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Discussion Starter #1
So I put a full exhaust on my cross roads used the lloyds gaskets have the lloyds idle air valve from previous owner. My problem is if I turn the screw to far it lowers my idle and makes it hard to start if i leave it open its like riding a machine gun.
 

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Shift at higher rpm's and don't shut the throttle all the way off when slowing down or changing gears.
 

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So I put a full exhaust on my cross roads used the lloyds gaskets have the lloyds idle air valve from previous owner. My problem is if I turn the screw to far it lowers my idle and makes it hard to start if i leave it open its like riding a machine gun.
whats wrong with riding a machine gun:D

HC's correct it'll tune out to a large degree with PCV and dyno.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So 1 more question does the timing wheel need a new dyno run or can I dyno after the Lloyd's filter and be good. I don't really want to dyno twice.
 

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So 1 more question does the timing wheel need a new dyno run or can I dyno after the Lloyd's filter and be good. I don't really want to dyno twice.
timing wheel dont really need the dyno I dont think...
have you got the PCV fitted?
the Lloydz intake is gonna lean it out yeah so Id PCV and dyno after that.
Ended up dynoing mine twice ,
first after I fitted the Ness Ram filter, and a 'plug chop' revealed how lean it was!
And again recently after upgrading to a set of Lloydz Torque Tubes,
Still pops n bangs occasionally but I reckon that sounds hot (as in good)....any modded engine with a free breathing exhaust and upgraded intake is gonna be a bit snarly:)
 

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KPR108
Turn the IAV with only 1/4 turns not full turns
 

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The cross bikes seem to be inconsistant about the popping. Some people say theirs doesn't pop at all, (hard to believe), and others like mine, even popped quietly when stock and brand new. The IAV is definitely the culprit. It is my view that you are wasting your time with the adjustable one, because the adaptive nature of the ecm compensates for your adjustment, somewhat. I have done testing with reducer bushings in the air line to my IAV, and have concluded that the IAV will start moving through a longer stroke to compensate for a reduced air flow. The IAV works best stock on my bike. The popping only occurs in a very narrow rpm band on decel, around 1600 down to 1200 or so. This is when that IAV valve opens, leaning the mixture. Our fuel injection is not buttery smooth and satisfying, almost every other injected bike I have owned or ridden has been better. If ridden hard, the bike responds pretty well, but just cruising around town, not to good, the honeymoon is over.
 

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I think Tozco has it nailed. The fuel injection on these bikes leaves a lot to be desired. Once you're into the throttle the bike runs great and has a lot of power, but the off idle 'throttle tip-in' really sucks. Have tried the IAV from Lloyds, but no joy there. On - off switch throttle makes it hard to ride smooth at low speeds, and does give me any confidence when turning left across traffic, and I get the hesitation - cough - delay before it picks up and takes off. Combine this with the slop in the drivetrain and all the fun is taken out of an otherwise great bike. I'll continue to watch for someone to come up a real solution to this problem other than spending hundreds of dollars on fuel tuners and dyno runs.

just my 2 pennies worth


Mike
08 Vegas
 

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Someone wanna define "popping"?
And whats wrong with it?
Seems to me a person fits louder performance pipes.
They then complain about the known side effects.
Then all the experts chime in on deficits of the standard injectiom and fuel programming.
If a person spends hundereds of dollars on pipes on a premium bike thats worth thousands, and then scums out at spending the few hundred more to properly complete the job then whinges about popping and backfiring.
Then I have no sympathy.
If ya cant afford to spend a few hundred to not do half a job why not just buy a $1000 K2 Honda and fit an old set of $100 yoshi 4-1s and pods jet up the carbies and scream around on it?
In my opinion Victory is a high end bike, and deserves more than "half a job"
 

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The popping only occurs in a very narrow rpm band on decel, around 1600 down to 1200 or so. This is when that IAV valve opens, leaning the mixture.
On decel, the injectors are not firing at all (shut off) so there is no mixture. Down around 1200 to 1400 rpm the injectors come back on line... that's when it pops, when it gets fuel again.
 

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Ive always wondered why people think they know more about the performance of an engine/ bike or designed upgrades than the team of engineers that created, developed and tested them...???



Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 

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On decel, the injectors are not firing at all (shut off) so there is no mixture. Down around 1200 to 1400 rpm the injectors come back on line... that's when it pops, when it gets fuel again.
Pops? or Cracks?
Id tend to define popping as the popping noise out of my exhausts when the bikes idling.
Next ride Ill try and observe what happens in the above sutuation....so HC are we talking rolling back onto the gas at these revs or still in decel mode?
Not that it worries me, I'm just at pains to work out what exactly people are complaining about.
 

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Mine popped really bad when I first put on my WD baffled pipes on but now after a year or so the popping has all but gone away with just a pop every now and then. I know my throttle style has changed some but I also think somehow the bikes simple computer has adjusted as well. I do hate how the throttle cuts out on me at low rpm's, especially when riding around a steep down hill curve but I have sort of got used to it. Would the PCV take care of on/off throttle problem?
 

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First off, is it a backfire (single pop) or a crackle like a semi decel jake-braking? The first can be nearly eliminated with a dyno tune. I still had a bit on chopped throttle (don't say not to abruptly close the throttle, please). I went into the throttle map on my laptop and adjusted all the closed throttle position cells (position 0) and added 15 all the way down the list. It made a TREMENDOUS difference! It is all but gone! I have gone for long rides without single pop. There have been a few in the past 2000 miles, but not consistently enough to warrant additional tweaking. This was with baffle-less pipes as well.
If the sound is like a jake brake, then it's normal. I rev match almost all my downshifts, and think is sounds bas azz
 

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Half Crazy, does yours pop when, as you say, the injectors come back on line? Are you able to tune it out with your PC? Do you add or subtract fuel? I understand that the '08 and up injection has to pass stricter emissions, but it can't hold a candle to the the '07 and earlier system. It is just sluggish feeling in stock and nearly stock form. I've ridden plenty of factory stage ones and they feel sluggish to respond as well. I hate the cut off and IAV, you would never want them on a system if you want smooth throttle response.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
My last bike I just gutted the whole system and blocked off the reed valves on the side of the jugs no pops nice crackle as you called it on decell but everything I've read says you can not remove IAV. I've always used the engine to slow down and this is killing me. Will put the Lloyd's filter on this week and set dyno appt ASAP.
 
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