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I bought the bike on consignment a couple weeks ago with 6200 miles on the 2004 Vegas and have no idea what oil is in it.I got home tonight and decided to run the bike until the oil cooler started to get warm and change the oil. I figured it would stir it up some. Well it did.
The oil was clean and has an OEM filter but my question is the oil was extremely foamy. No water mixed in foamy just air bubbles thoroughly mixed in throughout. I've never had that happen to any other bike I've owned. This can't be normal...is it?

I'm putting Rotella T Triple Protection 15w-40 in. I'm wondering if the oil the other guy put in had no anti-foaming in it. I know foam makes bad lubrication.
 

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http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/255/oil-foam

Found the article above.

"Foam and air entrainment problems are quite common, but are traditionally hard to treat. Previously, the standard procedure was to run an ASTM D892 foam test on the offending oil, and then indiscriminately add an aftermarket additive, usually silicone-based. Generally foam went away quickly, only to return. More antifoam was added, and the cycle repeated until the system became so overloaded with antifoam additive that the oil has to be dumped. Today, there are more practical methods of searching out and treating the root cause of foam problems so that it is usually unnecessary to use aftermarket antifoam additives."
 

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Any moisture on the oil cap? Im guessing it wasn't quite up to operating temp, or just has alot of air in it.
No moisture at all and no it wasn't at operating temp just warm to stir the pot before I drained it. I'm wondering if the primary aerates the oil ot he put crappy oil in.
 

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http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/255/oil-foam

Found the article above.

"Foam and air entrainment problems are quite common, but are traditionally hard to treat. Previously, the standard procedure was to run an ASTM D892 foam test on the offending oil, and then indiscriminately add an aftermarket additive, usually silicone-based. Generally foam went away quickly, only to return. More antifoam was added, and the cycle repeated until the system became so overloaded with antifoam additive that the oil has to be dumped. Today, there are more practical methods of searching out and treating the root cause of foam problems so that it is usually unnecessary to use aftermarket antifoam additives."
Thanks!!!!
 

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One thing I have noticed over the years with some hydraulic oils. When somebody mixes two different types or brands of hydraulic oils sometimes they like to foam up when the machine is being used. It maybe possible that whoever you bought it from ran two diffenent engine oils that did not want to mix together good. Who knows they may have ran the bike low on oil and since they were selling the bike just topped it off with whatever oil they had sitting around. The other thing is maybe they put some type of engine flush in there,you never now.
 

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Sea Foam

Speaking of foam......I highly recommend Sea Foam.
It is available at Pep Boys or any auto supply. I bought my wife a used bike with very dirty oil & tried this trick: Put a little SF in the cranckcase, ride it about 20 miles to "stir the pot" real good, then drain your oil. I would then put some cheap oil in it for another couple hundred miles & drain again with a new filter. Then you have a totaly clean crankcase & get rid of any crap in the system.
SF is also very good as a fuel additive to clean out the injectors & carbon deposits.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
One thing I have noticed over the years with some hydraulic oils. When somebody mixes two different types or brands of hydraulic oils sometimes they like to foam up when the machine is being used. It maybe possible that whoever you bought it from ran two diffenent engine oils that did not want to mix together good. Who knows they may have ran the bike low on oil and since they were selling the bike just topped it off with whatever oil they had sitting around. The other thing is maybe they put some type of engine flush in there,you never now.
That is very possible. Shame on me for not changing it the day I bought it.

Speaking of foam......I highly recommend Sea Foam.
It is available at Pep Boys or any auto supply. I bought my wife a used bike with very dirty oil & tried this trick: Put a little SF in the cranckcase, ride it about 20 miles to "stir the pot" real good, then drain your oil. I would then put some cheap oil in it for another couple hundred miles & drain again with a new filter. Then you have a totaly clean crankcase & get rid of any crap in the system.
SF is also very good as a fuel additive to clean out the injectors & carbon deposits.
Seafoam is an excellent product. I'm hoping that it's clean only having 6200 miles on it. I'm going to faithfully change it with the Rotella 15w-40 T every 2500 like the book says even though it seems like overkill.
 

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/rotella_triple_protection.pdf"]Rotella[/URL] 15w-40 T every 2500 like the book says even though it seems like overkill.
My book says to use Victory oil.lol
Just bustin your chops.

I haven't noticed any foaming in my oil.I warm the engine before changing also. If the bike sat that much it could have picked up moisture somehow. Although, where we live, that doesn't sound very likely. I wonder how old that oil is? Sitting in an engine where it is exposed to air is definitely different than sitting in a sealed can.

I would be willing to bet that draining it well and changing oil and filter will fix your problem.
 

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My book says to use Victory oil.lol
Just bustin your chops.

I haven't noticed any foaming in my oil.I warm the engine before changing also. If the bike sat that much it could have picked up moisture somehow. Although, where we live, that doesn't sound very likely. I wonder how old that oil is? Sitting in an engine where it is exposed to air is definitely different than sitting in a sealed can.

I would be willing to bet that draining it well and changing oil and filter will fix your problem.
I bet it will. Be done today and if the rain holds out I'll take a ride.
 

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