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Discussion Starter #1
2012 CCT
I've seen some great remarks and some not so great remarks about the EZ assist clutch from Victoryone.com. Their own ads say it will reduce the pulling effort by 30% or more but they fail to say whether this is an educated guess, figured by an engineer or just sales hipe. So I purchased one and decide to do a red neck test.
I used a travel bag weight scale I had from our last trip. I took measurements from three different points on the clutch handle. The tip, the middle and then the end closest to the pivot point.
The ave. readings I got on the OEM clutch was 14Lbs, 19.6, and 24.3lbs.
After installing the EZ Clutch I got average reading of Half those of the OEM. 7.4, 8.5,and 11Lbs. Which are identical to the hydralic clutch on my Kawasaki.
I readjusted the clutch and took it out for a ride and love it. But I'm embrassed to say I thought I had tightened the clutch cable adjustment locking nut but while riding it I noticed it wasn't the same feeling when I got home as it was when I left. Sure enough the locking nut had come loose.
 

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2012 CCT
I've seen some great remarks and some not so great remarks about the EZ assist clutch from Victoryone.com. Their own ads say it will reduce the pulling effort by 30% or more but they fail to say whether this is an educated guess, figured by an engineer or just sales hipe. So I purchased one and decide to do a red neck test.
I used a travel bag weight scale I had from our last trip. I took measurements from three different points on the clutch handle. The tip, the middle and then the end closest to the pivot point.
The ave. readings I got on the OEM clutch was 14Lbs, 19.6, and 24.3lbs.
After installing the EZ Clutch I got average reading of Half those of the OEM. 7.4, 8.5,and 11Lbs. Which are identical to the hydralic clutch on my Kawasaki.
I readjusted the clutch and took it out for a ride and love it. But I'm embrassed to say I thought I had tightened the clutch cable adjustment locking nut but while riding it I noticed it wasn't the same feeling when I got home as it was when I left. Sure enough the locking nut had come loose.
Not sure how exact the luggage scale is, but based on your measurements I think it's safe to assume you've got your clutch pull force cut in half.

Unfortunately, you are also cutting down the life of your clutch, by an amount hard to measure. You have to now be twice as precise when adjusting the cable or risk having it too tight or too lose, which translates into slippage or dragging the clutch.
 

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Good on ya for getting some real numbers to compare. Science for the win!

I had planned to order one of these last week but other expenses got in the way (damn new house) so it's been bumped to this week once my next paycheck comes in.
 

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Meh, call me a lady if you will. I got over trying to change myself to please others back in highschool. I bought this bike to relax and ride long distances with the Mrs. not to prove to anyone how hard/often I grip it thumb up

As for clutch wear. Also meh, I don't believe it's as big of an issue as it's been made out to be by some. Maybe I'll find out the hard way that I'm wrong. If so I'll replace the clutch pack and take it off. Otherwise, no harm no foul
 

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so, what are you real men trying to say? i have one and leave
the adjustment to my victory mechanic who started with vic
in '99 as the dealership opened[part owner]. he doesnt seem to think
anything has been hurt in 15000 miles of 2 up riding--although
not aggressive riding. this is the first bike ive not done the adj.
myself. ive had the hydraulic kit here for quite a while but havent
needed it yet.
 

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Yeah yeah, real men blah blah blah. There is necessity and there is luxury. Do I need an ez clutch, nope. But it makes the ride nicer and no one has provided anything short anecdotal "i put this on and my bike 'sploded" that it causes problems or lame attempts to emasculate those who want to make life easier rather than live up to someone else's definition of a "real man" :rolleyes:

Go on and enjoy your "real man" clutch and I'll enjoy my pink tasseled lady's clutch and we'll both ride on happy with our choices.
 

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by now you must know i was too. no wadding here--:ltr:
[i use the elastic kind]
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Good on ya for getting some real numbers to compare. Science for the win!

I had planned to order one of these last week but other expenses got in the way (damn new house) so it's been bumped to this week once my next paycheck comes in.
Yep, its the same thing when people claim that doing certain modifications to the engines will make them run cooler. Or adding heat shields etc.

Why don't they buy one of those hand held laser temperture readers the ones you just point it at an object and it tells you how hot something is, and prove it?
 

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Don't sail too far because everyone knows the earth is flat! :ltr:
 

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As Pop would say, I got no dog in this fight. But there seems to be a prevailing attitude building that these E-Z Pull clutch arms are some kinna magic solution with no unwanted side effects and the claims of clutch damage are bitter naysayings of fools. I beg to differ, and strongly urge folks to stay away from them. If I had a protractor and compass, I would happily illustrate that while adding the longer lever will indeed significantly reduce the amount of pressure needed to disengage the clutch, it also reduces the amount of distance the clutch arm rotates at its axis, which very well could be leaving the clutch partially engaged. However, I have no compass or protractor to do this, and lack the mathematical knowledge to craft a convincing-looking formula.
 

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Agreed. If it that hard to pull, see if there is something wrong. I am a old man, out of shape and all of the rest of the things that come along with "the golden years". I have 35000 miles plus on my XC, yes the clutch lever takes more pressure than my C-50 Suzuki, but I have been in L.A stop and go on the freeway where it took several hours to
go a few miles and just didn't find the lever to be that much of a problem. Hell if you can hold the bike up, back up and all the other things required to ride the bike, I would maybe try one of these, :)
 

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And that's why some of you that can't adjust the clutch correctly with the easy clutch installed without messing it up shouldn't do it! I agree cheers
 

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As Pop would say, I got no dog in this fight. But there seems to be a prevailing attitude building that these E-Z Pull clutch arms are some kinna magic solution with no unwanted side effects and the claims of clutch damage are bitter naysayings of fools. I beg to differ, and strongly urge folks to stay away from them. If I had a protractor and compass, I would happily illustrate that while adding the longer lever will indeed significantly reduce the amount of pressure needed to disengage the clutch, it also reduces the amount of distance the clutch arm rotates at its axis, which very well could be leaving the clutch partially engaged. However, I have no compass or protractor to do this, and lack the mathematical knowledge to craft a convincing-looking formula.
You're right, simple geometry proves that a longer lever arm both reduces effort required to move it AND reduces the rotation at the pivot. You're also right that doing so reduces the amount of movement in the clutch basket which could result in the clutch not fully disengaging. That said, there is a huge range of adjustment possible on that lever. One only needs to watch the video of how to adjust the clutch that gets posted here a lot to see just how much freeplay the lever can have and still function properly. ALL that freeplay is wasted lever travel that could be used to reduce the pull effort. Proper adjustment is key of course and it certainly is possible that the ez-clutch does lead to early failure of the clutch longer term. However, you suggest a theoretical argument why the product MIGHT cause premature failure without showing any actual evidence that it DOES. This is my issue with everyone that talks about how bad these things are. No one has yet to show actual evidence that they create a problem. It's all either anecdotal "i put on in and my clutch failed" or based on gut feel or theory. Show me numbers, show me science. Show me a study of multiple bikes, some with and some without, ridden the same, with the cable kept properly lubed and adjusted. When there is proof that it causes a problem I will be convinced. Until then I'll take my chances. Hell, I'm used to changing a clutch every 15-30k anyways so if I get that far on mine I'll consider it normal wear and tear and motor on with a new one.
 

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You're right, simple geometry proves that a longer lever arm both reduces effort required to move it AND reduces the rotation at the pivot. You're also right that doing so reduces the amount of movement in the clutch basket which could result in the clutch not fully disengaging. That said, there is a huge range of adjustment possible on that lever. One only needs to watch the video of how to adjust the clutch that gets posted here a lot to see just how much freeplay the lever can have and still function properly. ALL that freeplay is wasted lever travel that could be used to reduce the pull effort. Proper adjustment is key of course and it certainly is possible that the ez-clutch does lead to early failure of the clutch longer term. However, you suggest a theoretical argument why the product MIGHT cause premature failure without showing any actual evidence that it DOES. This is my issue with everyone that talks about how bad these things are. No one has yet to show actual evidence that they create a problem. It's all either anecdotal "i put on in and my clutch failed" or based on gut feel or theory. Show me numbers, show me science. Show me a study of multiple bikes, some with and some without, ridden the same, with the cable kept properly lubed and adjusted. When there is proof that it causes a problem I will be convinced. Until then I'll take my chances. Hell, I'm used to changing a clutch every 15-30k anyways so if I get that far on mine I'll consider it normal wear and tear and motor on with a new one.
You a freakin lawyer? There are many threads about it on this board.
 

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I have friends that take their Victory's to a dealer for belt adjustments and oil changes They think it's too easy to either screw up the belt adjustment or put the filter on wrong, too tight, too loose and strip the drain plug.

For those people I suggest DO NOT PUT ON THE EZ ASSIST CLUTCH! :eek:
 

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You're right, simple geometry proves that a longer lever arm both reduces effort required to move it AND reduces the rotation at the pivot. You're also right that doing so reduces the amount of movement in the clutch basket which could result in the clutch not fully disengaging. That said, there is a huge range of adjustment possible on that lever. One only needs to watch the video of how to adjust the clutch that gets posted here a lot to see just how much freeplay the lever can have and still function properly. ALL that freeplay is wasted lever travel that could be used to reduce the pull effort. Proper adjustment is key of course and it certainly is possible that the ez-clutch does lead to early failure of the clutch longer term. However, you suggest a theoretical argument why the product MIGHT cause premature failure without showing any actual evidence that it DOES. This is my issue with everyone that talks about how bad these things are. No one has yet to show actual evidence that they create a problem. It's all either anecdotal "i put on in and my clutch failed" or based on gut feel or theory. Show me numbers, show me science. Show me a study of multiple bikes, some with and some without, ridden the same, with the cable kept properly lubed and adjusted. When there is proof that it causes a problem I will be convinced. Until then I'll take my chances. Hell, I'm used to changing a clutch every 15-30k anyways so if I get that far on mine I'll consider it normal wear and tear and motor on with a new one.
For evidence, we'll all have to wait a bit as the part gets out to buyers, and to gather it, I'll wait patiently to see the complaints begin to appear on this forum. As I do not know the specific level of tolerance, I choose to believe it's in my best interest to continue as I have been: in stock configuration. I also don't find my clutch especially difficult to pull in. The reward is not there for me to face the risk.

For those of you who've tried this solution, I hope that those of us who speak against the use of the E-Z Pull are being alarmists, and you'll all be just fine. I really do...who wants to wrench when they could be riding? Here's to me being wrong cheers
 
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