Excellent, thanks guys! Did you use locktite?I was able to take the clutch side grip off by using a small flat screwdriver and gently working it between grip and bar, no damage, but be patient. End caps come off first. Bars are to be tightened to 40 ft/lbs. A blanket or towel on the gas tank is a must, stock cables workfine. thumb up
Wow, excellent advice! I have a 2007 Kingpin Tour and the set I bought (used) was on a 2006 Jackpot. The seller said the part number is 2878125-156. Any idea if these will work fine on my bike or if I may have some of the issues you pointed out?Before you get started, make sure the studs in the new bars are the same size and length as yours, and the threads go up far enough to tighten them up. Some of the Fly bars (maybe for the Hammer?) have different size studs, 10mm vs 8mm ?, with different length threads. Nothing worse than getting it torn down only to find out you can't tighten them up with out replacing the studs. You may need different size nuts if the new bars did not come with them. I would be tempted to use lock nuts with the nylon insert anyway.
Also, I seem to remember the Ness Fly bars do not completely cover the bushings in the triple the way your stock risers do. Some folks don't mind, but to me it looks unfinished and allows water to collect in the triple and rust the bushings.
You used to be able to get machined riser cups that gave a finished look, but I have not seen a set available in years.
The Ness Fly bars look cool with the solid risers, but I hope you're ok with the non-adjustable height and the different stance.
Yeah when I fitted my Burleigh Bars I had to die grind the location tag off that sat in a hole on the stock barsNice ride. Glad you didn't have too much trouble.
You already know about the 08 control fitment. That's the only reason I can think of why the controls won't tighten up. You have to either drill a hole in the bars or dremmel off the small bump on the bottom clamp.
I prefer to remove the bump as it allows for rotation of the controls to fit your riding stance preference.
Just snug up the set screws on the grips against the bars.
The Fly bars have more leverage so it's easier to move the bushings in the triple. This is why it seems not as tight. You also don't have the stock risers resting against the triple to help firm it up. The short risers you mentioned might help. I think Kewlmetal has some?
Enjoy the bars, I think those and the Hammer V bars look sweet.
Mine only had the one, forget which side now but the die grinder soon had it off. When I get home and look at the kocating hole in the old bars I can tell you for sure but I think it was the left/ clutch side.So there is a locating pin or bump on the bottom of the control clamps as well as on both switch module clamps?
had a look at the old original bars and theres a few locating holes in them, but I only had to die grind one locating peg off, I forget but think it was the left side....anyway just remove the controls and have a look and take the remedial action to grind off the location pegs then tighten up the controls properly so they dont move around.Mine only had the one, forget which side now but the die grinder soon had it off. When I get home and look at the kocating hole in the old bars I can tell you for sure but I think it was the left/ clutch side.
As soon as you get the controls off youll see it anyway.
I'm 5-9". Comfort is a little better than stock but I could use another inch of pull back maybe. These are supposed to move controls back 2 inches and up one from stock. I believe they did that. Much better.I love the look of the Fly Bars, but am concerned with the riding position. How tall are you, and how is the comfort level ?