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Read on this forum about the oil getting to many miles and making the bike hard to shift. Never had a bike do this,so did not buy into it. Had already gotten my oil to do the next oil change I was just waiting for free time to do it. The bike had only had the original 500 mile dealer oil change done. My 2011 XR says you can go 5000 miles I believe on the oil change so thought no big deal it almost has 3000 miles on the oil. Made a run down to the drug store the other night. Thought on the way man this thing is getting harder to shift, then I remembered what the forum had said about the hard shifting when the oil got old. So went ahead and installed new oil in it (not Victory oil). Took it for a ride,yes it shifts and IMO sounds better. Time will tell how this oil holds up.:crzy:
 

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I don't want to start another interminable oil thread here, but am curious as to which oil you put in. I have been using a full synthetic with good results. BTW, recommended oil change intervals are for IDEAL conditions. Since hardly anyone drives / rides under ideal conditions, you were wise to not wait out the full 5,000 miles.
 

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For riders who find that the majority of their riding is city driving bikes should a a severe and normal schedule for oil changes but they don't. IMHO this is because the problem may not be the oil, it may be that you ned a clutch cable adjustment. I've found that during Oct-Mar I ride almost exclusively in the city (too friggen cold on the highway) and my shifting does get harder. Every year I start with trying to extend my arm up time and when that doesn't work I adjust the clutch cable. I use the "A" oil and do changes at 7500 but I start getting a little resistance around 5000 that so far has been corrected with the cable adjustment.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Not an oil thread.

That's why I did not mention the oil. I went ahead and got the 10w-40 Amsoil motorcycle oil. Had very good luck with the Amsoil 20w-50 in my air/oil cooled Triumph Speedmaster. I put almost 74K on that bike and never changed the clutch,which they are known to have weak clutches. It also never burned oil. In the desert SW it makes me feel better running the synthetic oil, though in other bikes I ran plane old dino oil. The other bikes were all old beater bikes that did not take such a large investment to own.:crzy:
 

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Read on this forum about the oil getting to many miles and making the bike hard to shift. Never had a bike do this,so did not buy into it. Had already gotten my oil to do the next oil change I was just waiting for free time to do it. The bike had only had the original 500 mile dealer oil change done. My 2011 XR says you can go 5000 miles I believe on the oil change so thought no big deal it almost has 3000 miles on the oil. Made a run down to the drug store the other night. Thought on the way man this thing is getting harder to shift, then I remembered what the forum had said about the hard shifting when the oil got old. So went ahead and installed new oil in it (not Victory oil). Took it for a ride,yes it shifts and IMO sounds better. Time will tell how this oil holds up.:crzy:
So oil gets old your bike shifts gatd you say. So how does oil know its old.
:ltr: :ltr: :ltr: :ltr: :ltr:
 

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So oil gets old your bike shifts gatd you say. So how does oil know its old.
:ltr: :ltr: :ltr: :ltr: :ltr:
I know, I know. Without getting too heavy in to it. Multi viscosity oil will lose its viscosity from shear (or is it sheer?), anyway it becomes thinner to the characteristics of the "thinner" oil. 10W-40 breaks down to the 10 base. It does this because the additive package has molecules that start out curled up and straighten with heat causing the heavier viscosity character. If you beat these curling molecules up and break or cut them, the oil doesn't thicken like it did when new.

That is how oil knows it is old, in a nut shell.

I have a question. Is the clutch a boosted system? If it is that may answer some questions. The thinner oil won't boost like the thicker. Other than that I wonder how thinner is worse than thicker..

Crazy stuff.
 

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the additive package has molecules that start out curled up and straighten with heat causing the heavier viscosity character. If you beat these curling molecules up and break or cut them, the oil doesn't thicken like it did when new.Crazy stuff.
Aha! So they are like little spiders that get their legs cut off in the gears...is that it? :crzy:
 
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