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I just did mine on my 2014 Cross Country Tour, you have to take the front header pipe off and in order to do that the entire exhaust had to be removed.
It took me a day to remove it, change the starter and put it all back together. I work slow and take lots of breaks.
Before putting it back together I cleaned all the exhaust joints and applied copper anti-seize.
You are going to have to remove the oil filter as well so you may as well do an oil change after.
Let me know if I can help you with this.
.
 

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I just did mine on my 2014 Cross Country Tour, you have to take the front header pipe off and in order to do that the entire exhaust had to be removed.
It took me a day to remove it, change the starter and put it all back together. I work slow and take lots of breaks.
Before putting it back together I cleaned all the exhaust joints and applied copper anti-seize.
You are going to have to remove the oil filter as well so you may as well do an oil change after.
Let me know if I can help you with this.
.
Paul did you open your starter up and have a look inside? Had water gotten into it?
 

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Paul did you open your starter up and have a look inside? Had water gotten into it?
I haven't opened it yet but I am going to. It's sitting on my bench right now.
The symptoms were that it would turn once and stop. I would release the button and try again and it might start or it would turn once and stop again.
I figured before it leaves me stranded I should change it.
It seemed to start this after I was caught in a massive hail storm, so it might have gotten wet inside.
It might make a good video to open it up and see inside.
 

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Being either lazy or efficient, I found a way to remove just the front cylinder header pipe without removing anything else. I shoulda made a video, but had not idea when I began, I would succeed. The key was cutting away a bit of the battery box with my trusty Harbor Freight mini sawz-all. That provided the clearance needed to slide the pipe forward and out of the pipe aft of it. The black rectangular thingy held by the screw and fender washer is a fuse block.
 

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Before we yank our starter out, what is the condition of the battery?
 

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Before we yank our starter out, what is the condition of the battery?
Knowing Paul, I bet he's checked that already.
 

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Before taking the effort to remove the starter just to see what's wrong with it, if anything, try removing the spark plugs and hitting the starter. If it spins OK, then there might be a bit of hydraulic lock. Or maybe it is a weak starter. Bad brushes?
 

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you can get bearings at a bearing store. Take old bearings so they can get numbers off them.
Here you can find brushes you'll have to look for the size and shape you need.
Automotive electrical repair shop can rebuild it better then new. youtube has videos on starters you have to find one thats close to a vic starter. some times you have to hit the starter with a rubber hammer to get it to pop loose

Eurton Electric Online Store: Brushes
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for the idea. We had to take the exhaust off anyway because I was replacing the back tire too, but we did the same modification on the battery box because it made it easier to put the front header pipe back on. And if this aftermarket starter dies I'll already have the cut made. Cheers

Being either lazy or efficient, I found a way to remove just the front cylinder header pipe without removing anything else. I shoulda made a video, but had not idea when I began, I would succeed. The key was cutting away a bit of the battery box with my trusty Harbor Freight mini sawz-all. That provided the clearance needed to slide the pipe forward and out of the pipe aft of it. The black rectangular thingy held by the screw and fender washer is a fuse block.
 

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Thanks for the idea. We had to take the exhaust off anyway because I was replacing the back tire too, but we did the same modification on the battery box because it made it easier to put the front header pipe back on. And if this aftermarket starter dies I'll already have the cut made. Cheers
Just for future reference, you don't have to take the exhaust off to remove the rear wheel.
I have a video on that too.
Click here to watch it.
Hope this helps.
.
 

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Being either lazy or efficient, I found a way to remove just the front cylinder header pipe without removing anything else. I shoulda made a video, but had not idea when I began, I would succeed. The key was cutting away a bit of the battery box with my trusty Harbor Freight mini sawz-all. That provided the clearance needed to slide the pipe forward and out of the pipe aft of it. The black rectangular thingy held by the screw and fender washer is a fuse block.
That is an excellent idea. This shows that we all benefit from others on this site.
Well done @RICZ and thank you - I am definitely doing this the next time.
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That is an excellent idea. This shows that we all benefit from others on this site.
Well done @RICZ and thank you - I am definitely doing this the next time.
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If you don't have anything attached to that side of the battery box, as I do, that cutaway can be more generous for greater ease of removing the front pipe.
 

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put in new exhaust gaskets. Never reuse old ones cause they more then likely leak on you
 

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put in new exhaust gaskets. Never reuse old ones cause they more then likely leak on you
I did not have new replacements at hand, so I turned the used one around as it looked like it would work and so far, so good. I replaced the OE ones a long time ago with Lloydz squishy ones and it still looked to be pliable. Ordering a pair for the next time.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
New starter was $87 with good reviews so I went with that to save time from having the oem one fixed. Thing spins like it's on viagra, oem one never spun like this.
 

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New starter was $87 with good reviews so I went with that to save time from having the oem one fixed. Thing spins like it's on viagra, oem one never spun like this.
From where did you get it? Got a link?
 
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