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I will be installing a set of Arlen Fly Bars on my 2007 Kingpin, has anyone done this and any advice before I get started? I'm told that they work with stock cables, correct? Also would you use locktite and what would you torque them to? thanks
 

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Also I would like to remove the stock grips and install them on the fly bars. Any tips on removing the clutch side grip without damaging it? Does the end cap come off first or does it come off with the grip?

I've had good luck in the past removing clutch side grips by wrapping it first with a very hot wet towel, letting it sit a few minutes then twisting it off. The heat loosens the glue.
 

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Just installed a set of fly bars tonight u can check it out in the jackpot forums, it's easy man take your time. I wrapped a towel over my tank so when I took everything off they wouldn't scrap when hanging, the throttle an the high idle switch (if yours is newer you might get lucky an not have the idle switch). There nice looking bars, I had my dealer install my grips on my older bar an they had to cut them off so you might be SOL on that.

I have no idea how much torque they use putting the nuts on by the bushings but they were tight! So I did the same.
 

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I was able to take the clutch side grip off by using a small flat screwdriver and gently working it between grip and bar, no damage, but be patient. End caps come off first. Bars are to be tightened to 40 ft/lbs. A blanket or towel on the gas tank is a must, stock cables workfine. thumb up
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I was able to take the clutch side grip off by using a small flat screwdriver and gently working it between grip and bar, no damage, but be patient. End caps come off first. Bars are to be tightened to 40 ft/lbs. A blanket or towel on the gas tank is a must, stock cables workfine. thumb up
Excellent, thanks guys! Did you use locktite?
 

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No, only because it didn't look like they used it from factory
 

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Before you get started, make sure the studs in the new bars are the same size and length as yours, and the threads go up far enough to tighten them up. Some of the Fly bars (maybe for the Hammer?) have different size studs, 10mm vs 8mm ?, with different length threads. Nothing worse than getting it torn down only to find out you can't tighten them up with out replacing the studs. You may need different size nuts if the new bars did not come with them. I would be tempted to use lock nuts with the nylon insert anyway.
Also, I seem to remember the Ness Fly bars do not completely cover the bushings in the triple the way your stock risers do. Some folks don't mind, but to me it looks unfinished and allows water to collect in the triple and rust the bushings.
You used to be able to get machined riser cups that gave a finished look, but I have not seen a set available in years.

The Ness Fly bars look cool with the solid risers, but I hope you're ok with the non-adjustable height and the different stance.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Before you get started, make sure the studs in the new bars are the same size and length as yours, and the threads go up far enough to tighten them up. Some of the Fly bars (maybe for the Hammer?) have different size studs, 10mm vs 8mm ?, with different length threads. Nothing worse than getting it torn down only to find out you can't tighten them up with out replacing the studs. You may need different size nuts if the new bars did not come with them. I would be tempted to use lock nuts with the nylon insert anyway.
Also, I seem to remember the Ness Fly bars do not completely cover the bushings in the triple the way your stock risers do. Some folks don't mind, but to me it looks unfinished and allows water to collect in the triple and rust the bushings.
You used to be able to get machined riser cups that gave a finished look, but I have not seen a set available in years.

The Ness Fly bars look cool with the solid risers, but I hope you're ok with the non-adjustable height and the different stance.
Wow, excellent advice! I have a 2007 Kingpin Tour and the set I bought (used) was on a 2006 Jackpot. The seller said the part number is 2878125-156. Any idea if these will work fine on my bike or if I may have some of the issues you pointed out?
 

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I remember reading somewhere that the different part numbers distinguish between colors (chrome or black) an whether or not they are per drilled for the newer style (2008 I believe) controls.

I have a set to instal on my 2008 this weekend so will be following this thread.
 

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Just installed mine today:

1. I had a shop manual that said to unhook all the cables etc.. I didn't and adjustments for me were fine when completed. You still should check adjustment.

2. Used the towel (used 2) on the tank trick - thanks. Also used one on front fender and a small one over headlight.

3. hung master cylinder and clutch reservoir from pieces of line suspended from my garage door tracks, until new bars were installed. Let switch modules hang somewhere where they wouldn't scratch.

3b. Also disconnected clutch safety switch and front brake light switch when separating lever and reservoirs from switch modules.

3c. Loosened and tightened handlebar studs from behind triple trees with wheel turned hard one way and then other way.

3d. I took throttle off the bars without loosening cable adjustments. I did this by removing bars from triple trees and moving bars to the left side of bike allowing me to slid the throttle from the originally. Similarly I slid throttle and grip onto new bars before inserting studs into triple trees. Note: I left old bars attached to rises and removed rises and bars as a unit.

4. Was able to use plastic (dart inserted into bars) cable guide on right side only. Left side was too tight to use.

5. Shop manual says 40 ft-lbs for bar studs. My bars don't seem tight enough now? Maybe because I notice it now?? Haven't ridden yet, its raining.

6. I have after market grips. Left has 3-set screws. Do these go into holes (do I have to drill bars) or just tighten against bars?

7. Clamps for master cylinder and clutch are tightened but I can still force them to turn on bars?

8. I didn't use locktite. Should I have?

9. Pictures later.

9b. Bars don't look finished where they go into triple trees? Think I remember reading that there are 1/2" risers that will greatly improve the look of this?

10. Cant wait to ride!
 

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Nice ride. Glad you didn't have too much trouble.

You already know about the 08 control fitment. That's the only reason I can think of why the controls won't tighten up. You have to either drill a hole in the bars or dremmel off the small bump on the bottom clamp.
I prefer to remove the bump as it allows for rotation of the controls to fit your riding stance preference.

Just snug up the set screws on the grips against the bars.

The Fly bars have more leverage so it's easier to move the bushings in the triple. This is why it seems not as tight. You also don't have the stock risers resting against the triple to help firm it up. The short risers you mentioned might help. I think Kewlmetal has some?

Enjoy the bars, I think those and the Hammer V bars look sweet.
 

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Nice ride. Glad you didn't have too much trouble.

You already know about the 08 control fitment. That's the only reason I can think of why the controls won't tighten up. You have to either drill a hole in the bars or dremmel off the small bump on the bottom clamp.
I prefer to remove the bump as it allows for rotation of the controls to fit your riding stance preference.

Just snug up the set screws on the grips against the bars.

The Fly bars have more leverage so it's easier to move the bushings in the triple. This is why it seems not as tight. You also don't have the stock risers resting against the triple to help firm it up. The short risers you mentioned might help. I think Kewlmetal has some?

Enjoy the bars, I think those and the Hammer V bars look sweet.
Yeah when I fitted my Burleigh Bars I had to die grind the location tag off that sat in a hole on the stock bars
 

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So there is a locating pin or bump on the bottom of the control clamps as well as on both switch module clamps?
Mine only had the one, forget which side now but the die grinder soon had it off. When I get home and look at the kocating hole in the old bars I can tell you for sure but I think it was the left/ clutch side.
As soon as you get the controls off youll see it anyway.
 

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Mine only had the one, forget which side now but the die grinder soon had it off. When I get home and look at the kocating hole in the old bars I can tell you for sure but I think it was the left/ clutch side.
As soon as you get the controls off youll see it anyway.
had a look at the old original bars and theres a few locating holes in them, but I only had to die grind one locating peg off, I forget but think it was the left side....anyway just remove the controls and have a look and take the remedial action to grind off the location pegs then tighten up the controls properly so they dont move around.
 

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After installing my fly bars I couldn't see anything in my mirrors above 60mph.

Used two 7/8" Stainless washers as suggected by KevinX. Put a layer of duct tape on triple clamp side of washer to protect my chrome. This made washers just a little more than flush with isolator sleeve. Torqued to 40 ft-lbs. Worked like a charm. I can see something in my mirrors again.

May replace Duct tape with a gasket or fibre washer?

Thanks KevinX!
 

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I love the look of the Fly Bars, but am concerned with the riding position. How tall are you, and how is the comfort level ?
 

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I love the look of the Fly Bars, but am concerned with the riding position. How tall are you, and how is the comfort level ?
I'm 5-9". Comfort is a little better than stock but I could use another inch of pull back maybe. These are supposed to move controls back 2 inches and up one from stock. I believe they did that. Much better.
 
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