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Discussion Starter #1
First off I have always done all my work on all my bikes / cars so I am pretty mechanically inclined. In the process of swapping out my wheel for a 21" wheel / fender from Witchdoctor's. Watched the video just to make sure there wasn't anything I wasn't visually seeing before starting, looked pretty easy and straightforward. Went an bought a 5/8" allen head for the axle bolt as well. Got everything off and it was time for the axle bolt. Loosen the 2 pinch bolts and put 5/8" allen head in and it wasn't a really tight fit but didn't seem to be a problem. Well I put the tool all the way in start to turn ( counter-clockwise of course ), feels like its loosening but it just didn't feel right. Anyway after looking at it, it appears as if its starting to strip. Not all the way rounded but damn close.

NEED IDEAS PLEASE BEFORE I GO ANY FURTHER!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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This is happening during disassembly ?
 

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I wonder if it was assembled cross-threaded , either way all you can do is back it out , no tricks to it . I am pretty sure those have a fine thread and require lots of tuning for it to back out .

If it was mine I would just back it out and get a good look at it . I wonder if some galling occurred , or it may be fine ...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The problem is the inside of the Allen Head is almost rounded off. I'm not convinced that the 5/8" was the right size to begin with as it felt a little loose. Didn't know of anyone had any ideas besides an easy-out which may be my only choice. And hopefully that will work.
 

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Keeping the front tire on the bike while moving will help you to enjoy your riding experience. Obviously there was a problem during a past assembly. You indicated you can see the damage on one piece so it's already garbage. Get a bolt of the same size and thread and check the other. If you run into heavy resistance; replace it too. There are lots of places that you can chase the threads to fix them but I'd suggest that wheels are too important to trust to weakened parts.

*** Just read your followup post. Are the threads damaged or are you saying it's the head socket that's rounded? The bike is metric. 5/8 is barely close but no cigar. Proper tools bud. Get the right size and try again. If it's totally shot then you're into the usual repair procedures. And order a new bolt.
 

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Ahhhhh I gotcha now . You need to find the proper size that will go all the way in , preferably a socket type you can put a ratchet on ... I would definitely replace the axle when you install the new wheel ...
 

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Head socket is damaged.

get the correct size metric Allen wrench and see if you can break it loose. Then replace it
 

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At the recommendation of folks on this forum, I avoided buying the expensive and hard to find 16 mm Allen wrench and, instead, bought a real low cost 5/8" outer size coupling for threaded rods. It has a 5/8" size hexagonal outer surface and is threaded on the internal surface so that threaded rod can screw into it. This fits PERFECTLY into the axle nut socket. There is no slack at all even though this is 5/8". I know that the bike is supposed to be metric but heck, the fit is so perfect I wonder if the Allen socket on that front axle nut is 5/8" not 16 mm. Here is a link to the type of coupler I'm talking about although this is not necessarily the correct size: Rod Coupling Nuts - Nuts - Fasteners - Hardware - *The Home Depot

With about half of this coupler stuck into the axle not socket hole, I can put a normal socket on the portion extending out of the hole and then turn it with a socket driver or with a torque wrench.

G'day,

Vinish
 

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FWIW, 5/8" is about five-thousandths of an inch smaller than 16mm.

I've never messed with wheels and axles (a man's got to know his limitations), but it seems to me that, except in the realm of precision instruments or space capsules, 0.00492" is within manufacturing tolerances of many nuts, bolts, threads, hex keys, etc. So my guess is that there was earlier -- by the supplier? at the plant? at some shop? -- manufacturing defect or cross-threading or other screw-up along the line. Put another way, I don't think it's an issue of which of those two sizes is used.

But I could be completely wrong, of course. Just ask my first wife.
 

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they did change the wrench size from 5/8's to 14mm I believe in 2012.
long as its the socket size and not the axel you're in good shape
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I've done a lot of mods to this bike ( as well as the others I've had ) and it still amazes me how much over-torqued most of these bolts are from the factory. Victory, or whoever put my bike together went way overboard with torque and the use of red loctite.

I'll figure out a way to get the axle bolt off tonight, may end up having to use an easy-out but oh well.
 

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they did change the wrench size from 5/8's to 14mm I believe in 2012.
long as its the socket size and not the axel you're in good shape
I have the 14mm head on the axle of my "13"...I remember the first time I changed the front tire, that axle took a lot of pressure to turn :|
 

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Warm the threaded end w/ a heat gun, apply a penetrate and use an impact driver. If that did not work, you did not hear this from me.
 

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If...and only if all else fails , you could try hammering the next closest size up Allen key into the bolt.
Then turning that, possibly with the abovementioned, impact driver.
Use an ezy out as a last resort or you may end up in deeper ****.
I'm assuming you are talking about the axle pinch bolt as well as the larger bolt that joins to the axle.
I'm easily confused...
The smaller axle pinch bolts are made of cheese and would possibly benefit from being changed anyway.
 

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ok I found out they went to 16mm allen
get one and see if it will work.
easy out will be a lot of work.
Try finding a bolt HEAD that will fit tight into the socket. Even lightly hammer it in. Then double nut it and try getting axle loose and out
 

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I also had trouble removing my axle bolt. What I ended up using was a coupler nut and the impact gun. I first tried the head of the bolt and I twisted the bolts off so I went with the coupler nut.
 

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I am in Katy if you end up needing help.
 

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Hope you get it off so you can replace it. Don't know for sure but with the torque values mentioned I think an EZ Off will not be too "easy" if even possible. Keep us updated.
 
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