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I took the plunge and modified the factory pipes on my bike by removing the baffles. It sounds great but had a little popping with shifting. So I was advised to have Lloyds install their fuel controller, high performance air filter and IAV and disconnect the 02 sensors. I went to Myrtle Beach when they were there and had this completed and ran across the dyno. All was good but on my trip back to NC the popping was still there. I sent Lloyds an email and have yet to hear from them. So much for their great work and customer service. Any suggestions for the problem? Maybe install baffled pipes? If so, what suggestions do any of you have. I don't want loud pipes but a good deep sound.
 

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I had some popping but virtually eliminated it by taking everything off and running a Stg 1 flash, nascar6 pipes, Llyodz air filter and plugging in the O2s. I don't notice a change in power and, unless I add cams, this setup works very well for me.

Ride safe.
 

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I have a 2012 xc, I put thrush glasspacks in my stock mufflers following the threads instructions here. I have pulled the rubber strip out of in front of the tank, my O2 sensors are still connected, and I have almost no popping at all. I tried unhooking my O2 sensors for one day and it popped between shifts and on decel, so I hooked them back up again.
 

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I modified my S1's I pulled all the fiberglass out of them.
No IAV no tuner top air filter and 02's hooked up.
Yes I get popping but I have noticed is that the dew-point or humidity makes the difference if i get popping. Days when there is little moister in the air there is less.
What I'm trying to say its hard to get ride of the popping cause you tune it one day and weather changes and your tuning is gone.
So be happy your ridding
 

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ive been wondering about the o2's myself, every one says un-hook them but even completely stock when i did i would get a pom pom on de-cel that i never got before. i haven't rode enough since i put the thrush mufflers in to know for sure, but on short rides they don't pop. my muffler guts were really sooty black too, i wonder if un-hooking the o2's were making it too rich. i'm going to run it with them un-hooked for a while longer and look at the plugs.
 

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My plugs are pretty much black when I have pulled them out, so I am to rich for whatever reason. I haven't killed it at speed and pulled a plug yet though, mine has been after getting home, but its 25 miles of highway driving home for me.
 

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I took the plunge and modified the factory pipes on my bike by removing the baffles. It sounds great but had a little popping with shifting. So I was advised to have Lloyds install their fuel controller, high performance air filter and IAV and disconnect the 02 sensors. I went to Myrtle Beach when they were there and had this completed and ran across the dyno. All was good but on my trip back to NC the popping was still there. I sent Lloyds an email and have yet to hear from them. So much for their great work and customer service. Any suggestions for the problem? Maybe install baffled pipes? If so, what suggestions do any of you have. I don't want loud pipes but a good deep sound.
Try giving them a call on the phone. Don't assume the customer service is poor because you didn't get a response to an e-mail. It really isn't uncommon for e-mails to get lost in space for whatever reason.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Try giving them a call on the phone. Don't assume the customer service is poor because you didn't get a response to an e-mail. It really isn't uncommon for e-mails to get lost in space for whatever reason.
You are right to a point. I did get in contact with Lloyd and we talked. They are nice people and I didn't mean to slam them too hard. Just a little. I am self employed and if I put "contact us" on my website, someone should be there answering no matter what mode of communication it is. Or, you lose business. Just sayin.
 

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I took the plunge and modified the factory pipes on my bike by removing the baffles. It sounds great but had a little popping with shifting. So I was advised to have Lloyds install their fuel controller, high performance air filter and IAV and disconnect the 02 sensors. I went to Myrtle Beach when they were there and had this completed and ran across the dyno. All was good but on my trip back to NC the popping was still there. I sent Lloyds an email and have yet to hear from them. So much for their great work and customer service. Any suggestions for the problem? Maybe install baffled pipes? If so, what suggestions do any of you have. I don't want loud pipes but a good deep sound.
I used to have a 08 kingpin and i did all the stuff you did and to me it was the biggest waste of$$ i ever spent. I had it installed at the dealer and had it dynoed ,but the popping never went away. Now i have a cc and all i did was put rpw slip ons and stage 1 reflash runs and sounds awsome! not 1 pop ever. guys start unplugging o2 sensors, taking out the air filter strip and all that BS then they are suprised the bike runs or sounds like **** and its popping!!from my own experience that i had the fuel controller,iav valve and all the rest is a big sales gimmick.we have a 106ci motor to me its plenty of power and we talk how HD guys are always trying to make there bikes faster,but it seems that we are going down that same road. I agree with some better sound than the factory lawn mower they give us but going beyond that you are opening a can of worms. my 2cent and my own experience i had with all this stuff.:D:D
 

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If its just popping on decal in gear its fairly normal, just probably made louder with your mods. You can tune it to reduce the amount, but its pretty normal in higher performance engines, take a notice behind a corvette or Camaro or other manual sports car and listen to their exhaust when they come off the accelerator.

That being said, usually a properly adjusted IAV valve seems to reduce popping in our bikes, and from what I understand it works best with the O2 sensors plugged in.

The popping is caused by the fuel mixture in the exhaust cycle when you come off the throttle therefore stop providing optimal AFR as well as spark, but since the bike is still in gear the transmission keeps spinning the engine. When enough gas gets sucked in during the overlap between exhaust and intake valves being open at the same time it can ignite from the heat of the engine and cause the popping. Tuning the popping out is basically making it so the amount of gas coming in is either too much or not enough produce the AFR needed for it to ignite from the heat, but theoretically I believe that means the fuel then gets burned off by your cats instead, the downside to trying to tune it out is that you will not be able to get it tuned out for every rpm under every heat condition and air density condition all at the same time. That little decal popping is not harmful to the engine, a true afterfire can be a warning of something bad, but the decal popping can be avoided by simply pulling in the clutch if you don't tune it out. Some people like the sound of it though.

And shooter, its all about getting the right combination of components to do what you want to do, I have a stage 1 flash, thunder exhaust, and high flow intake, and lloydz adjustable IAV and my bike runs exactly how I like, small amount of decal popping from high rpms but that's just because that's how I ride. Oh and I have my O2's plugged in, there's no real valid reason to unplug them in my opinion, even with a PC fuel management you can leave them plugged in to let your idle maps remain close to factory, all unplugging them really does is richen up your mixture at idle and low rpm's where it doesn't really matter for actual performance.
 

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My plugs are pretty much black when I have pulled them out, so I am to rich for whatever reason. I haven't killed it at speed and pulled a plug yet though, mine has been after getting home, but its 25 miles of highway driving home for me.
ah, of COURSE they are black. You pulled your O2 sensors so the system simply pours in excess fuel. No mystery here, right?
 

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I took the plunge and modified the factory pipes on my bike by removing the baffles. It sounds great but had a little popping with shifting. So I was advised to have Lloyds install their fuel controller, high performance air filter and IAV ...
The IAV is the ONLY thing that addresses backfiring/popping. What have you done to change it's settings/adjust it so far?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
If its just popping on decal in gear its fairly normal, just probably made louder with your mods. You can tune it to reduce the amount, but its pretty normal in higher performance engines, take a notice behind a corvette or Camaro or other manual sports car and listen to their exhaust when they come off the accelerator.

That being said, usually a properly adjusted IAV valve seems to reduce popping in our bikes, and from what I understand it works best with the O2 sensors plugged in.

The popping is caused by the fuel mixture in the exhaust cycle when you come off the throttle therefore stop providing optimal AFR as well as spark, but since the bike is still in gear the transmission keeps spinning the engine. When enough gas gets sucked in during the overlap between exhaust and intake valves being open at the same time it can ignite from the heat of the engine and cause the popping. Tuning the popping out is basically making it so the amount of gas coming in is either too much or not enough produce the AFR needed for it to ignite from the heat, but theoretically I believe that means the fuel then gets burned off by your cats instead, the downside to trying to tune it out is that you will not be able to get it tuned out for every rpm under every heat condition and air density condition all at the same time. That little decal popping is not harmful to the engine, a true afterfire can be a warning of something bad, but the decal popping can be avoided by simply pulling in the clutch if you don't tune it out. Some people like the sound of it though.

And shooter, its all about getting the right combination of components to do what you want to do, I have a stage 1 flash, thunder exhaust, and high flow intake, and lloydz adjustable IAV and my bike runs exactly how I like, small amount of decal popping from high rpms but that's just because that's how I ride. Oh and I have my O2's plugged in, there's no real valid reason to unplug them in my opinion, even with a PC fuel management you can leave them plugged in to let your idle maps remain close to factory, all unplugging them really does is richen up your mixture at idle and low rpm's where it doesn't really matter for actual performance.
Very good info here. However, the popping I am having is while shifting gears up when starting out. It's annoying.
 

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Did Lloyd set you straight? It's always better to shift around 2800 and maybe tweak the IAV a 1/4 turn at a time. The popping should at least be minimized if not gone altogether.
 

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Very good info here. However, the popping I am having is while shifting gears up when starting out. It's annoying.
Popping while you shift is due to the same effect, however it can be reduced/eliminated by training your right hand to de-throttle at the correct time with your left hand that's pulling the clutch.

E.g. it will happen if you come off the throttle too soon before the clutch is disengaged enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The IAV is the ONLY thing that addresses backfiring/popping. What have you done to change it's settings/adjust it so far?
I'm not sure which way to turn it. Kyle told me if I did'nt like the way it cranked up cold to adjust the valve out a half turn, but it could cause popping. So...I would assume turning it in would help with popping. Am I correct?
 

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I'm not sure which way to turn it. Kyle told me if I did'nt like the way it cranked up cold to adjust the valve out a half turn, but it could cause popping. So...I would assume turning it in would help with popping. Am I correct?
Yes, but too far in will make it have a hard time starting, that's why the instructions say to start at 4 turns out I believe, some people run it as far in as 2 turns from what I've read, but if your bike has a hard time starting then its too far in. You can always adjust it during the colder months to give it an easier time starting with a little more popping
 

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Thundermax

If you are serious about performance issues for your motorcycle and want a high quality tuner for your Victory motorcycle this is what we need to do.
I have contacted Zippers to find out when they will be coming out with the Thundermax Tuner (CCU) for Victory. This is what they said.

"At this time there are no plans to develop a unit for Victory Motorcycles."

This is the BEST TUNER money can buy for a HD. It is a closed loop system that works all the time. I have on on my Road King and that bike has never missed a beat in 50,000+ miles. It get rid of decel pop and does it own auto tune. It is also very adjustable via a computer linkup that you can do your self.

We all need to email Zippers at:
[email protected]

and request that they produce a Thundermax for Victory Motorcycles.

This is the best possible mod you could ever do to your bike. KEN
 

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ah, of COURSE they are black. You pulled your O2 sensors so the system simply pours in excess fuel. No mystery here, right?
No, my plugs are black with the O2 sensors plugged in, the thrush mufflers installed, and the air strip removed. When I did unplug the O2 sensors it didnt seem to run any different, but I didn't run it that long, just long enough to get annoyed by all the popping, like I said it popped between every shift and on decel. I plugged the O2 sensors back in, the popping is pretty much gone, I get one once in a while now, but seems to be when the bike is cold, and the temps here have been cold.
 

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Why not try it BOTH ways and see if one way resolves your issues?
 
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