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Looking around at these for high beam only I use the high beam during the day and think this might be a good way to go. Anybody buy one of those plug and play kits? Any way of knowing what color temperature is the most noticeable?

Has this been discussed before I didn't find much in searches. I see the prices vary all over the place. Kits to buy and kits to avoid?
 

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I got mine from CrossRoads and don't recall the temp. I'm not one to ride around with my high beam on, so the HID is only for night riding and really helps with that. For daytime conspicuity, I have a PIAA extreme white in the low beam slot with a switchable Kisan modulator on it. I also have a pair of Clearwater high power LED Darla lights mounted low for that attention grabbing triangle of light. I find this arrangement better than pissing off oncoming with an HID in their face.
 

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I bought the high/low pkg from Crossroads. I purchased the 5000 Kelvin, it gives a bright white light. The higher temps give a blue light and effect the brightness. I have run them for two years now with no issue. He is great to deal with and you can't beat the price.
 

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Looking around at these for high beam only I use the high beam during the day and think this might be a good way to go. Anybody buy one of those plug and play kits? Any way of knowing what color temperature is the most noticeable?

Has this been discussed before I didn't find much in searches. I see the prices vary all over the place. Kits to buy and kits to avoid?
Good advice given by those above me... I also ordered from Crossroads (VictoryHID.com). I ordered the low beam in the 6000. It is very bright, and the light blue tint of the light is just different enough from every other headlight that I believe it gets noticed more by folks looking my way.

I feel it's a great alternative to running with brights during the day. It's pretty annoying when you're being followed for miles by a bike with it's brights on (especially if they are HID brights).
 

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I got mine off EBay. I replaced my low beam because I use my high beam for flashing those idiots that like to keep there high beams on. 5000K have the brightest white light. Make sure you get an AC unit. They last much longer than the DC. Just remember your stock bulb is 4300K which will look yellow when turned on with the HID. You can buy a Xenon gas bulb to match the color you choose for less than $10.00.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
OK so it looks like I need to go low beam I do ride during the day with my high beam on so I have a better chance of being noticed that's why I thought changing the high beam would be better.
 

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My son runs both HID and runs with the high beam on and I can pick him up right away in the mirror. I tried HID in my bike but I found two things I did not like. One is the 5000k id WHITE. The white road signs looked like flash bulbs when I rode at night. The other thing is the bulbs are longer and you loose the beam from the light and it just puts light everywhere (road signs). It seemed to me the unfocused light did not help me see better at night. Others may say different, just my opinion
 

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I got mine off EBay. I replaced my low beam because I use my high beam for flashing those idiots that like to keep there high beams on. 5000K have the brightest white light. Make sure you get an AC unit. They last much longer than the DC. Just remember your stock bulb is 4300K which will look yellow when turned on with the HID. You can buy a Xenon gas bulb to match the color you choose for less than $10.00.
+1 Batman raised a very good point--something I knew and should have added in my post... From what I've read, the 5000 puts out the brightest light for night time riding -- brighter than the 6000. However, I am happy I bought the 6000 because I like the blue tint during the day and ride a limited amount at night... I would probably also buy a 5000 if I had to ride a lot in the dark...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
My son runs both HID and runs with the high beam on and I can pick him up right away in the mirror. I tried HID in my bike but I found two things I did not like. One is the 5000k id WHITE. The white road signs looked like flash bulbs when I rode at night. The other thing is the bulbs are longer and you loose the beam from the light and it just puts light everywhere (road signs). It seemed to me the unfocused light did not help me see better at night. Others may say different, just my opinion
Good points.

I got mine off EBay. I replaced my low beam because I use my high beam for flashing those idiots that like to keep there high beams on. 5000K have the brightest white light. Make sure you get an AC unit. They last much longer than the DC. Just remember your stock bulb is 4300K which will look yellow when turned on with the HID. You can buy a Xenon gas bulb to match the color you choose for less than $10.00.
Don't the gas bulbs draw more power and run hot?
 

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My Kingpin takes a 35 watt low beam and a 55w high. The 35w HID runs cooler than the standard bulb. I haven't seen any difference in the temp using the Xenon for high beam.
 

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I have bought them off the "internet" too. I found the quality of the ballast to be extremely inferior to the ones that are sold on the forum here.
 

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I have HID for both low and high beams. While they are superior for brightness, they take 20-30 seconds to 'warm up' . They are no good for flash-to-pass.

Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 

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Looking around at these for high beam only I use the high beam during the day and think this might be a good way to go. Anybody buy one of those plug and play kits? Any way of knowing what color temperature is the most noticeable?

Has this been discussed before I didn't find much in searches. I see the prices vary all over the place. Kits to buy and kits to avoid?
Ive got CrossRoads HID kit on both beams.
HUGE improvement over stock pissweak yellow lights.
I got the blue tinge on both beams.
Only use low beam in daytime for visibility.
It really stands out, been on a couple of group rides since fitting and it draws favourable comment.
Definite high visibility daytime in low beam with the blue.
No need to blind others with high beam.
Low is plenty.
Adjustment is critical.
 

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Looking around at these for high beam only I use the high beam during the day and think this might be a good way to go. Anybody buy one of those plug and play kits? Any way of knowing what color temperature is the most noticeable?

Has this been discussed before I didn't find much in searches. I see the prices vary all over the place. Kits to buy and kits to avoid?
I use DDM TUNING http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/DDM-35W-55W-Single-Motorcycle-HID-Kit. I've been ordering there kits since 2008 I've never had one go bad (10 kit). The only problem now days with DDMTUNING they ship from china and it takes atleast 10days, but like I mentioned I had no problems and oh yeah, there e-mail response is slow 24hrs. I'm using the 6k kits for both HI/LO they have a slight tent of blue, your 5k will be the whitest, then the 4300 which will have a yellow tent to it but will cast the longest light.
 

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I sell a couple items (see links below) and appreciate the business I get from fellow forum members, so I feel obligated to trade with other forum vendors whenever possible. Even if I have to pay a bit more, it helps them, it helps our camaraderie and I love supporting initiative and small entrepreneurs. Its an American thing, you know.
 

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For daytime conspicuity, I have a PIAA extreme white in the low beam slot with a switchable Kisan modulator on it. I also have a pair of Clearwater high power LED Darla lights mounted low for that attention grabbing triangle of light.
How do the color temps match between these two? I was thinking about picking up a new low beam bulb to better match my Darlas.
 

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VictoryHID.com

If you have to get one beam only, I suggest the low beam, because you'll always be using it. 5,000K is pure white light and 6,000K has a slight blue tint. They are equally bright. 6,000K will make you stand out a bit more in traffic, while 5,000K will reflect less in foggy/rainy conditions.

I don't advertise my kits. I let those who use my kits do the advertising for me, but since a few have compared them to ebay, or ddm, or other kits, I thought I would mention that my kits come with:
- Bulbs with the correct focal length for the Victory reflectors. Just throwing a random HID bulb in your headlight will give you nothing more than random results.
- High quality bulbs with metal base which increase bulb life and decrease the likelihood of melted plastic inside your headlight housing. Plastic may be cheaper, but I care about quality, and if I am not providing a quality product I would rather not provide one at all.
- Insulated, metal ballasts with AC components which are shock/vibration proof and waterproof.
- True lifetime warranty that gets honored, not just two empty words thrown around at the time of sale with nobody at the other end when you have trouble.

My kits have been going into Victory motorcycles for the past 4 years and there are thousands of Victory motorcycles running kits that I have been testing and improving specifically for Victory application. I've stuck my nose into every single ballast, bulb or igniter that has failed so far, and continued to improve the product based on what has failed and how. Nobody's ever complained that I cannot be reached (just about 7 days a week). There's nothing wrong with saving a few bucks but you do get what you pay for.

I have HID for both low and high beams. While they are superior for brightness, they take 20-30 seconds to 'warm up' . They are no good for flash-to-pass.
Keep in mind that your cold HID high beam still comes on brighter than the stock halogen bulb, and it gets brighter and brighter as it fully ignites. So, if they're not bright enough to flash-to-pass, then what is? The stock bulb's not any brighter, and there is nothing that will flip on as bright as your fully ignited low beam.
 

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- True lifetime warranty that gets honored, not just two empty words thrown around at the time of sale with nobody at the other end when you have trouble.
Amen! I can testify to this. I bought the 5k low and high for my KP. I had Cycle Sounds Series 3 sound system with the volume control switch. The module for the volume control switch did not get along well with the module for the HID kit. With limited hiding places and cable lengths on my sound system, everything had to be stored in the headlight housing. CR helped me trouble shoot, gave good tips and advice but at the end of the day, I had to pick one or the other. I could not run both the sound system and the HID. I want to clarify though, it wasn't because of an amp or speakers or anything like that. The module for my volume control switch took on interference and gave crazy sounds through the speakers. If I didn't have that switch module in the headlight, there would have been no issues. Again, CR helped me through the issue and at the end of the day, took the kit back and gave me back every single penny I spent on the kit, even though the issue was because of my setup NOT his kit.

You have absolutely nothing to loose, he stands behind his product. Very professional, courteous and if you have ANY issues with ANY part of your install or kit, he will help you resolve it. If you want a no hassle, no worry purchase experience with a good man standing behind his product, buy from Victoryhid (CR).

Now that I traded in my KP for a CCT, I think I'll go back to Victoryhid since I won't have that interference issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
If you have to get one beam only, I suggest the low beam, because you'll always be using it. 5,000K is pure white light and 6,000K has a slight blue tint. They are equally bright. 6,000K will make you stand out a bit more in traffic, while 5,000K will reflect less in foggy/rainy conditions.

I don't advertise my kits. I let those who use my kits do the advertising for me, but since a few have compared them to ebay, or ddm, or other kits, I thought I would mention that my kits come with:
- Bulbs with the correct focal length for the Victory reflectors. Just throwing a random HID bulb in your headlight will give you nothing more than random results.
- High quality bulbs with metal base which increase bulb life and decrease the likelihood of melted plastic inside your headlight housing. Plastic may be cheaper, but I care about quality, and if I am not providing a quality product I would rather not provide one at all.
- Insulated, metal ballasts with AC components which are shock/vibration proof and waterproof.
- True lifetime warranty that gets honored, not just two empty words thrown around at the time of sale with nobody at the other end when you have trouble.

My kits have been going into Victory motorcycles for the past 4 years and there are thousands of Victory motorcycles running kits that I have been testing and improving specifically for Victory application. I've stuck my nose into every single ballast, bulb or igniter that has failed so far, and continued to improve the product based on what has failed and how. Nobody's ever complained that I cannot be reached (just about 7 days a week). There's nothing wrong with saving a few bucks but you do get what you pay for.


Keep in mind that your cold HID high beam still comes on brighter than the stock halogen bulb, and it gets brighter and brighter as it fully ignites. So, if they're not bright enough to flash-to-pass, then what is? The stock bulb's not any brighter, and there is nothing that will flip on as bright as your fully ignited low beam.
From the web site:
"During ignition they use 6amps compared to their usual consumption of only 3.4amps."

What's the current draw of the original bulbs? 3.4 amps seems very low for the HID and if I don't run my high beams (two bulbs on) then my stator should be very happy.
I'm ordering the low beam 6000k now. :D
 

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How do the color temps match between these two? I was thinking about picking up a new low beam bulb to better match my Darlas.
The Darlas make my PIAA look yellow in comparison, but I'm alright with that.
 
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