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Can somebody please give me a idea of the best fork oil to use ? And how much to use of it, my girls were blown out so there was nothing to measure coming out 馃槥
 

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450 ml of fork oil, if I recall. There are a lot of videos about changing Vic fork oil. I prefer 5W synthetic.
 

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I used the Amsoil Shock therapy 10 wt. I really like.
 

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Ted in Reno

if you don't tell us year and model. Do you want us to guess at what to tell you. youtube has sealmate
 

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Thanks for all the help everybody I got it all done it's now I'm ready to put it back together I'm told you can compress the spring by hand but I'll be damned if I can get it any suggestions
 

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Thanks for all the help everybody I got it all done it's now I'm ready to put it back together I'm told you can compress the spring by hand but I'll be damned if I can get it any suggestions
We dont know what sort of Vic youve got theres two different types of fork.
VJ s always harassing people to fill out thier bike details and where they are so we are better able to help.
Ive rebuilt Vegas forks a few times yeah its difficult comressing the spring but not impossible,
If its a Vegas..
Eat some wheaties and dont cross thread it
 

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When I did mine I used Redline 10w.
 

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When I did mine a coupla weeks ago I used a pipe vise. Not a vise that holds a pipe (a curved clampin' jawed unit or the type with a chain 'n take-up). But, a vise made usin' a pipe as a load bearin' member. Make this vise outta pipe usin' the parts ya buy at the hardware store. One side screws into the pipe 'n has a floatin' head with crank. The other side slides up-n-down the pipe and bites into the pipe to grip the pipe and hold (in this case) the bottom of yer fork shock.

Place yer fork in a bench vice for stability and safety. Then, position the crank part on the top of the fork cap. Hold the shock with the other end of the bottom of the pipe vise. Compress the top nut of the fork tube usin' the pipe vise crank (it should be mentioned that the top nut should be already attached to the cartridge--that's 'nother story). The stanchion may pull away as ya compress the spring... that's okay, just don't let it drop too far. With 'bout 2 inches of compression ya can now lift the stanchion into the upper fork cap and start threading the cap into the stanchion (fork body). Get it fairly tight. After ya've installed the fork back on the bike ya can torque the cap to spec.

Oh yah, the oil? PJ1, 10 wt., from Amazon. I bought 2 qt.s but only used 1 (for both forks). To do the job properly, on a Vic, you should be measurin' yer oil+head space in the fork... not just pourin' a volume of oil in the fork. There's a measurin' tool (on Amazon) which measures the distance/volume of oil. It's called a: Motion Pro 08-0121 Fork Oil Level Tool. The process involves removin' yer spring to do the measurin'. But hey... ya want it done right? Right?

Just one way of doin' it....
 

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Can somebody please give me a idea of the best fork oil to use ? And how much to use of it, my girls were blown out so there was nothing to measure coming out 馃槥
Ted the problem that some are alluding to is that different models of vic's use different style forks. They don't use the same oil or same volume of oil because of that.

What bike do you have?
 

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fork it

I have used both wts of the Amsoil. I like the lighter weight of oil for the forks in my 2011 XR. My weight it around 180-lbs. Some I am sure like the heavier weight of oil. Also no forkoil is inexpensive unless your forks take the old automatic transfluid, which Victorys do NOT take. Have fun.
 

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@broggyr for your fork oil delema
@53canuck also of cource

Smile

Andre using TaPaTaLk
 

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For my 2006 jackpot fsm said 545 ml so I'd make sure the year and fsm requirements are exact...you can never get every drop out either u less you use brakekleen
 
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