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Discussion Starter · #121 ·
Yea I was wondering the same on the digital ground. I will try to figure out where I went wrong or maybe point you to what I am looking at. I'm ready to set it on fire or scrap it.
 

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I tried to look up digital ground online and I'm still little confused. Mixing digital ground and normal ground could cause issues is what I got out of it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #123 ·
OK I found what I was looking for in the diagram. It is in the headlight splice (low beam) Headlight splice-HDLGH 6 ye/pk, it goes over to RTSPWR 1. IF I read that right thats a speaker power.
 

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RTSPWR is right turn signal in several places.
LTSPWR is left turn signal.

RT (right)
S (signal)
PWR (power)

All keeps leading back to flasher or some bad connections on the way there. Have you tried running bike without the flasher connected?
 

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Discussion Starter · #125 ·
It will not run without flasher. Because some genius has the ignition wired thru it. Has a power signal in and out. I have not explored if its 12v in and say 5 or 7 or whatever out.
 
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Theoretically you could use a single grounding system but in practice it's not feasible and for lots of reasons they should be kept separate on modern items with sensors and digital voltage levels.

Did you try holding in the clutch?

Go to 4:50. Also they were talking about poor running earlier.

 

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Discussion Starter · #127 ·
So I ran the CPS test yesterday. It says should have 2-5 VAC with plugs out, grounded and roll it over. I got 1.3 VAC. Funny thing though unless I miss read the instructions it says set up just as OHM out the CPS. So disconnect the ECM plug and pin 57 to 58 to get reading. SO OK I get that. But why bother to ground plugs once you pull them if ECM is discon because coils wont get fire anyway.
 

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@djh3 Manual says the cps on it's own can be tested first either at the wiring for the sensor or pins 57 and 58. Spec of the sensor is listed at 280Ω. The second part is done at the pins so that's why they gave the option of starting there first.

A big "I think" because I'm only guessing. The voltage required to jump the gap in a spark plug is much higher than if you simply ground the electrode. The resultant voltage will be so low and fast that a digital meter may be too slow to even register it. The manual says any movement at all is good and I'm sure you'd get a better indication with a cheap meter with a needle. If that is the case then removing the plugs and grounding the electrode as they indicate will give a much easier path to ground and the digital meter would trigger on the current and you'd see the 2 - 5 volts listed.

Again, I'm guessing from what I'm reading.
 

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Discussion Starter · #129 ·
My question on their test is, if the ECU is disconnected how would the coil even fire. It's not connected.
 

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Sorry, you lost me here. I thought you were testing the cps strictly to see if it had the proper load and that there was a signal being generated into the ECU. It's simple a trigger which is upstream from the coil firing sequence. I think the ecu then transfers that as a ground signal to the coil causing it to build the charge and fire the plug. Pin 3 and 4.

Apologies if I got you off track. I'll just go back and sit and watch for awhile.
 

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Discussion Starter · #131 ·
Naw Just following the T/S guide. The way I read it while set up to check out CPS see what voltage you get on pin 57 n 58. Should be between 2 n 5 ac with plugs out. Mine is just over 1vac. So my ponder is why ground plug if nothing is connected? Possibly just a safety incase thing? Or I completely missed something and was supposed to connect and test from different point. I'm betting $110 + shipping I got it rite.
 

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Discussion Starter · #132 ·
My CPS got here Thursday and I got it in yesterday evening. Got bike around neighborhood today some and all seems good. This is only the second time I can ever remember of this type sensor going bad what would seem intermittent before complete failure. Monday I'm going to brave it to work with it.
 

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I guess I got lost what is CPS?

Glad you might finally have a solution. Hopefully you kept all the parts you swapped out since they might still be good.
 

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Cam Positioning Sensor.

And if it was me I'd be doing a bunch of riding today to make sure so I don't get stranded on a more important day like a work day and in traffic. Odd for a sensor of this type to go bad in that way.

I'd also be curious to know if the voltage measurement is taken on the replacement.
 

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Agree it being odd but everything has a failure rate.
It seems they might be in the unlucky 1%.
 

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Discussion Starter · #136 ·
Well damn it. Ran fine Saturday for 20 30 min. No miss steady idle. Leave for work and it shuts off at traffic light. Arghhhh Everytime it seems I find what should be a solution, I get bit.
 

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Man that sucks.
 

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FFS ! This is getting nuts.

Sorry but I don't recall and the history is too long to read - Have you checked the blink codes to give you a general idea where the fault might be?
 

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Discussion Starter · #139 ·
That's part of the problem. Flying blind. No codes, no blink or error codes. Just shuts off and will restart. I really dont know what way to go next.
 

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Dealer?
Vic shop?
 
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