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Discussion Starter · #81 ·
Soo. Seller ran diag on my "new" IAC and said yup its bad. Nothing about hey your new one is on the way or a replacement. They did refund my $40 or so bucks. But when I went looking for a "new" valve to put on I see they have ad selling parts and the IAC they have listed now is $80 bucks. So I did find a replacement a NOS job, belive it or not it is also used on one of the Razors. Anywho new valve is on and so far has run fine a half dozen or so days back and forth to work 60+ miles round trip.
So to sum it up, New battery, 2 new regulators (one was faulty and OEM gave AC volt fluxs enough charge system machine flagged it) 2 new IAC one was faulty. Aint that some kind of luck. But it runs fine now.
 
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Soo. Seller ran diag on my "new" IAC and said yup its bad. Nothing about hey your new one is on the way or a replacement. They did refund my $40 or so bucks. But when I went looking for a "new" valve to put on I see they have ad selling parts and the IAC they have listed now is $80 bucks. So I did find a replacement a NOS job, belive it or not it is also used on one of the Razors. Anywho new valve is on and so far has run fine a half dozen or so days back and forth to work 60+ miles round trip.
So to sum it up, New battery, 2 new regulators (one was faulty and OEM gave AC volt fluxs enough charge system machine flagged it) 2 new IAC one was faulty. Aint that some kind of luck. But it runs fine now.
That’s awesome. Sometimes it goes like that. Especially when you are attempting to fix a black box computer driven system blind. Nice troubleshooting.
What matters is it’s fixed in time to ride it next season. Congratulations!
 

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Discussion Starter · #83 ·
I was loosing faith in my 40+ years of experience. I dont think I did any test or looked at anything once. Everything got atleast 2 checks to confirm test.
 
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I thought few pages ago we thought the new IAC was bad. That sucks to be true though. Glad you got it all fixed up. Good thread here for future reference when someone else has the issue come up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #85 ·
I did receive a "new" IAC that was bad. Replaced it with another new one and now good to go.
 
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I did receive a "new" IAC that was bad. Replaced it with another new one and now good to go.
YAY............
 

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Discussion Starter · #87 ·

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Discussion Starter · #88 ·
Well I hate to continue this old thread, but maybe someone will look again. the Idle problem is fixed. IAC did the job. A few weeks back bike would run and cut straight out for a couple seconds, then dash lights flashed and bike came back to life. then ride a few days it may or may not happen. No pattern. then finally Monday it did it four or five times on way home and now it completely whacked. Will run a minute or so then shuts off. You can hear relays and fuel pump run, lights flash relays click. If I turn key off and cycle it will start again and die in a minute or so and same dance. So I am thinking ECM. I can not find a complete wiring diagram in the shop manual only bits and pieces of systems. But I understand for some reason these jokers wired the ignition system into a turn signal flasher unit? Really? Vic Stall out.mp4
 

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Discussion Starter · #90 ·
I don't want to assume, so, you've checked all the power related connections that are the usual suspects??
At least 4 times. Today I thought maybe the RR was maybe at fault so disconnected and had battery from my truck (not running) connected with jump cables just for consistent voltage. Same thing. Researching now if I got a used ECM does it have to go to dealer to reset vin etc. Does not look like it if I stay with 2010 up. But where is mileage stored I wonder.
 

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That's some serious electrical WTF going on there...

You try pulling every fuse that isn't needed to run motor?
 

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Sounds like a short was developing. Now it is more solid. Maybe a pinched wire. One of the smaller circuit breakers in the fuse box might be cycling.

It sounds to me like this is what is happening. It’s a guess of course.
A wire is pinched or pulled tight on a sharp edge and pushes through the warm insulation shorting. That Trips the breaker. Bike shuts down. Breaker resets and current inrush blows the connection, the few strands of wire actually in contact with the chassis clear.

Bike restarts. Bike continues ride. Movement of chassis moves wire and shorts again tripping breaker, repeat. That sort of thing.
In all your previous troubleshooting you may have moved something to a position where it is against a sharp edge or pinched. You might have had something come up from the road also.
That’s my thoughts.. Handle bar controls if you’ve been in there. Rear fender wiring where it gets near the wheel. Fairing. Under the tank. Under seat . Etc
 
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Discussion Starter · #93 ·
Well I kind of threw in the towel. I pulled the crank sensor out an Ohm that wiring, all is good. I found a used PCM and ordered it. I sure hope its plug and play.
 

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Should run but might not run 100% same.
Victory had several different tunes for these bikes.
I ran mine with a tune off another 106 and it ran but the timing map was all different so it didn't feel the same. I didn't keep it like that long. It might have been fine but I started from scratch maybe just was overthinking it. The Maximus I've been told trashes all the factory tunes in favor of something generic to start tuning. So it probably doesn't matter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #95 ·
Well if the ECM is tru to the picture they have on listing, the part numbers all match mine. So I would think it is same dynamics. 🤞
 

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Should be fine I just hope that is the fix for you. Really rare for a bike ECU to go out so bad luck if that is the cause.
 

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Discussion Starter · #97 ·
Nope. Not ecu, not ignition switch either. I jumped it. Next up
 

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Just blue-skying here but I think with the ECM, even with the same part number, unless you know you're getting one off of the same model and the same year, you're going to need it reflashed for the engine it's going on. A 106 is not all 106's. The touring bikes had different engine setups earlier than the steel frames and were packing more hp. Even within the same family I don't believe I could simply swap an ECM from a one year earlier KP into mine and have it run the same because the cams are different which would/could effect a couple of the downstream processes. I'm guessing but it seems right. A call to one of the gurus still working on the Vic's might confirm if I'm out to lunch on that.
 

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I touched on that above that multiple XC same year have slightly different tunes. It's a Polaris thing even on Indians. From the last post though I think they are saying that even the ECM swap didn't fix it and issue still occurs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #100 ·
It came off same year and model, even part # is same. Didn't fix it. Nor did bypass ignition swtch. Pulled fairing cover and will have to look in that heap of wires next.
 
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