Victory Motorcycle Forum banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
136 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So I finally got some time yesterday to paint my inner fairing and lower chin spoiler. Now I just need to pull the trigger and order my 23" wheel, triple clamps, fender, back extensions and will be headed to see Rylan Vos to have cams done july 1st.

Here are a few pics. Think they turned out to be a pretty good match. I cannot believe how much metallic is in this paint. Stuff is crazy!
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
136 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Oh ya, its crazy how much people want to have these color matched. I think i have about 150 bucks in material.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,071 Posts
what did you use for adhesion promoter on the plastic.
thats the main reason i didnt do the center on mine last year.
[chip resistance]. did you use the vic basecoat?
whose clear?

very nice!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
136 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
what did you use for adhesion promoter on the plastic.
thats the main reason i didnt do the center on mine last year.
[chip resistance]. did you use the vic basecoat?
whose clear?

very nice!
I scuffed it all really good with a red scotch brite pad and cleaned it off with a prepaint plastic cleaner. I use a epoxy sealer and sense epoxy has really good adhesion i dont use a adhesion promoter. Ive done alot of harley inner fairings and a few victorys inner fairing and chin spoilers and havent had any problems.
Here is what i used

Victory's base paint from midwest coating mixed 8:1 with their activator ( P-520 sunset red)

Cleaned with wax and grease remover before scuffing

Scuffed with a red scotch brite pad

cleaned with shop line JX992 plastic cleaner

wet sanded the metal pieces with 400 grit

Spray everything with PPG MP172 black epoxy primer. mixed 2:1 with 5% acetone to thin to be more of a sealer then a primer.

sprayed the sunset red, I made some test panels and to see how many coats it would take to match and i couldnt believe how many coats it took to get them looking as dark as the factory stuff was. I ended up using 5 full wet coats to get it to match. I let flash 15 minutes between coats.

After all the base coats I let it sit and flash for about a hour so i wouldnt run into solvent pop issues once i sprayed the clear.

I used shopline JC 630 clear ( It says its a polyurethane but i contacted PPG and they said its basicly a more flexible clear then acrylic urethane and completely compatable with paints that call for a acrylic urethane top coat. Mixed 4:1 with JH 6370 Medium hardner.

Did 4 coats of clear with enough flash time between coats to just be tacky and not be stringy when you touch a area you wont see.
(I used my stand since it was getting the same amount of clear on it in one spot)

left it in the booth over night to dry and installed it all the next evening. (24hr dry time so there was no chance of the clear being soft enough to dent it or put a finger print in it)

If you need any other help just let me know. I have been using this process on plastic for awhile on harley inner fairings and Vics for a few years and never have problems out of them.

Used Iwata LPH 400LVX Orange cap with 1.4 tip think i sprayed base coat at 28-30 psi

Thanks!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
13,309 Posts
Wow! You really know your stuff when it comes to painting. I have the paint but was wondering about the self leveling primer to use since I'm such a novice when it comes to painting.

I just want to do chin fairing and the JTD lowers. Mucho plastic. Would scuffing them up really well, cleaning them well, using a self leveling primer, some wet sanding, then painting do it or should I consider having it done by someone like yourself who really knows what they are doing?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,292 Posts
Man, that is such a cool mod. I was ready to pull the trigger on it myself, but then I found out you can't get the crimson red from Polaris and the color-matching is a bit hit-and-miss.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,071 Posts
Man, that is such a cool mod. I was ready to pull the trigger on it myself, but then I found out you can't get the crimson red from Polaris and the color-matching is a bit hit-and-miss.
i got my crimson red right from midwest coatings..used dp50lf
reduced for a primer sealer and 3000 clear. i figured the center
part is polyethylene or poly propylene, hence the need for
adhesion promoter[ppg 4903].thought it might chip easier than the
sides. i think i did mine last may or june right after i got the bike.
their basecoat sure is not fast flashing like dbu or dbc.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
136 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Wow! You really know your stuff when it comes to painting. I have the paint but was wondering about the self leveling primer to use since I'm such a novice when it comes to painting.

I just want to do chin fairing and the JTD lowers. Mucho plastic. Would scuffing them up really well, cleaning them well, using a self leveling primer, some wet sanding, then painting do it or should I consider having it done by someone like yourself who really knows what they are doing?
Yes scuff them really good with a red scotch brite pad till you have no shiny areas. This is the most important part for good adhesion is to make sure its scuffed really well and super clean.
As for your self leveling primer, with out knowing what it is im not sure what it would do. Now when they say self leveling it just means it has a slow catalyst that gives the material more time to flow out and level before the chemical flashes out (evaporates) and starts to freeze. A slow catalyst can also cause plenty of runs on vertical areas if you spray it to heavy since it takes longer to flash off. The biggest thing that can effect them is the temp where your doing your spraying. Between 75-85 degrees i use a medium reducer and catalyst. Anything hotter then that i go to a slow, and any cooler i use a fast. mainly the hotter the temp the faster it will flash off and possibly dry before it flows out nice and smooth leaving a orange peel look.
I would just recommend you scuff them good clean them with a wax grease remover and buy you a quart of omni MP172 and MP175 as the catalyst. I know this works so thats why i recommend it.
The main thing is your gun setup as far as making it smooth and orange peel free. Practice on a few test panels and once your comfortable with it have at it.
Good luck, any questions just ask.
Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
136 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Man, that is such a cool mod. I was ready to pull the trigger on it myself, but then I found out you can't get the crimson red from Polaris and the color-matching is a bit hit-and-miss.
You can get crimson red no problem. Call Midwest coatings and tell them you need P592 and they will get you hooked up.
(952) 252-2000
I have a paint book that shows me all the victory paint codes from midwest so i just looked it up and that is the code for it.
Good luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
136 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
their basecoat sure is not fast flashing like dbu or dbc.
Isnt that the truth!! I did two wet coats to orientate the metallics and it was about 30 minutes before it was tacking up and i could add the rest of my base coats. Thats why i waited a hour before i shot the clear.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top