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Discussion Starter · #141 ·
$155 an hour at daytona indian which use to be a Victory dealer once upon a time. But about 8 hour of shop time, I might as well set it on fire.
 

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Definitely a mystery and probably something simple hiding in plain sight.

Have you already ruled out the fuel pump/filter?
If it's random something in tank or loose connection cutting fuel off. Maybe.
 

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You've gone through the blink code sequence and there's nothing indicating a control circuit experiencing a problem? Without an error code recorded it's like it's just shutting off and if that's the case I'd be going back to the basic power circuits. (and that damned relay)

At this point I'd be giving Rylan at the Vic shop a call or trailering it to the closest dealer that still has a digital wrench. Some of the Indian dealers might even be willing to help and with the digital wrench I'd think it would be a quick process with the error codes they get. The way m̶e̶c̶h̶a̶n̶i̶c̶s̶ techs are these days though if the test gear doesn't tell them what to do they're lost.

I've nothing else to suggest at this point but please keep us up to date on your actions and any progress.

Good luck bud.
 

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Discussion Starter · #144 ·
Doubtful fuel, as gauges and dash go off and come back so the speak. If was fuel would die out lean. This is like you pull the plug shut off. I'm going to investigate the turn signal flasher, but I have to find som give a s#it attitude first.
 
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I have to say this is a nagging fear in the back of my mind that a failure I can't find takes the bike off the road and pretty much makes it worthless. No Victory support with the Digital Wrench around and a dwindling supply of critical parts. I don't think about it often and it totally goes away when I get on the bike and still smile every time. Oh well. Life goes on.
 

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I have to say this is a nagging fear in the back of my mind that a failure I can't find takes the bike off the road and pretty much makes it worthless. No Victory support with the Digital Wrench around and a dwindling supply of critical parts. I don't think about it often and it totally goes away when I get on the bike and still smile every time. Oh well. Life goes on.
Digital wrench still works it's the dealer labor that is the issue. Supposedly some high end OBD code readers can read codes off the bikes from what I've seen in old posts.

The 40 amp breaker thing was replaced correct?
Power comes off that to radio, 12v plugs, ABS, and fuse box.

Little off topic now.
One thing I find odd with our bikes the radio is powered directly off the 40 amp breaker. Can have a wire direct short to ground if it rubbed through before fuse they put inside fairing and I'm not sure that would even trip the breaker. Should get the magic smoke though. 🤷‍♂️
Same for the ABS at back of bike. Fuse is at rear of bike right on the ABS unit. Long way for power to travel without fuse.
I have always read fuses should be within 6-8 inches of your power source.
 

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Discussion Starter · #147 ·
Here is a crazy thing that just started. Related? I dunno. But when you turn key on there is a faint buzz kind of noise from under the fairing. I pulled it today thinking it might be one of the relay's I have under there for lights and horn. Nope sounds more like from dash. But I disconnected plug I see for dash and still get same noise. Faint buzz kind of thing. Think the old annoying seat belt buzzer but maybe 4 seconds and faint.
 

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Radio maybe?
Or is your added horn in the fairing?
The radio has constant power as mentioned with the fuse poorly placed inside fairing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #149 ·
Yes wolo bad boy under fairing. But I doubt that's it. Lay hand on all relays, horn, dash etc and cant feel anything energized. Pulled the couple wired in relays and still have noise. Bike is possessed.
On the running side of 5his mess, I think I'm going to revisit the 20a main breaker.
 

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If Daytona Indian is close at hand talk to them. Ask if they will throw it on the Digital Wrench tell them that's all you want; nothing more. An analysis of the problem, what's wrong, and a repair estimate if they do the work. I would think it should be their one hour minimum and give you a direction to take. You'd be miles ahead of where you are now. Hell, they may find it's something with minimal labour and worth the additional minutes to repair for you.

As for locating the buzz, get a young relative or neighbourhood kid to listen for it. They hear much better an may be able to point you right at it. (experience)
 

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Discussion Starter · #151 ·
As an "Oh well what have I got to lose" I'm gonna change the 40a breaker by battery.
 

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Didn't you do that already?
 

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Discussion Starter · #153 ·
I looked in tool box. I have about 2 or 3 in there. One is the OEM I changed because I read they were junk. Cant tell you why I have the others, probably when I had the IAC issue or when the voltage regulator was going out. I dont think I have changed it since I changed the voltage regulator. Picked one up today like 8 bucks.
 

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If it makes you feel better I'm not riding either. Battery dies from radio issues. Haven't had time to open fairing and work on it. 😕
 

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I'm riding to work. Can't get the issue to happen consistently.

I hope @djh3 had success with his bike.
 

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@IndyVictory Might it just be your radio is drawing more power than available? A weakened regulator or battery may not be able to provide enough power when rpm's are low. Stop and go traffic would cause problems that wouldn't be noticeable at higher rpm riding like on the highway. At low rpm's you'd be draining the battery then possibly not running at higher output long enough to recharge the battery. Easy stuff to check with a meter.
 

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@IndyVictory Might it just be your radio is drawing more power than available? A weakened regulator or battery may not be able to provide enough power when rpm's are low. Stop and go traffic would cause problems that wouldn't be noticeable at higher rpm riding like on the highway. At low rpm's you'd be draining the battery then possibly not running at higher output long enough to recharge the battery. Easy stuff to check with a meter.
Let's not derail his thread with it. It's flashing display with the key off after riding.
Only 3 posts on the issue between both forums for all the years one on a Vision two on a CC and all said replace radio to fix or wire all the constant power to switch.
It is very random when it happens and will usually stop after few minutes but recently it did it for two days straight until battery was ran down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #159 ·
OK Been on a week or so "test ride". So far so good. Me thinks lucky me I had a couple things go Ka-put same time. Any who here goes. I believe the engine misfire' die thing was the CPS. It would idle @ 1000 RPM then loose a few RPM and once got to about 800 it would die. Once changed the CPS idle was steady and then just do the flash dash thing. So after some pondering and thought and spitballing with a friend, I decided to replace the circuit breaker. Also when I bought the CPS I ordered a pair of plugs, and charged the battery while I had things apart. So all is good. Best thought I had was months back I had a charging issue. Replaced the RR and new one charged @ 18+v. caused the check engine light to come on. Changed RR and I'm trying to remember but I think it was not long after that the intermittent shut off thin started. So possibly the overcharging event weakened the CB? SO parts replaced CPS, 40a CB, battery, spark plugs. IndyVictory on your deal have you made a post yet to throw ideas around?
 

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I'd give it another week to see if it's really really fixed.
Really hope you got it tackled for good. :)
 
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