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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I recently bought a 13 xct for riding solo with the trunk removed and to keep the mileage down on my 2012 xct that we ride 2up on. The 2103 xct was soooo much more responsive in the corners that i thought that it was because i was riding solo.
Went back home and took out the 2012 and there was so much difference in the ride and handling, that i brought it in to the dealer to check out if there was something wrong. The dealer told me that after riding 2 up for 16,000 k ( 10,000 ) miles, the tires had gone square and flat (not round). I replaced both tires with the same oem elite 3s and the difference was amazing. It rode just like the 13 xct. Anyone else have to change tires at 10,000 when riding 2up always??? I inflate to 36 /38 with 12 lbs in rear shock
 

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If you are riding 2-up alot on your 2012 then you probably need to up the pressure 2 pounds in each tire, especially the back. The rear shock seems kind of low to me. I usually run mine at 45 lbs most of the time because I ride 2-up about 70% of the time. I lower my shock to about 25 lbs when it will just be me riding for extended periods.
 

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... Anyone else have to change tires at 10,000 when riding 2up always??? I inflate to 36 /38 with 12 lbs in rear shock
Yes, I cannot get the oem Dunlop tires to last more than 10,000 miles on my XR, and about 75% of my riding is solo. I keep my tires at 38 PSI (front) and 40 PSI (rear). cheers
 

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The dealer told me that after riding 2 up for 16,000 k ( 10,000 ) miles, the tires had gone square and flat (not round). I replaced both tires with the same oem elite 3s and the difference was amazing. It rode just like the 13 xct. Anyone else have to change tires at 10,000 when riding 2up always???
I had to replace the E3s at ~11k doing mostly solo riding.

But your post brings up a great point. A lot of things happen so gradually on bikes, we just adapt. Tire wear and fork oil are two that can make a drastic difference in ride quality.

People often change brands of tires and get all giddy that they've found the new gold standard of rim protectors. In actuality, they've simply forgotten how well their bike behaved back when their worn tires were new.
 

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...People often change brands of tires and get all giddy that they've found the new gold standard of rim protectors. In actuality, they've simply forgotten how well their bike behaved back when their worn tires were new.
Wise words, amigo! cheers Although I am still craving longer lasting tires. :)
 

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I recently bought a 13 xct for riding solo with the trunk removed and to keep the mileage down on my 2012 xct that we ride 2up on.
Care to float me a loan? Sounds like it would be pocket change for you. :D
 

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I have 23000 KILOMETRES on my tires and they are due for replacement. With the dual compound I do notice more vibration especially turning to the right also more noise from the tires.

That's life, I notice the same when I get new tires on my car.
 

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The only way you can get longer tire life is check your air the first of every month and when it gets into the mid 90's every two weeks.
I don't care if you have a 250 pound bike or like mine a 800 pound plus bike.
My last E3's I had 15 thousand on them and I ran 40 psi front and rear.
Check them when cold and do not use a pencil gauge there junk. Buy a real gauge and to check it check your air shock if you have one.
You will see the three or four pound loss every moth.
 

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But your post brings up a great point. A lot of things happen so gradually on bikes, we just adapt. Tire wear and fork oil are two that can make a drastic difference in ride quality..
Fork oil is something that is not brought up much but when I brought my new XR home and then hopped on my M50 I could tell a world of difference in how soft front forks were compared to the Vic. My fork oil was needing replaced but didn't really ever notice it.
 

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My boss used to be a motorcycle mechanic and rides one of them bmw touring bikes. I asked him about tires the other day, and he told me that he likes michelin tires the best on his bike. Says they usually last him a pretty decent amount of miles and whatnot
 

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I run 40 psi front and back. I got 2 nails about an inch apart on my rear at 6k and replaced it with the same OEM tire. Now I have 15k and just change the front tire and fork oil. On the advice of a Winger, I switched to Bridgestone G709 for the front. I haven't hit any serious corners yet but the front is handling just fine. I wasn't sure if I would take a hit mixing new and old tires, especially since they're different make.

The rear still has around 6k or so left on it but I plan on putting on the G704 when the time comes. But that run flat looks enticing as well :rolleyes:
 

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Call me anal. I check my tires every 2 days with a top quality gauge. Threw away 3 cheap Digital gauges when I found that all would vary each time I used them. Each day I will eyeball the tires for foreign objects on mine as well as other cycles traveling with me. Got 17k out of the last E3's on my last bike, a Wing. Did not watch the pressure on a long ride and should have had a few thousand more. I expect 15k or more out of my OEM E3's on the CCT.
Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The only way you can get longer tire life is check your air the first of every month and when it gets into the mid 90's every two weeks.
I don't care if you have a 250 pound bike or like mine a 800 pound plus bike.
My last E3's I had 15 thousand on them and I ran 40 psi front and rear.
Check them when cold and do not use a pencil gauge there junk. Buy a real gauge and to check it check your air shock if you have one.
You will see the three or four pound loss every moth.
where can you buy this accu gage Vision Johnny?
 

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I had to replace the E3s at ~11k doing mostly solo riding.

But your post brings up a great point. A lot of things happen so gradually on bikes, we just adapt. Tire wear and fork oil are two that can make a drastic difference in ride quality.

People often change brands of tires and get all giddy that they've found the new gold standard of rim protectors. In actuality, they've simply forgotten how well their bike behaved back when their worn tires were new.
Exactly! thumb up
 

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I've been keeping an eye on those Bridgestones myself. My wife's Shadow has Excedras on it, and that back tire just keeps plugging along. I replaced the Dunlop D404 on the rear of my Vulcan with an Excedra, and liked it quite a bit.
 

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The only way you can get longer tire life is check your air the first of every month and when it gets into the mid 90's every two weeks.
I don't care if you have a 250 pound bike or like mine a 800 pound plus bike.
My last E3's I had 15 thousand on them and I ran 40 psi front and rear.
Check them when cold and do not use a pencil gauge there junk. Buy a real gauge and to check it check your air shock if you have one.
You will see the three or four pound loss every moth.
Great information. Another wild card is the type of road surface we ride on. MN & IA are mostly asphalt and concrete roads. A lot of states run chip seal oil roads and they can eat a tire in no time. cheers
 

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where can you buy this accu gage Vision Johnny?
stop by a auto parts store see what they have and ask what they think. I went to three stores before I found what I liked. Take your shock pump put say 40 psi in your shock and then see what your tire gauge reads. I think its a good way to check gauge
 

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I think it's pretty amazing that the original poster bought a second CCT to ride one up and save miles on his OTHER CCT.:not worthy::not worthy::not worthy:
 
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