Victory Motorcycle Forum banner

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,699 Posts
You probably wouldn't have the miles to change it but with as old as it is you may want to. Look for a post from Bbob - he has a link to service manuals in his signature block. Download one and see what it has to say.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,032 Posts
If it's not leaking, and still feels OK when riding, then don't change it .

Andre
@
TaPaTaLk
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
13,050 Posts
Yeah, this subject doesn't really have one consensus, so it's really a judgment call on the owners part. If it feels too soft or is leaking (obviously) then an oil change and seals might be called for. Some people add a few cc's of oil to stiffen up the suspension as well as use a heavier weight oil.

Lots of good recommendations out there. My personal favorite is Amsoil fork oil.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
430 Posts
Change it...it's 15 years old and has 18,000 miles. That's barely a 1000 miles a year. The oil has all kinds of condensation in it. As a matter of fact I'd go ahead and do the fork seals as well. It's only a few bucks more and now I know they won't leak.

Look at the tire manufacture date as well, the last 4 digits of the DOT code will give you the date. The first 2 are the week and the last 2 are the year.. ie..1205...12th week...2005...if they are over 5 years old, change them....it's your life we're talking about.

Change the brake fluid..it's hydroscopic, means it absorbs water out of the air...it's toast unless it's been changed recently. Again, it's your life.

I'd use a good oil and filter, run it a 1000 miles and do it again. Add some Seafoam to your gas to clean the intake and exhaust sides.

The absolute worst thing you can do is let a motorcycle sit. Be ready for a few oil seeps that should go away when used. The seals such as the front pulley and shifter seals will swell back up when you ride it.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,498 Posts
Change it...it's 15 years old and has 18,000 miles. That's barely a 1000 miles a year. The oil has all kinds of condensation in it. As a matter of fact I'd go ahead and do the fork seals as well. It's only a few bucks more and now I know they won't leak.

Look at the tire manufacture date as well, the last 4 digits of the DOT code will give you the date. The first 2 are the week and the last 2 are the year.. ie..1205...12th week...2005...if they are over 5 years old, change them....it's your life we're talking about.

Change the brake fluid..it's hydroscopic, means it absorbs water out of the air...it's toast unless it's been changed recently. Again, it's your life.

I'd use a good oil and filter, run it a 1000 miles and do it again. Add some Seafoam to your gas to clean the intake and exhaust sides.

The absolute worst thing you can do is let a motorcycle sit. Be ready for a few oil seeps that should go away when used. The seals such as the front pulley and shifter seals will swell back up when you ride it.

100% agreed with all the above. I would sooner buy a motorcycle that has been used well but looked after than a unit that hasn't been used enough. All the fluids should be changed including fork oil.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,733 Posts
Change it...it's 15 years old and has 18,000 miles. That's barely a 1000 miles a year. The oil has all kinds of condensation in it. As a matter of fact I'd go ahead and do the fork seals as well. It's only a few bucks more and now I know they won't leak.

Look at the tire manufacture date as well, the last 4 digits of the DOT code will give you the date. The first 2 are the week and the last 2 are the year.. ie..1205...12th week...2005...if they are over 5 years old, change them....it's your life we're talking about.

Change the brake fluid..it's hydroscopic, means it absorbs water out of the air...it's toast unless it's been changed recently. Again, it's your life.

I'd use a good oil and filter, run it a 1000 miles and do it again. Add some Seafoam to your gas to clean the intake and exhaust sides.

The absolute worst thing you can do is let a motorcycle sit. Be ready for a few oil seeps that should go away when used. The seals such as the front pulley and shifter seals will swell back up when you ride it.
Sound advice there, when you see the slop that comes out of your forks and you feel the difference fresh synthetic fluid makes then you'll be more than glad you did.
Increasing the air gap is what stiffens the front forks so it's actually less oil to firm it up, I went with 5mm extra air gap and slightly heavier oil 15W
Also fitted new seals while I was in there, as well as RaceTech Springs and Gold Valves, but you needn't go that far.
Just good fresh fluid works wonders.
And yeah change the brake fluid too.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
13,050 Posts
Increasing the air gap is what stiffens the front forks so it's actually less oil to firm it up, I went with 5mm extra air gap and slightly heavier oil 15W
Isn't that interesting. I obviously figured it was the other way around. Hmmm... learn something new every day.

How's the engine rebuild coming along?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,733 Posts
Isn't that interesting. I obviously figured it was the other way around. Hmmm... learn something new every day.

How's the engine rebuild coming along?
Fkn. s l o w
:-(
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
4,949 Posts
I've heard Redine it top 'O the line for fork oil I'll be doing mine at 30,000 miles so in a few months.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
4,949 Posts
I wish Rotella made fork oil.

:ltr::puke:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
430 Posts
I wish Rotella made fork oil.

:ltr::puke:
They do..it's called Shell Spirax S4..it's a 10wt hydraulic oil. I suppose you could use it...after all, fork oil is nothing more than a hydraulic oil. :grin:devil

I Googled Shell hydraulic oil... :laugh I know they make Mil spec 5606 red hydraulic fluid. I've used a tanker truck of that stuff in my life :nerd You never forget the smell....
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,032 Posts
Yup Jamming is correct, fork oil is actually just almost the same as Hydraulic oil, so if you can't get fork oil if your on a farm ... Or in a corner of the world like me, all you can use is Hydraulic Oil .... Good reminder and point ...

And yes I filled my forks with LESS oil 5 mm to make is stiffer

Andre
@
TaPaTaLk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
217 Posts
Change it...it's 15 years old and has 18,000 miles. That's barely a 1000 miles a year. The oil has all kinds of condensation in it. As a matter of fact I'd go ahead and do the fork seals as well. It's only a few bucks more and now I know they won't leak.

Look at the tire manufacture date as well, the last 4 digits of the DOT code will give you the date. The first 2 are the week and the last 2 are the year.. ie..1205...12th week...2005...if they are over 5 years old, change them....it's your life we're talking about.

Change the brake fluid..it's hydroscopic, means it absorbs water out of the air...it's toast unless it's been changed recently. Again, it's your life.

I'd use a good oil and filter, run it a 1000 miles and do it again. Add some Seafoam to your gas to clean the intake and exhaust sides.

The absolute worst thing you can do is let a motorcycle sit. Be ready for a few oil seeps that should go away when used. The seals such as the front pulley and shifter seals will swell back up when you ride it.
Agree completely!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
889 Posts
Increasing the air gap is what stiffens the front forks so it's actually less oil to firm it up, I went with 5mm extra air gap and slightly heavier oil 15W
I believe that's backwards. Air is compressible. That means the more air there is the more compression can take place therefore softer. Less air means less room to compress so it's harder. Too much oil is too hard and will blow your seals. Filled to capacity with oil would mean no room to transfer through the valves and no place to go. Like a rock.

In your example you softened the compression volume and added resistance to the flow. They counteract each other.

That's the way I've always understood it though but I'll do some checking.

OP, it's just like buying a used car. Unless you've been provided receipts for the work, you do all routine maintenance items required for the mileage shown. At the very least it will give you knowledge that everything is up to date as it should be.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,733 Posts
I believe that's backwards. Air is compressible. That means the more air there is the more compression can take place therefore softer. Less air means less room to compress so it's harder. Too much oil is too hard and will blow your seals. Filled to capacity with oil would mean no room to transfer through the valves and no place to go. Like a rock.

In your example you softened the compression volume and added resistance to the flow. They counteract each other.

That's the way I've always understood it though but I'll do some checking.

OP, it's just like buying a used car. Unless you've been provided receipts for the work, you do all routine maintenance items required for the mileage shown. At the very least it will give you knowledge that everything is up to date as it should be.
This sites gone nuts!!!
After typing out a long reply to the above, it wanted me to re sign in and confirm my new complex password and I lost all my great words of wisdom!!!:eek
So mate more or less is up to you.
Let us know the results of your investigation.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
13,050 Posts
This sites gone nuts!!!
After typing out a long reply to the above, it wanted me to re sign in and confirm my new complex password and I lost all my great words of wisdom!!!:eek
So mate more or less is up to you.
Let us know the results of your investigation.
Same thing happened to me the other day. It asked me for a token. It used to do that long ago so some bad coding somewhere is happening again.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
4,949 Posts
When these weird things start happening pm an admin.
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top