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just bought a '12 xct (from a honda dealer) and i've noticed it has a thump sound when i get on the front brake hard. i took it to a victory dealer and they said the fork bearings are shot and need replaced.

how does this happen so soon? the bike has 2900 miles. the shop man did not give much info on it.

adam
 

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Being 3 years old with 2900 miles, it must have sat a bit. Wonder if that can be a contributing factor. Have you mentioned it to the dealer you just purchased it from?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Being 3 years old with 2900 miles, it must have sat a bit. Wonder if that can be a contributing factor. Have you mentioned it to the dealer you just purchased it from?
no i have not mentioned it. i can't believe they would do anything about it.
 

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Head bearings failing is usually from the head nut being loose. At 2900 miles the thing was not right from the git go.
Not common on any bike but could happen on any bike. They make the head bearing nuts hard to get to and people don't maintain them like they probably should.
I doubt it would have made any difference in this case, but someone might have checked them before the total failure.

Get it fixed and enjoy your new ride. It isn't broken in yet and should give you lots of (s)miles.
 

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i thought about it and since this is the second issue. (screw in tire when i bought it and i didn't see it. new tire cost $280) i decided to call the dealer. i explained the two issues and i'm waiting on a call back to see if they will help me. so we'll see what happens.

adam
 

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just bought a '12 xct (from a honda dealer) and i've noticed it has a thump sound when i get on the front brake hard. i took it to a victory dealer and they said the fork bearings are shot and need replaced.

how does this happen so soon? the bike has 2900 miles. the shop man did not give much info on it.

adam
Adam,
Are you talking about the fork slider bushings or the fork neck bearings?
 

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I'd have to put the bike on a lift and confirm the play in the neck bearings or at least have it shown to me before I would accept that the bearings are shot-a lot things can make a thump sound-loose fender/fairing etc.
 

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2 or 3 years after buying my XR, I was hearing banging from the from end when I hit a bump. Put the bike on a lift and checked for loose steering head bearings and sho nuff, they were loose. Adjusted 'em myself I did cuz you can get to that nut easily on a XR. Noise gone. I guess the steering head was assembled on a Monday after a rough weekender.
 

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spyshot

if the bike has extended warranty get it transfered into your name before any work. I'm sure it has it just go to service dept and ask them to check and put in your name
 

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2 or 3 years after buying my XR, I was hearing banging from the from end when I hit a bump. Put the bike on a lift and checked for loose steering head bearings and sho nuff, they were loose. Adjusted 'em myself I did cuz you can get to that nut easily on a XR. Noise gone. I guess the steering head was assembled on a Monday after a rough weekender.
Or a Friday arvo with the rush to get away for the weekend.
At that low miles its just not good, Fair enough bikes are mafe to be ridden and the OPs bike sitting around for a couple of years in the showroom shouldnt affect a major heavy duty item like a steering head bearing!.....I'd be looking at better fork oil. Get the thing off the ground and verify the problem I reckon.
 

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Yeah MBX, when its time for fork oil service, gonna go with a synthetic that's 5wt heavier and add a bit more than Vic specifies. And re-check the head bearing adjustment.
 

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fork fluid weights!!

be aware there is no set test for fork fluid weights, one manufacturers 10 may be lighter than anothers 7 wt. you need to know the centistoke of each fluid, of course Vic shows no specs as they want to sell their stuff. search peterverdone/suspensionfluids for more info
 

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Thanks RH.
 

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I used a full synthetic Penrite fork oil in 10 weight, added 5mm more to the level and they work fine.
Next change Ill experiment with 15 weight plus 5mm
 

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rodhotter is dead on with the oil weight comments. Every manufacturer is different. To add to what motorbikerx said about the oil level here's some info for you all.

Fork oil level will only have a noticeable affect on the front end's resistance to bottoming out, typically under heavy braking conditions. The oil level determines the amount of air in the fork once it's reassembled. Air is compressible so that pocket of air serves as a spring, when the fork compresses, the air gap compresses. However, the actual fork spring is so much stiffer than the air "spring" that the affect of the air gap is negligible during normal riding conditions. Only when the fork is almost fully compressed and the air gap is as compressed as it can be does it start to have an affect. Adding extra oil reduces the size of the air gap which effectively stiffens the air "spring" while using less oil does the opposite. This sort of suspension tuning is usually reserved for racing applications where heavy braking is the norm rather than the exception so the need for that last bit of spring at the end of the fork travel is very real. In a street bike scenario, altering the oil level isn't going to hurt anything but it's very unlikely to provide any benefit.

None of that is intended to be advocating for or against changing your oil level, just throwing some information at you all so you know what it is you're doing and can make intelligent choices.
 

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Redline fork fluids

here in usa redline has a variety of fork fluids with the exact viscosity listed, in centistoke. their fluid being synthetic has higher viscosity index meaning its viscosity changes less as its temperature rises. its recommended to use the same brand fluid when mixing to insure more consistent results
 

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adding a small amount of fork fluid is fine, too much can blow the seals i have read, how much i dont know
Yes and no, but you'd have to go nuts. Adding too much oil reduces the air gap so much that when the fork is compressed there is enough internal pressure that oil can be forced past the seals. The seals themselves won't move because there is a retainer clip holding them in the forks but oil can blow by if pressures get high enough. Without knowing for sure I would be willing to bet that you'd have to just about fill the fork completely to develop that kind of pressure though. If you follow the correct procedure and set your oil level with the fork fully compressed (spring removed), this should never be a problem.
 

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more fluid or stiffer forks will take you longer to stop
 
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