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Hi all...im replacing the fork seals on my v92sc due to a leak one side...i didnt think to save the oil from the good side for a volume reference...so need to know the type and capacity...thanks 馃槑
 

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Hi all...im replacing the fork seals on my v92sc due to a leak one side...i didnt think to save the oil from the good side for a volume reference...so need to know the type and capacity...thanks 馃槑
Hello, did you download the manual ? It is all stated in there

Andre using TaPaTaLk
 

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Thanks yes found it...strange thing is i measured all the fork oil and got 1250mils figured i lost say 50mils..so thats 650mils per fork...but the volume stated in the manual says 600mils...also still unsure of oil weight as it says 7.5/10/15/20...take your pic i guess ? Any recommendations?
 

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If you respect your teeth, go with a lower viscosity. I use Bel Ray synthetic 5W and its still pretty firm.
 

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I used OHLINS, not sure if i used the right one, but it worked nice for me ...



Andre using TaPaTaLk
 

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Hi again...what weight ohlins did you use?
It a bit different with Fork fuid, i think it is 7.5 weight, the same as original

On the picture it says OHLINS No.5 only ...

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It a bit different with Fork fuid, i think it is 7.5 weight, the same as original

On the picture it says OHLINS No.5 only ...
Maybe we are looking at different pics but the one I see says No. 10.
 

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Do some homework to pick what's best for you if you are moving from what the bike manufacturer recommends. A problem with fork oil is there is no universal standard and the weight numbers are not transferable between the different oil producers. There are some big differences in the flow and therefore the responses you will get.

This is only one reference. Take a look and you'll find more.

https://transmoto.com.au/comparative-oil-weights-table/
 

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Maybe we are looking at different pics but the one I see says No. 10.
Ohhhh sorry, i just went online OHLINS and found No.5 .... ha ha

Yes the one i used in my front fork before is No.10 as per picture

Andre using TaPaTaLk
 

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Do some homework to pick what's best for you if you are moving from what the bike manufacturer recommends. A problem with fork oil is there is no universal standard and the weight numbers are not transferable between the different oil producers. There are some big differences in the flow and therefore the responses you will get.

This is only one reference. Take a look and you'll find more.

https://transmoto.com.au/comparative-oil-weights-table/
Great website ....

So as a sample i bought OHLINS No.10 a few years back and it is as per your posted website

Ohlins 1310 / Front Fork Fluid #10 / Medium 22

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oil should be 7.5W/10 and it uses 0.6L or 0.63qt.
Local shop here at las vegas adv you can use PJ1 forktuner oil its non Synthetic and they use on their Victory no issues and its like OEM 7.5W light oil.
 

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Fork Oil Type/Volume

My 02-04 Cruiser/TC manual says 14.7 Fluid Ounces per leg. I am guessing that recommendation refers to a complete tear down, like you are doing, as opposed to just an oil change.

I have been using automatic transmission fluid for a couple decades with good results. Learned the trick from the past "Tips & Tricks" guy at Rider magazine. Reported using it on all the bikes at the Honda shop where he was employed, working out of a 55 gallon container. I do not see a problem with synthetic, or semi-synthetic. I am no longer a Luddite when it comes to lubricants.

You have probably seen it, but be sure to loosen the upper triple clamp bolts before removing the fork caps.

Good luck with your project.
 

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I just looked on Amazon / spectro oil / they have fork oils

Take a look at that mate ....

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I am looking into replacing the fork oil on my 2003 V92C. There are no leaks, but I suspect it's never been done. Bought used last year. While I am at it I figure I might do A rebuild. So am I over doing it by a rebuild? Forks seem good other than a couple of bumps on the freeway that hit hard. Hard enough to make me slow down. Is that a sign of something wrong, or just the nature of the beast. If a rebuild is warranted. Any suggestions on what parts to replace. I have had no luck in finding a "kit" other than the rubber seal kit. victorypartspro.com looks like I can put together a kit.
 

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jzelina...Check YouTube for how to videos. Check Witchdoctors.com for that kit. Measure the oil that comes out and replace with a 5W synthetic and put in maybe 10cc less for a more compliant ride.
 

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You have probably seen it, but be sure to loosen the upper triple clamp bolts before removing the fork caps.

Mileage and time between fluid changes are good gauges for when to change your fork oil. Back in the day many bike manuals called for a fork oil change annually or every 2 years. Your bike is probably considered to be from back in the day. With better lubricants and seals the service intervals pertaining to the front forks have changed for most bikes.

There are bushings in the fork assembly that guide the slide on the tube. If yours are worn you should see some slop in the slide in relation to the tube. If you do not see movement front to back or left to right with with the front end in the air and the wheel removed you may not need a rebuild.

If I did not recognize any free-play in the assemblies I would just change the fluid to begin. The forks are not sloppy, not leaking and your ride improves - then you are done.

I fret about overfilling and so would come off the capacity # for a rebuild by 1/2 ounce when just changing the fluid. The manual should give you some guidance as to how to check for the correct refill capacity.

I have a stretch of Highway I ride where I can gauge how the forks are working. When I hit it and get the right amount of cush I know my forks are okay. Handling in bumpy corners is a good seat of the pants gauge, as is the amount of fork dive you feel when you hit the front brakes. Keep in mind that ride is affected by suspension front and rear and that some bikes are prone to front fork dive naturally.

Good luck on your project.
 

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RICZ. The witch doctor video the fork style is different than the 2003 forks, but I am guessing it's close. Witch Doctor does not carry a rebuild kit for that year 45mm forks. They have the seals, but not the bushings and such. They only have 43mm.
 

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RICZ. The witch doctor video the fork style is different than the 2003 forks, but I am guessing it's close. Witch Doctor does not carry a rebuild kit for that year 45mm forks. They have the seals, but not the bushings and such. They only have 43mm.
Having a 2010 XR, I was taking a stab in the dark for ya. There are sources other than WD's for seals. BTW IMO you don't need the bushings unless your bike has ultra high miles.
 
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