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Discussion Starter #1
With a couple of somewhat complex Iron Butt runs coming up next month, I decided it was time to finally get off my wallet and pick up a motorcycle specific GPS. I was planning on getting the Zumo 660 and the associated Victory mounting harness, but when I heard about the 590LM, I was intrigued. Seeing as the Zumo 660 has been around for 5+ years now (old in the tech world) I figured I'd take a chance on trying out the latest and greatest. I was taking a chance twofold. First, unproven technology which is likely to have some bugs. Second, would I be able to wire it up and have it work seamlessly with the factory stereo. Here's how it all played out along with some pictures of the install...

The 590LM (just like the 660) mounts to the handlebars using a Ram ball set-up. I had no concern with that part. The wiring harness is what I wasn't so sure about. Obviously there is no Victory option for the 590LM as it was just introduced. In addition, the wiring harness on the 590LM is different than the stock wiring harness on the 660 as well. Here's what it looks like.

You are provided with about 3 feet of cable from the mount to the splitter. Plenty to reach from the handlebars into the fairing.



After the splitter, the leads are various lengths. You get about 2 feet each for AUDIO IN, AUDIO OUT, and MIC. Power leads with integrated fuse are about 3 feet, and the USB plug is about 5 feet. This is a TON of wire. Not a big issue for a bike like the XC since it has plenty of room in the fairing, but could be an issue for some other models if you're concerned about concealing all the extra wire.



On the bike end of the wiring scenario (as I'm sure most of you already know) there is a plug for the Victory 660 mount / wiring harness. It is a small, light grey plug that can be located in the lower right area (when looking from the front of the bike) of your fairing innards. It most likely has a small black weather cap on it and looks like this.



It's the small rectangular one right in the middle of this picture. (There may be additional wiring in my pic that you don't see on your bike due to some added equipment.)



The plug has 5 wires going into it. Per the wiring diagrams in the Factory Service Manual, the pin out is:

P1 - NAV +12V Switched Power - Red
P2 - NAV Audio (-) - Grey/Dark Blue
P3 - NAV Audio Left (+) - Dark Blue/Orange
P4 - NAV Ground - Black/White
P5 - NAV Audio Right (+) - Dark Blue/Pink



The question was, how to hook up the factory plug to the Garmin harness while doing the least amount of damage possible. The power leads were a no brainer, but I wanted to tie the audio in as cleanly as possible. Here's what I came up with. A good old fashioned 3.5mm to RCA splitter from an old Sony Discman I owned years and years ago. (Admit it, you've got that box of old wires hanging around the garage too...)



I simply plugged it in to the 2ft AUDIO OUT lead on the Garmin harness.



Lined it up so it was even with the 3ft power leads, and then cut off the RCA ends.



to be continued...
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Your typical 3.5mm to RCA splitter has a right channel and a left channel, each contained within their own insulator. Each insulator is wrapped with a ground, either braided or just twisted as mine was.



Simply untwist / unbraid the ground wires.



And twist them together into their own lead.



Apply some heat shrink tubing, and you now have 5 equal length leads that correspond to the 5 wires in the factory GPS plug.



So now how to connect the two? I searched, and searched, and searched, and could not find the corresponding female plug that mates up with the factory GPS plug. If anyone can track this part down and post it up here, I would be eternally grateful as it would really make this write-up complete. I went with what I thought would be the best alternative, a 5-pin Weatherpack connector for 18-20ga wire. It was $6 on eBay. It worked well, but ended up presenting its own problems which I'll go into later.



Weather seals and pins, crimped and soldered.



And the finished plug. The pin holes are labeled A-E so I matched up the wires according to the FSM pin-out from the original plug in order to save confusion down the road. The power leads are obvious, red + and black -. For the audio, bare is ground, red is right, left is white. If yours aren't color coded like mine were, you can test for continuity between the leads and the 3.5mm plug. The left output with be continuous with the tip of the plug. The right output will be continuous with the ring of the plug, just below the tip. The ground is continuous with the long sleeve portion at the base of the plug, just in case you were curious.



And the finished Zumo 590LM wiring harness.



to be continued...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Sadly, since I could not find the mate to the factory GPS connector, I had to cut it off. I saved it in case a source should be discovered by someone in the future. Here's the pin-out again with a better view of the wires.

P1 - NAV +12V Switched Power - Red
P2 - NAV Audio (-) - Grey/Dark Blue
P3 - NAV Audio Left (+) - Dark Blue/Orange
P4 - NAV Ground - Black/White
P5 - NAV Audio Right (+) - Dark Blue/Pink



Same treatment as the Garmin harness, seals and pins crimped and soldered.



And the finished connector. Note that there are no corresponding A-E marks on the female half of the plug, at least not that I could find. Be very careful when inserting the pins that you match up the correct wires with the correct sockets that correspond to the male plug. Once the pins are inserted, you need a special tool to remove them.



So I mentioned earlier there was a problem with this Weatherpack connector I chose to use. Well here it is... It was easy to wire, is weatherproof, and works great. However, it is so much bigger than the original plug that it will not fit between the top triple clamp and the fairing sub-frame when you are attempting to route the wiring. I had to loosen the four bolts that hold the fairing sub-frame to the fork brackets in order to squeeze it in there. Not a deal breaker, but not ideal either...



to be continued...
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Lastly, here's the mount. Genuine 1" (B Size) RAM parts. The cradle is the one that comes with the Garmin 590LM. Also used the included RAM cradle ball mount and the RAM short arm (it's the powder coated aluminum one if you were curious.) I initially installed it with the included RAM handlebar mount which works, but places the GPS a little higher than I liked. In the following picture, it is installed with the Victory clamp mount and threaded RAM ball. The wire runs nicely down under the handlebars and ties in right where the rest of the control wiring comes together.



All the extra wiring on the Garmin harness gets coiled into about a 6 inch loop, zip tied together, and stashed next to the stereo module inside the fairing.



Not the greatest picture, but here's a front view. You can see there is one additional threaded hole in the front of the clamp mount should you want to thread in another ball, I'm thinking maybe for a cup holder?



Secured the GPS in the cradle and it powers right up. Here's a view of the cockpit with the new Zumo in place.



And a view of the entire handlebar area just to give a size reference for the 590LM's rather large 5" screen.



And for the final test, does it send audio correctly? Obviously can't show you the sound coming through the speakers, but here's the proof that everything is working as it should. Whenever the Zumo makes a sound or gives driving directions, the music mutes and the mode indicator changes from whatever source you're listening to (iPod, XM, FM, etc.) into a black rectangle that says NAV. It works!



I'll save my overall impressions of the 590LM for another thread as this one is specifically about the install. That being said, I don't see why this install info wouldn't work for any GPS. Be it another model of Zumo, another product from the Garmin line, or even a unit from a different manufacturer, so long as the power is hardwired (or can be) and it has an audio out/headphone jack that can be tapped into.

In reading through the forums there really seems to be a lot of mystery regarding the Victory 660 mount and whether or not it is needed to tie a GPS into the factory stereo system. I would have to say no. While that may be the only way to get the factory style connector, I really don't think the system is that smart. It is simply looking for a proper audio source to be hooked up to the connector.

Hope this information is helpful to someone out there. I know I sure could have used it before dropping $800 on a GPS I wasn't totally sure was going to work. If you find a better (smaller) connector to use, please post up, especially if you find the mating connector for the factory plug! Let me know if you have any questions, and I'll do my best to answer them.

Edit: The factory connector has been found!!! See page 4 for details...
 

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I love the play by play, well done sir!

I have a Garmin 665 with weather installed on my 13 XCT, the factory plug Bike and factory plug Garmin made the install great. I did have to swap the "mother Board" inside the mount.
I am wondering if the 590 mount uses the same "mother board"?
The 660/665 mount has two rows of pins I am curious if the 590 mount internals are close to the same as the 665.

Great write up!thumb up
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I can't say for certain as I've never owned a 660/665, but I have read posts from others who have and they've stated that the cradles have different dimensions. As for the motherboard, I can tell you that the 590 has two rows of 9 pins each (total of 18 pins) but I'm thinking the boards might be different sizes due to the differences in the cradles. Here's a couple pictures of the board I found on ADVrider, look the same?



And a more distant shot to show the entire cradle/board assembly:

 

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The boards are different dimensions, but the connectors look the same... Humm got me thinking now.
 

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Great write-up and song selection, but Banana Wind is my fave on that "album".cheers
 

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Nice write-up, Tony.
 

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I looked around to try to find the mate connector to the factory GPS harness but had no luck. It would be very convenient if we could determine who makes it and where to buy the other end.

One thing I found during my attempt to use the GPS input as an aux audio input was that the pin-ended jumper cables from a standard electronics breadboard work perfectly to insert into the GPS harness connector. A person could easily fab up their own connections with a few of those soldered to whatever type of harness they wanted to configure. Then just tape it up with electrical tape or shrink wrap and it would be done. That was my plan B, until I encountered the next issue...

Another thing I found is that the audio input does not function like you think it would regarding stereo. Even though there are input pins marked with R+, L+, and audio (-), you cannot get stereo input to work. The channels will merge. I think Vic does this so that even if a GPS is sending out mono directions it will come out all speakers. This is too bad, because the GPS input would make a very convenient input harness for another audio input like a cell phone, complete with power supply. However, at highway speeds I'm not sure stereo separation really exists out of the speakers since they are fairly close together and background noise levels are high, so perhaps this doesn't matter to everyone.

In the end, I just used the Vic 3.5mm audio input plug pigtail hooked direct to the normal audio input connector under the fairing and ran a 3.5mm extension up my handlebars to my phone (mounted in a RAM X-Grip mount on a Kuryakyn chrome ring w/RAM ball). I had already run a Battery Tender cigarette lighter outlet up under the fairing too, so I used a USB adapter and ran a USB cord to the phone to power it. Pretty nice setup, in my opinion.

Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Wow! Would you consider making some for those of us "less talented" people?
Sorry, too time consuming, I've already got a day job. That and you'd still have to do the bike end of the connector yourself, unless of course you wanted to ship your bike to me to use for a few weeks... :D

Nice write-up, Tony.
Thanks, means a lot coming from the king of write-ups! thumb up

Great write-up and song selection, but Banana Wind is my fave on that "album".cheers
Like that one too, but always makes me feel like I'm stuck in an elevator in a tropical locale. Not to mention it looked kind of funny when I took the first picture and it said "Banana Wind" twice. Didn't think it was a good example of the display capabilities. Plus, my wife used "School Boy Heart" as kind of a theme for my 30th birthday and it has stuck with me. Can't believe that was almost 10 years ago now...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
One thing I found during my attempt to use the GPS input as an aux audio input was that the pin-ended jumper cables from a standard electronics breadboard work perfectly to insert into the GPS harness connector. A person could easily fab up their own connections with a few of those soldered to whatever type of harness they wanted to configure. Then just tape it up with electrical tape or shrink wrap and it would be done.
Good idea! That would allow you to keep your factory connector intact. Only downside would be that it wouldn't leave you with an easily removable connection. Probably wouldn't be a big deal having to re-tape/re-heatshrink it given the fact that you would hardly ever have reason to break the connection in the first place.

Another thing I found is that the audio input does not function like you think it would regarding stereo. Even though there are input pins marked with R+, L+, and audio (-), you cannot get stereo input to work. The channels will merge. I think Vic does this so that even if a GPS is sending out mono directions it will come out all speakers.
I saw mention of this somewhere else and had been thinking about it. It just didn't make sense they would have split the channels on the harness just to combine them. Here's my theory... I think this depends on your stereo's AUX settings. There is a standard "AUX" mode and there is a "NAV MP3" mode which can be toggled when you have AUX selected as the source. The very last page of the owner's manual (in the Navigation MP3 Operation Tips section) says "For best sound quality, change the AUX mode setting on the radio from AUX to NAV MP3 when listening to the MP3 player. Audio works in the AUX setting, but the levels are not optimized." Now it doesn't straight out tell you that there's a switch between mono and stereo when changing modes, but I'm guessing it may have something to do with it. Can you re-create the test you did that led to your discovery of the channels being merged in order to test this theory? Or tell me what you did so I can test it?

In the end, I just used the Vic 3.5mm audio input plug pigtail hooked direct to the normal audio input connector under the fairing and ran a 3.5mm extension up my handlebars to my phone.
The other thing to remember is the GPS connector leads have the advantage of being wired such that they interrupt all other sources when they receive NAV information. The normal audio input doesn't have this capability, though I guess it doesn't matter if you're using your phone for both NAV and music as it will interrupt itself.
 

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Nice blow by blow. I too used that 5 pin plug/socket. EBay and it came with the tool. it is indeed a big gommy thing, too bg for its purpose and its location, but it does the job.

I routed the excess wiring into the shroud along with the mess that Victory stuffs in there. I mounted the antenna by the brake reservoir and left its connector exposed under the bars so that I can take the 665 with me and use off the bike.

You would do well to revisit the shroud after some miles because it really is 10 pounds of cowpies in a 5 pound carry on. I found settling had created rubbing that would eventually have become exposed wire.

There has been considerable back and forth about how to wire these gizmos. Seems plain as day. Here's the leads on the GPS. Here's the Victory harness. Mate and enjoy.
 

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I saw mention of this somewhere else and had been thinking about it. It just didn't make sense they would have split the channels on the harness just to combine them. Here's my theory... I think this depends on your stereo's AUX settings. There is a standard "AUX" mode and there is a "NAV MP3" mode which can be toggled when you have AUX selected as the source. The very last page of the owner's manual (in the Navigation MP3 Operation Tips section) says "For best sound quality, change the AUX mode setting on the radio from AUX to NAV MP3 when listening to the MP3 player. Audio works in the AUX setting, but the levels are not optimized." Now it doesn't straight out tell you that there's a switch between mono and stereo when changing modes, but I'm guessing it may have something to do with it. Can you re-create the test you did that led to your discovery of the channels being merged in order to test this theory? Or tell me what you did so I can test it?
I was testing with a 3.5mm male/female extension cord that I had cut the female end off of. I had soldered on the jumper pin ends for R(+), L(+), and GND in anticipation of making the connection like I described earlier. What I used as a source was a YouTube video on my phone that was a test for right & left channels. I tried many combinations of connecting it and so did one other guy here. Sometimes I'd just get one channel on one side and sometimes both channels would merge to both speakers. Nothing worked for true stereo output. I forget the combinations at this point. I didn't know about the setting in the stereo itself so I never messed with that. I can't go back and test easily because I eventually re-used that extension as the main input to my normal Aux-In connection.

Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I was testing with a 3.5mm male/female extension cord that I had cut the female end off of. I had soldered on the jumper pin ends for R(+), L(+), and GND in anticipation of making the connection like I described earlier. What I used as a source was a YouTube video on my phone that was a test for right & left channels. I tried many combinations of connecting it and so did one other guy here. Sometimes I'd just get one channel on one side and sometimes both channels would merge to both speakers. Nothing worked for true stereo output. I forget the combinations at this point. I didn't know about the setting in the stereo itself so I never messed with that. I can't go back and test easily because I eventually re-used that extension as the main input to my normal Aux-In connection.
Sounds reasonable. I was wondering how you did it without a "balance" setting on the stereo. Next time I have my fairing open (should be soon, just waiting on a switch to finish my driving light install) I'll give it a try. I should be able to just unplug the 3.5mm connector I used in this write-up from the remainder of the Garmin harness and test it with my phone as you did. I'll report back when I get the chance.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
i believe these are JST / JWPF Series 2.0mm Waterproof Connectors. i order some from the link below to match em up. i hate cutting into the stock harnesses

http://www.digikey.com/ptm/PTMPartList.page?site=us&lang=en&ptm=11101
Nice find! You sir are the man, that's got to be them. Looks like part numbers (05R-JWPF-HHLE-D) and (05T-JWPF-HHLE-D) are the matching set. Also looks like the audio/iPod connectors are also in that same series for anybody that wants to play around with making a splitter. Let me know when you find out for sure if they are the correct ones so I can update the write-up. Too bad the half we need is the $9.70 part rather than the $1.59 part...





Think I'll be ordering up a pair of these and returning my bike's harness to stock!

Update: I've got my own set on order right now, looking forward to seeing if they work. Bet soldering the pins will be a challenge as small as these connectors are.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Parts arrived in the mail this morning. Confirmed! These are the right parts to mate up with the factory GPS connector. Thanks again for tracking these down Metalb00! Write-up update to follow...
 
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