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Discussion Starter #1
Well , everything was going great with adding my S&S intake to my kingpin until I needed to put my tank back on. I then realized that in my effort to take the tank off in the initial tear down, fuel had spilled out from the cap and run down the top of the tank. Not knowing this, I put the tank aside for almost 7 days waiting for my intake to come in and then finally putting it all back together. Now, it looks like the stain is under the clear coat?? There is no blistering of paint, it feels smooth to the touch.

Does anyone have any idea with how to successfully remove these stains. It sucks, cause my paint job is factory Ness PURPLE HAZE and now i have these deep reddish stains raining down from the filler cap!!!!!!!

So far, Ive tried rubbing compound "lightly" and nothing.
Any Help would be truely appreciated.
 

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I am a detailer on the side and normally gas will not do to much damage as long as it is not an on going thing. In your case I do not know if the gas leaked the full seven days or if just leaked the first.

Anyway, without pics all I can do is suggest what I would do. Rubbing coumpound is a cleaner and has very little cutting capability. You need to be a little more aggressive... I will explain.

Do you have access to a DA (dual action) polisher? If you are not experianced DO NOT use a rotary, you will burn right through clear coat and paint in seconds!!!!!

If you can not get a DA then go by hand but it will not give you the same results....

What you will need:

Quick misting detial spray (this is the liquid wax you use between waxing)
Detailers clay
Cutting compound (this is not the same as rubbing compound)
Polish
Wax

If you have a DA you will need:

Cutting Pad
Polish Pad
Finish Pad

First wash the tank then use the detailing mist to lube the surface area you are about to clay. Clay the whole tank this way and be sure to use microfiber towels and lots of them. The worst thing you can do is use dirty towels.

Then you are going to want to cut. Cutting is a microabrasion for you paint. Some cutting compound is more aggresive the others but with a DA it is very hard for someone to screw up their paint beyond what I can fix. A rotary buffer....within seconds you can be looking at steel!!!! PM me if you want to know more about what type of cutting compounds to use.

THen you change your pad and use polish. Polish is going to put back the oils into your paint that will make the whole bike look uniform. What people do not relize is that paint has layers just like skin. Clear coat failure is a result of the clear coat being abused and not being nurished. Thus it seperates from the paint. Polish is like lotion it keeps things nicy nicy! Gas has oils and what you are seeing is were the clear coat got to nicy nicy....

After polish you want to protect your work and keep gas from hurting you again. This is were we wax and we always use at least 3 coats. Not all wax is the same... do not use that **** that says it lasts a year. Garbage!!! Your may choices are poly style wax and natural wax. With your bike being purple you are better off going with a natural wax - it will make that purple pop!!!!

Again PM me if you want to know brand names or what to get. This is fixable but you are going to need to spend some money doing it but not near the amount for a repaint.

If you do not want to buy this stuff. FInd a dedicated detailer that REALLY knows his ****!!! Do not use the carwash people. It will cost a little more but you know it will get done right!!!!! Ask him what his process will be, if it is the same as mine, then he is doing it right, regardless of brand names. If I was there I would use the rotoary to cut your paint but I have years working paint and body.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It's hard to get a good photo showing the stains. They appear a deep reddish color on the purple. The photo shows several streaks.

The gas only leaked for about a half a day and then remained on the paint without dripping for about 7 days. I had torn apart the bike in preparation of the intake coming. Took longer then I thought to get here but it was about 8 days total that the fuel was on the paint.
 

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the positive thing is that it looks like it streaked and barley leaked. This means that it was not a huge amount and most evapurated before it may have done any real damage.

Belive it or not but hard water can etch your clear coat on a summer day faster then gas!!!

Take a crack at what I said and you will be suprised. If you do not have the stuff I was telling you about pick up some Meguiars Ultimate Compound (UC) from Wallmart. UC or ScratchX are some moderate cutting compounds that work better then standard rubbing compound that has cleaning agents in it. I would go for the UC first, you can also pick up a meguiars clay kit, and NXT wax. if you do not have a DA then use your hand and use tight small circles. DO NOT WORRY ABOUT PRESSING HARD!!!! You want pressure and your hand can not build up the heat necessary to burn through clear coat. SO put some elbow grease into it...


The NXT is a poly wax that last a little longer then what I would us but you can layer it pretty easy if you are a novice and agian it last longer.

I would use a pure carnauba due to the nurishing. Also, you can pick up Meguiars stage 2 polish...maroon bottle...

Mequiars is about as good as you can get from Walmart, AutoZone etc....

Good luck and if you have any questions about what to do PM me.

BSD
 
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