. And only $115 list, glad I got the company discount and cashed out for $80. Bike never acted slow to start or wavered like battery bad. Took for short ride in neighborhood after change and I'm undecided. I think the 2500 rpm thing straightned out, but the idle seemed good until I pulled in drive. Then it kind of sounded low. Couple days will tell.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
So had bike out for a long ride today. Seemed to be OK first 100-150 miles. Then went to start and had pops and stalled. Never idled after that. I did the reset for the IAC and still no dice. Had to ride 3.5 hours home thru traffic that when stopped I had to hold throttle up to 1500 rpm to keep running. Dang did it get hot. So I dunno. Guess next is pull the tank and inspect air lines, from there I'm stumped.
 

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One solution that was suggested by “53canuck” that you hadn’t responded to was the spark plug wires. A random arc to ground on the engine (at random rpm’s) due to a faulty wire was a problem I had that baffled me for a while until I replaced the spark plug wires. At least that solved my issue.
 

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Never did say if you checked all the tubes going into IAC for cracks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Going to pull tank next chance i get as we are busy moving and packing. Plug wires i went out other nite in dark garage and fired up. No tracers I could see. Wires and coils "normally" if bad fail under load and higher rpm/demand.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Pulled tank today. Did some pin out work and OHM check TPS. All the tubes, fittings & lines etc to IAC look fine and are connected. I do not have a digital wrench to run the voltage check on the MAP, but I am leaning towards that could be the culprit. Following the victory service manual I think thats where its leading. But I dont want to be just throwing cash at things.
 

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Strange, but today, this morning, my XCT did the same thing. I have a new battery. I will install it tomorrow, and the problem will be fixed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Hope your luck is better than mine
 

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Please do NOT use one of these. The concept and idea is good but the design is not. I just removed one from my 4Runner because it kept making a bad connection then it just fell off the terminal. I deleted it from the vehicle permanently. If you're looking at one for your car you might try one of the better designs.

I've got one of these on order so hopefully I won't have the same kind of issues I had with the first type.

Had same issue you had Bob with the first style. They are made of brass plated zinc alloy. Fail quite quickly, waste of labor to install them.
 
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wonder if your loosing a regulator?
I have absolutely nothing to back that up.
However since Vic’s are so persnickety about batteries and electrics perhaps the are sensitive to transients too? Maybe throw a scope on it if you have access. Not sure what a baseline would be.

Another thought is to run a temporary secondary ground wire from the ecm ground to the negative terminal of the battery to see if any thing changes.
You could also measure on DC if there is any voltage present between the ecm ground and the negative terminal of the battery. Perhaps any other ground points the harness or sensors might see that are accessible.
Maybe pull a couple of the ground screws, check for corrosion between the aluminum frame and plated screw.

Might give you an indication if you have an issue with the ground side of the electrical system that is giving you fits . Again a shot in the dark, if you’re out of ideas.
Could be a sensor failing too. Might look at that map sensor and see if it is just a standard auto part. They aren’t generally very expensive if they can be bought from the auto parts store.
 

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As I previously mentioned, putting a volt meter on the battery and running the leads up to a point you can see what's going on with the battery while you're riding and experiencing the problem would give you evidence if the source is a power trouble or not. If it isn't then you can move on to other things but until each possibility is eliminated you're not going to get very far.
 

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The battery fixed mine.
Your description sounds like the result of the IAC losing its setting. This happens while starting if the supply voltage gets a little low. If you're sure of your battery, I might look at the starter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Brandy new IAC, Brandy new Battery. Next up shoot wires for MAP and see if I can sneak a back probe in MAP to get voltage out put. I have reset the IAC 3 or 4 times, no dice on any better operation.
 

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Hope you get it figured out soon. Be useful info for the rest of us.
 

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Brandy new IAC, Brandy new Battery. Next up shoot wires for MAP and see if I can sneak a back probe in MAP to get voltage out put. I have reset the IAC 3 or 4 times, no dice on any better operation.
What kind of tuner are you running?
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
No tuner. Everything OEM, well except mufflers They are the Jones glas packs installed in the OEM tubes. Preformed every test for IAC (plus its new) TPS and MAP sensors. Tested all wires connected to those devices per the shop manual. All good. Battery New and 12.7vdc key off 12.2 key on engine off. Engine on charge @ 14.7, AC voltage across battery running switches from 0 to about 19vac. Voltage drop battery ground to chassis ground around 10-12mv and a little less on positive to like the circuit breaker both sides. Not positve on those as they were way less than a volt so I skipped writing it down. Put it all back together and took for a 10 min or so ride and it seems OK. But it did before too.
Smile Art Font Circle Happy
 
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