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Would that cause any problems ? I know at one time, that it was said that once you switched to full synthetic you shouldn't switch back to conventional. I remember someone telling me it was hard on seals and various delicate internals. But I know today there are numerous syn/blends on the market. So, has anyone done this, or have any real knowledge of whether it may be a bad idea ?
 

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I thought Victory 10-40 was a semi-syn anyway.....no?
 

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Guys stick with one oil. Do Not keep switching.
 

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Your girlfriend might care what lubricates her, but rest assured your engine does not... as long as it is lubricated.
 

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Victory oil is a syn-blend but I have to ask why you are switching back? What are you switching back from?
 

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Your girlfriend might care what lubricates her, but rest assured your engine does not... as long as it is lubricated.
You are describing a classier girl than I am acquainted with.

As far as the engine goes, I tend to agree. Peeps get way too anal about the earl in their pearl. Recommended viscosity and detergent rating are both worth maintaining since oil pumps interact with varying types to different degrees of efficiency. Will using a different viscosity or detergent rating motor oil lunch the mill? Not in the short term for sure. Any motor oil beats no motor oil.

The flip side is that if you want to minimize variables then using the same product over and over is in keeping with that effort.

What I don't know is what effect various non specified motor oils will have on Victory clutches. I'm just too green with this brand and looking forward to the learning curve in the primary. As opposed to the engine which is metal, polymers and some standard fibrous gasket compounds, all common materials and all forgiving of motor oil flavors, I don't know what effect non specified oils will have on the fibrous components of the clutch. I know what I can get away with in a Harley primary but the requirements of the Victory clutch are not identical. Although the basic execution is the same the requirements for viscosity, the effect of oil mixture on the fibres under varying temperature and pressure conditions and who knows what else may make using a specified product necessary to clutch performance and/or longevity.

Until I have put my grubby little hands all over the Victory clutch I'm inclined to be particular with what I coat it with.
 

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Until I have put my grubby little hands all over the Victory clutch I'm inclined to be particular with what I coat it with.
Millions of single oil, wet clutches in bikes outside the Harley and Ducati lines.

Simple answer is don't use oils specifying "friction modifiers." Outside of those, I've use numerous cheap auto oils over the years and never had a problem.

Dry clutches SUCK. They are easy enough to change, but they burn plates so quickly and easily and they have a tendency to moan and grab and slip, there is just no reason...save that Duc folk like loud clutches to save lives...
 

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I've never understood peoples obsession with oil type/weight/brand, etc. I am on a few truck forums and a few times when the oil question comes up I tell them about my job where I drive a 4-wheel drive truck carrying alot of weight and am off road in nasty places quite often. We put in the cheapest oil on contract and myself and others rarely change it on time. We trade these trucks in at 200k and in my 15 years we have never had an engine blow up or give any problems. Trannys and transfer cases is a different story. I've got 250k on my personal truck just putting in whatever is on sale, regular or synthetic, it don't matter. I put 20K on my little suzuki doing the same thing and it is still running fine.
 

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I've never understood peoples obsession with oil type/weight/brand, etc. I am on a few truck forums and a few times when the oil question comes up I tell them about my job where I drive a 4-wheel drive truck carrying alot of weight and am off road in nasty places quite often. We put in the cheapest oil on contract and myself and others rarely change it on time. We trade these trucks in at 200k and in my 15 years we have never had an engine blow up or give any problems. Trannys and transfer cases is a different story. I've got 250k on my personal truck just putting in whatever is on sale, regular or synthetic, it don't matter. I put 20K on my little suzuki doing the same thing and it is still running fine.
I posted an old Consumer Reports article where they did a syn vs dyno test on here somewhere. First they ran a couple of New York City cabs like 50k miles on both types of oil, changing the oil every 3k. Pulled them apart and they looked identical. Neither had any problem. They repeated the test with their intervals extended to 6k miles. Pulled them apart again, both still fine.

Most people won't ride motorcycles 50k miles in their lives. All the high dollar marketing won't make a bit of difference to anything but their wallets.
 

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I think I may have posted something like this around here before but I do have oldtimers disease and thus a good excuse.

My grandpa said that if I wanted to get rid of the warts he could take me to a warthealer. I told him that there was no point since it was a stupid hillbilly wives tale. He responded that since I felt that way he would buy a bottle of Compound W and we would go that route.
Point is who knows? The warthealer might have have worked if I had some faith in the warthealer.

If you put great stock in the magic of motor oil then the benefits you get you will ascribe to that oil and the other things you have faith in. OTOH if oil loyalty is not high on your agenda then when the feces impacts the rotating vanes you will not include oil in your list of suspects.

If you own stock in Royal Purple (and all the other caviar oil brands) this is all good news. Credit for excellence from the converted and a pass from the mensches when things go south.

Pops particular spin on the truth is I tend to not change up the mix too much. Going from one oil to the other doesn't strike me as an invitation to earth shattering chaos but it does add another variable. Why futz around with what just worked for thousands of miles?

Somewhere in the bowels of Polaris Central is a pinhead with a slide rule and a smock who gets paid to do NDT / DT on product in an effort to qualify lubricants. (Yeah right and he vacations at Disneyworld with Santa and the Easter Bunny) Anyway, between this nerd and the clowns in marketing and sales they come up with an oil that offers the best compromise of factors for a given engine and by some coincidence, it sports a Polaris / Victory logo on the label. Whoda thunkit?

I believe what the engine manufacturer specifies is not entirely an overpriced marketing ploy.
I believe that the specification defined by the manufacturer probably will not lunch the mill.
I believe that the Quaker State/ Pennzoil/ fill in the blank version of the specified oil is practically identical to whatever other fill in the blank the local auto supply has to offer.
I believe that if I have started out dumping Quaker State or whatever into the bikes gullet and I didn't blow up, then it's a reasonable assumption that dumping Quaker State or whatever in it again is not likely to cause a conflagration.

But, if I believed that Royal Purple would deliver the elixir of long life to my mill beyond the capability of non royal non purple oils then I would give my promise ring to Royal Purple instead of fill in the blanks.

My grandpa could have said that if I wanted to get rid of that bottom end noise he would get me Royal Purple.
 

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The best oil is CLEAN, NEW oil...

Truth be told, you could run straight 30 WT Quaker State car oil and change it every 2500 miles... your engine would last 100,000 miles.
 

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I believe what the engine manufacturer specifies is not entirely an overpriced marketing ploy.
I'm not sure I do. I bought a 5 liter jug of Yami oil at the dealer last time I was there. It cost me $20. Next to it was a jug of the Victory oil, $48. What exactly would be the difference between an air-cooled Yami engine/tranny vs an air-cooled Victory engine/tranny that calls for more than doubling the price of its oil?

Why does a Victory luggage rack cost $399 and the one in the JC Whitney catalog cost $89?

Why did Victory's stock double over the course of a year?
 

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I didn't mean to imply that it isn't a marketing ploy. Just not entirely. There may be a little R&D in there somewhere. Sometimes these guys actually do that. Not often and not much but some.
 

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back when i was just starting out and really poor, i bought a 71 ford pinto for 1000.00 that was already worn out when i got it. i drove that pinto for 10 years putting in whatever oil was the cheapest. it was mine and my wifes only transportation for that 10 years. rarely ever did it get a change. i did have tons of problems out of that car, but, never an oil related failure.
 

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Profits don't come from sales alone...one must also have profit margins. Victory has certainly factored those into their parts and accessories.
Head.... nail.... WHAM!
 
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