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Discussion Starter #1
I'm not much of an electrician, but am not completely incapable either. My current issue is that both the front and rear left side turn signals are out. When I engage the left signals I get a fast flash on the signal indicator light. (As opposed to the slower blink when the signal works normally.) All other lights and electrical work fine.
I just bought this bike (2005 Hammer) and it came this way. The previous owner lowered the bike and that caused some damage to the rear wiring harness under the rear fender. The wiring is run along the rim of the fender, away from center, but the harness is opened up now and some of the wires have damage. I separated the wires and did a patch job with some electrical tape, but that didn't change anything. I've ordered a new rear harness, but that's back ordered for a month. I would like to tackle this sooner. I would also like to track down the real issue before buying more expensive parts.

Does anyone have any idea why both the front and the rear failed together? Are they joined somehow? Does anyone have a wiring diagram for this bike? Any help or hints would be much appreciated.
 

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Get your self a test meter with out one your going to hunt and peck for some time.
Fast flash can come from a dead short. Where there is corrosion (green stuff) shorting the power wire and the ground wire. You see it a lot on cars. Could be a flatten place where two wires are touching. Even look inside the headlight bucket. Check battery for loose connections or maybe its old and failing. Bulbs could be bad. Check light sockets.
Are you using LED bulbs?
With a meter start looking.
 

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If it is like my Kingpin, these things are wired a bit differently. My turn signal has one wire going to it--positive. The ground wire is attached to the fender support under the fender. The turn signal completes the ground loop by being grounded when it is mounted and tightened up to the same frame support that the ground wire is hooked to. If the turn signal is not firmly mounted and making metal to metal contact, or the ground wire under the fender is not firmly connected, you will get the quick flashing symthom that you have.

That is the problem I noticed when installing my bags and had to move the turn signals.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Thanks guys-
Rear fender and seat are off.
Battery connections are clean and secure. Charge of course is good on battery as well.
Here's some better detail:
No LEDs on turn signals - standard bulbs. (5008 10w) The rear bulb was bad, replaced it. Nothing changed.
Ran continuity test from both front and left bulbs to the main plug under the seat and had continuity all the way through on both.
Looking at the rear connections, there are four lights: turn left, turn right, tail/brake, and license plate light.
All have two wires coming from them, and all appear to be positive. (continuity buzzer sounds on both wires independently if measuring from the single post inside of bulb socket.)
No serious crimps or flattened areas in wires.
I do not see a ground wire anywhere under the fender, and it was suggested that this may be a ground issue.
Should there be a ground under the rear fender? Any other ideas? I'm stuck, again.
Thanks in advance for the help.
 

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Hey steak, pull the bulbs before you do continuity testing. If a bulb is good, it will be just about as positive on the return leg as on the hot leg. I hope that statement makes sense. With the bulb out you will only see voltage on the supply leg. The return or ground leg will show nothing.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ah...troubleshooting when you're out of your comfort zone. I want to enjoy the journey, but it's hard when my bike's in pieces!
So, to clarify, I pulled the back left bulb out and placed one lead of my meter on the contact in the bulb socket. The other lead went on the metal sleeve that connects the first wire from the socket to the rear harness. Continuity buzzer sounds. I then move the meter lead to the second wire from the left signal socket and the buzzer sounds again. (continuity achieved on both) This is why I assumed they were both positive.

Here's a picture to illustrate what I'm looking at:

http://sdrv.ms/Zovw8q

I can also achieve continuity from the bulb socket lead to the pin on the main connector where the rear harness joins the main harness under the seat. (big black multi-pin plug)

I hope this is clearer. :crzy:
 

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Buzzing I don't understand.
With plastic mounts for your turn signals you need a ground wire.
If you stick meter in socket one should show power one should not.
If there is two wires going into your housing the one thats black should be ground the one that has color is power.
Start up under the seat and see if the power wire has power now check ground and see if it grounded.
Now that you know every thing is good there move to the turn signals and see what you have.
 

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An early post said you had wires damaged. It sounds like you have both wires hot which could happen if the insulation broke down on those damaged wires. That means you have no return path so no lights light. Now the task is to find where the wires are getting crossed up and insulate them properly.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Making progress, but still no root cause.
I've proven out the entire rear harness. All is well there. All fuses and relays are fine as well.
Thinking about the problem from the beginning again, both front and rear left blinkers being out, I have to again ask myself what would cause both to fail. Simple answer after bulbs, fuses, relays and rear harness check out is the switch itself.
Tomorrow I will be testing the blinker switch and running ACM self diagnostics to see if a code appears.

http://www.victoryforums.com/showthread.php?t=5974&highlight=fast+blink

Has anyone had a bad switch? Seems like a simple mechanism. I cleaned it today, just to see if that would cure anything, did not. Ran out of time and had to stop troubleshooting.

One last thing...can anyone explain what causes the fast blinking of the turn signal indicator? (fast blink on bad side) Where does the fast blink signal come from and what does it mean?

I will continue to report on progress until this is solved.
 

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I would definately look at the switch first. The other side is working so you know your batter, ignition and flasher module is good. If you have a meter i would compare my reading from my right and left with the switch unit disconnected. Too bad you don't live close to me as I would take a loot at it myself. If all reads good then replace your switch. If not then carry on down to find the problem. Could be a number of things. Harness could be shorted or ground could be off. Could have blown both bulbs due to a surge. Just some things to start with.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Bad ACM. (Auto Cancel Module) $320 and 2.5 hours of labor at local Victory dealer. Yes, I gave up and gave in and had someone else assist.
Now I know what to look for and where. I also have a service manual, so future trouble will be easier to diagnose.
 

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The ACM (Auto cancel module) may have got fried when the rear wires were damaged. Not a cheap part, but once you know for sure the wiring is good, either find a new ACM or borrow one from another vic. If you have bad wiring, like a short, you will blow the new ACM as well.

I hope this helps. Also, look for the manual for your bike so you can have the wiring diagram. That will be a huge help in verifying yoru wiring and locating the ACM.
 
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