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Discussion Starter #1
2014 CC with the HID Victory Headlight Upgrade. Last night the low beam bulb burned out. Made it home on my Clearwater Darla LED lights with no problems. If I remember correctly, all that I have to replace is the low beam bulb portion of the HID Headlight. My question is; should I stay with the HID lights or consider going to LED's for my main light. Personally I'm OK with the Victory HID Upgrade but could the LED's possibly last a bit longer? I have 14K miles on my bike. Also what's the general costs involved to go from HID to LED? Thanks for your advice.
 

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One of the deciding factors for me switching to LEDs for my mains was the perceived reliability. We'll see how that works out in the future :)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Broggyr, thanks for the input. I've called the dealer here for a price quote on the HID vs. LED's. On a side note, I see you're from Naugatuck. I'm originally from Seymour. Does Naugatuck and Seymour still play football on Thanksgiving?
 

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Are those Darlas not the best lights ever?
Paul did a youtube comparison with the LED options as well as the HID, I'd stick with the HID personally. I've got 25k(2012) on my HID with no issues, not sure what would cause one to fail so quickly.
 

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On a side note, I see you're from Naugatuck. I'm originally from Seymour. Does Naugatuck and Seymour still play football on Thanksgiving?
It's been Naugatuck vs. Ansonia for as long as I remember. They always kick our ass lol
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The service department at my dealer tells me that the entire HID light is a sealed unit and therefore has to be entirely replaced at a substantial cost. They are currently researching other options. I thought for sure, when I upgraded by light with the Victory HID they just added the HID bulbs with ballasts. Does anyone here know for sure? Would anyone have a link to the low beam HID replacement bulb?
 

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Is your HID an OEM unit (sealed) or does it have H11 "replacement" HID bulbs in it? I was running the "VictoryHID" aftermarket lamps for a while, good units and bright.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Mine I believe is the OEM unit. When I bought the bike in 2014, Victory offered a HID upgrade. You could replace the low beam or both low and high. I replaced both. Now it's the low beam that is burned out.

I found this link after talking with the service manager;https://victoryhid.com/s/
I'm thinking this is what I need. Any thoughts?
 

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Best bet for light performance and cost is @CrossRoads VICTORY HID system.
Unsurpassed lighting when you really need to see where you are going at speed.
 

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Mine I believe is the OEM unit. When I bought the bike in 2014, Victory offered a HID upgrade. You could replace the low beam or both low and high. I replaced both. Now it's the low beam that is burned out.

I found this link after talking with the service manager;https://victoryhid.com/s/
I'm thinking this is what I need. Any thoughts?
Yep, that's the one!
Blue spectrum gives great oncoming vehicle daytime visibility too!
Only trick is when starting turn ignition on then wait a few seconds while fuel pump primes before hitting the engine start button.
Also first time you go from low to high beam there'll be a slight delay while the ballast amps up, once initialised it's no problem switching from one to the other.
A small price to pay for excellent night riding visibility when there's furry creatures about!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Some good news. Heard back from the dealer. The HID bulb through Victory HID has a lifetime warranty. The dealer will send in the blown one and I'll get a new one free. Thanks for all who chimed in to help.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Several weeks ago I wrote about my low beam headlight blowing out. With delays in shipping from the huricane I finally go my new light bulb last week and it still didn't work. It turned out to be the HID ballast that went bad, which has been ordered. My question; is there anything in starting the bike that causes unusual stress to the headlight/ballast? I read somewhere where you should wait 5secs or so between turning on the ike to hitting the starter. Is there any truth behind that statement? Thanks.
 

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Several weeks ago I wrote about my low beam headlight blowing out. With delays in shipping from the huricane I finally go my new light bulb last week and it still didn't work. It turned out to be the HID ballast that went bad, which has been ordered. My question; is there anything in starting the bike that causes unusual stress to the headlight/ballast? I read somewhere where you should wait 5secs or so between turning on the ike to hitting the starter. Is there any truth behind that statement? Thanks.
Yes, you should wait till the fuel pump has finished priming before hitting the starter, you'll hear when the fuel pump stops,
also don't jab the starter hold in in till the engine fires.
some also advocate holding the throttle open slightly whilst starting to lessen the chance of a backfire wrecking the starter clutch.

Unless of course its a full moon and you wish to ride without your headlight, just by the light of the silvery moon, thus reducing the chance of zombie, werewolf or vampire attack:devil... then hit the starter as soon as you turn the key and the headlight wont light up.
 
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Several weeks ago I wrote about my low beam headlight blowing out. With delays in shipping from the huricane I finally go my new light bulb last week and it still didn't work. It turned out to be the HID ballast that went bad, which has been ordered. My question; is there anything in starting the bike that causes unusual stress to the headlight/ballast? I read somewhere where you should wait 5secs or so between turning on the ike to hitting the starter. Is there any truth behind that statement? Thanks.
Yes, @Motorbikerx is correct. Especially about the zombies!
If you start the bike too soon after turning on the key, the voltage drop from the starter will be enough to shut the HID off until it has warmed up enough. I usually counted to '6' after turning on the key before starting the bike.

I don't have that issue now with the LEDs :D
 
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Yes, @Motorbikerx is correct. Especially about the zombies!
If you start the bike too soon after turning on the key, the voltage drop from the starter will be enough to shut the HID off until it has warmed up enough. I usually counted to '6' after turning on the key before starting the bike.

I don't have that issue now with the LEDs :D
so how do you deal with zombies on full moon nights if you cant kill your headlight?
 

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I just switch all power to front deflector screens.
 
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