It sounds to me like the problem is in your master cylinder.
HELP!!! Rear brake nightmare
Ok so my original rear caliper locked up and fried my brake pads, rotor and caliper, replaced all and found a used caliper on ebay, reassembled and bench tested and it released fine until the test ride and it got stuck again.... the pins were polished and reinstalled.
What are my options?
Which company makes a suitable replacement?
Does wildwood make one that fits?
What are my options?
Which company makes a suitable replacement?
Does wildwood make one that fits?
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Air in the system will also cause this. As will caliper pistons that are unable to move freely from corrosion, dirt or damage.
The pistons in the caliper have to be free to move. The master cylinder valving has to be operating correctly, and their needs to be absolutely zero air in the lines and caliper for the pistons to retract properly.
As far as bleeding.
Often you need to reposition calipers during bleeding to get the bleeder up if you have been unable to get the air out of the system bleeding them in place. Take the caliper loose and place a spacer roughly the thickness of the disk between the pads. Must be at least as long as the pads. Then look carefully at the caliper and try to determine where the passage that connects the bleeder to the piston chamber likely enters the caliper bore and hold the caliper so that that is up . Tilt the caliper so that the last bit of air will go out that port when you bleed the caliper.
Air can become trapped at the pressure switch also and they can fail and allow air into the system though this is quite rare. But loose switches aren’t as rare.
Also check the master cylinder for any sign of brake fluid seepage. If fluid is able to get out, air is definitely able to get in, same at the rear light switch.
The pistons in the caliper have to be free to move. The master cylinder valving has to be operating correctly, and their needs to be absolutely zero air in the lines and caliper for the pistons to retract properly.
As far as bleeding.
Often you need to reposition calipers during bleeding to get the bleeder up if you have been unable to get the air out of the system bleeding them in place. Take the caliper loose and place a spacer roughly the thickness of the disk between the pads. Must be at least as long as the pads. Then look carefully at the caliper and try to determine where the passage that connects the bleeder to the piston chamber likely enters the caliper bore and hold the caliper so that that is up . Tilt the caliper so that the last bit of air will go out that port when you bleed the caliper.
Air can become trapped at the pressure switch also and they can fail and allow air into the system though this is quite rare. But loose switches aren’t as rare.
Also check the master cylinder for any sign of brake fluid seepage. If fluid is able to get out, air is definitely able to get in, same at the rear light switch.
On auto applications the flexable lines rubber inside can deteriorate and actually acts like a one way check valve. You apply the brake and the rubber holds small amount of pressure on caliper. So way to check it is apply the brake, release and see if wheel spin free. If not open bleeder and see if fluid spurts out. If so the line is holding pressure and needs replaced.
Also check that the little return oriface in the master cylinder is not clogged. Had that happen to me and the brakes stayed engaged
I have had the same issue with myt 2013 Vegas 8 ball. It’s locaked up several times, and I found the fix for it, while on the road, is to jump on the brake hard and then get off it. Most times mine has released. First time it happened though, it took me a while to figure out what was wrong. I took the wheel cylinder and brake off and did about everything you have done, put it all back together and all was fine. My next step was going to be bleed the brakes, but it hasn’t happened again. It could be crap floating around in the master cylinder that blocks off return fluid, but I haven’t been able to determine that. Best way though, is to now suck the fluid out of the reservoir, and replenish it, and then bleed the brakes out.
Just reading your post once again. Looks like you are dealing with a master cylinder problem, as you have already swapped out the slave cylinder and pistons.
FWIW, the brakes on early V92C bikes were Brembo; I know they shared pads & hardware with other Brembo-equipped bikes. It might be that the calipers could cross to other applications, as well - I haven't researched caliper cross-references, though.
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
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