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The 500 mile initial service calls for re-torquing fasteners. Is there a list of which fasteners should be checked, and their values?
No ...but re torque means re torque, not just check.
Proper re torque involes slackening off the fastener before re torquing.
Dont use a torque wrench in reverse either itll hurt it.
Oh and dont confuse inch pounds with foot pounds or Newton metres.

Personally Id leave the first service to the dealer, most of us wouldve bargained that into the deal at point of sale.
Hopefully you have a dealer you can trust.
 

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Shop manual has all the torque values which can be had through a member Bbob.
 

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Shop manual has all the torque values which can be had through a member Bbob.
They didn't change much over the years so find the closest to your year and download it for free.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
No ...but re torque means re torque, not just check.
Proper re torque involes slackening off the fastener before re torquing.
Dont use a torque wrench in reverse either itll hurt it.
Oh and dont confuse inch pounds with foot pounds or Newton metres.

Personally Id leave the first service to the dealer, most of us wouldve bargained that into the deal at point of sale.
Hopefully you have a dealer you can trust.
I appreciate your advice, but I would never slack off bolts only to re-torque them, especially not knowing if some have thread lock. The factory should have properly torqued everything, and the real goal is to ensure nothing is coming loose. Usually axle bolts, pinch bolts, swing-arm, engine mount points, and foot-peg brackets are the prime target. And yeah, I don't ever fully trust any dealer since I have no history to go by except the initial sale and internet horror stories. I have all the tools and the experience, so hopefully I can get some values. I plan on doing all oil changes since most would never even prime the filter prior to install (and yes, you can almost completely fill a side mounted filter and get it installed without losing any oil) and I have the tool and stand for adjusting the drive belt.
 

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I appreciate your advice, but I would never slack off bolts only to re-torque them, especially not knowing if some have thread lock. The factory should have properly torqued everything, and the real goal is to ensure nothing is coming loose. Usually axle bolts, pinch bolts, swing-arm, engine mount points, and foot-peg brackets are the prime target. And yeah, I don't ever fully trust any dealer since I have no history to go by except the initial sale and internet horror stories. I have all the tools and the experience, so hopefully I can get some values. I plan on doing all oil changes since most would never even prime the filter prior to install (and yes, you can almost completely fill a side mounted filter and get it installed without losing any oil) and I have the tool and stand for adjusting the drive belt.
Fair enough but you did say RE TORQUE
youre not re torquing you are checking.
Theres a big difference.
 

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We use to do "nut and bolt check" on the race car. In the USAF we did a torque check on fasteners. Basically the same operation. Put a wrench on it and see if it moves, dont try to make it move. If has a torque value set the wrench and get after it.
 

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Retourqing of cylinder heads is clearly stated in the Haynes Fj40 manual, so yes go ahead and go over the bike, but, it's just a bike, no need for a torque wrench if you did enough wrenching....

Remember most steel bolts into aluminum on motorcycles, that's why the values of torque is so low.... And locktite is a good idea, at least Polaris did that right... But they used low quality bolts....

Andre using TaPaTaLk
 

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