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Discussion Starter #1
It's definitely on my list of things to do this winter. I have Slash-ness pipes. I would like to remove the heat shields on just the headers and wrap them. My question is, just how hard is this. Is it as easy as it seems or do I need to take some precautions. I am VERY ANAL, so it has to look good. Is this something a first timer can do or should I find some one to do it for me. Please tell me its an easy job because I take pride in working on my own bike...thanks
 

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it's not that hard. you have to pre-soak the wrap in water, and it makes it very stretchy. just take your time making the wraps, and then hang or set the pipes somewhere to dry, and as the wrap dries it shrinks and sticks. just be careful not to use the kitchen counter if you got black wrap, it tends to bleed, and the drips can stain. (let's just say i know a guy.... )
my pipes have O2 bungs in them, and that was the hardest part to wrap. if you have pipes with no bungs, it shouldn't be an issue. Go for it!
 

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its not a matter of being hard or requiring skill, its a matter of patience. if you can sit down and take your time then it will come out good. dont rush it and plan to take your time and your set. i've help do headers on small blocks and thats not somthing i can handle in one sitting, it gets frustrating running them thru small spaces, but on large single pipes you should be aight!
 

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Hawkeyecubbie nailed it. It is not hard at all to do if you follow what he just said.


I wrapped my first set without wetting the wrap years ago. This was before the wrap was cool to have on a bike. It used to be used pretty much just as performance header wrap, so extra wrap + rusty pipes on an Ironhead Sporty = wrapped pipes. It worked and looked good to everyone except me. It doesn't allow the wrap to shrink back on itself so the only thing that saved it for me was the fact that I wrapped it so tight and was incredibly anal. Do exactly what Hawkeycubbie said and soak the wrap and it will look fantastic.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the tips guys, Ima go for it. One more question...is there any one brand I should go for? I've seen kits on Ebay from DEI for less than $50 including the wrap, ties and silicone spray. What do you think?
 

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I got the dei kit and didn't have any problems. My only slight complaint is that I got the black silicone spray and after a year of riding it has faded. Looks pretty gray now. I'm going to hit it with another coat this winter and maybe use some real paint as well. Otherwise the stuff is great. The metal ties they sent haven't budged, and the wrap is still tight and not frayed.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I got the dei kit and didn't have any problems. My only slight complaint is that I got the black silicone spray and after a year of riding it has faded. Looks pretty gray now. I'm going to hit it with another coat this winter and maybe use some real paint as well. Otherwise the stuff is great. The metal ties they sent haven't budged, and the wrap is still tight and not frayed.
How are them pipes? I LOVE the look but I'm not sure I wanna start re-mapping and all that other crap.
 

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How are them pipes? I LOVE the look but I'm not sure I wanna start re-mapping and all that other crap.
thanks! I love them. Loud as hell as you would expect. I haven't sprung for a power commander or been remapped yet and I'm doing ok. I'm sure its a little rich, but my mileage seems to be in line with what others are getting.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
thanks! I love them. Loud as hell as you would expect. I haven't sprung for a power commander or been remapped yet and I'm doing ok. I'm sure its a little rich, but my mileage seems to be in line with what others are getting.
I might have to spring for them, they are the best looking pipes for a Victory by far!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Pipes are wrapped, but...

I ran into two little problems, hope you guys might have a suggestion or just some advice. First off, while I was removing the lower pipe from the front cylinder, the first nut came off fine...but the second nut was on pretty tight, so instead of the nut backing off the stud, the entire stud came out of the cylinder head like a bolt. It's ok to just bolt it back in the way it is, yes? And secondly...the upper pipe, the bolt that holds it on the rear bracket is either cross threaded or stripped or something, UGH! Anyway...what would be the best why to get it off...a dremel tool with a cut-off wheel you think? Thanks guys...when I have it put back together, I'll try to post some pics.
 

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try penetrating oil on the nuts before you start next time and yes you can just thread the stud back in, when they come out at work we loc-tite them back but im not gonna say to do that because one day you might want to get them out to replace and they might be worth replacing now if the nuts have rusted to them.

is the bolt just spinning in place? how accessible is it? i'd drill the head off and get the pipe off then drill the threads out with the pipe out of the way. i wanna say that on mine tho it was a bolt with a nut on the back and you had to squeeze a wrench to the back to get it while you ratcheted off the front.
 
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