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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
When my bike warms up the idle begins to reach 1400-1500rpms. I noticed this happens sooner on hotter days. So I'm guessing the engine is idling higher to keep itself cool(most internal combustion engines are designed this way).

Something seems wrong, just not queit sure where to start looking. Vacuum leak maybe?

I'm gonna dig into the shop manual when I get home, but curious if anyone else experienced this? Especially those who live i Florida or TX. (Deep south)
 

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you could check for vacuum leaks by spraying a little aerosol(wd-40 is safer than carbclean, but not as responsive) around the throttle bodies while at idle and see if anything changes. i doubt it will, but u wouldn't be the first case.

where does the bike idle cold? after i cleaned the throttle bodies on the kp, it could climb up to 1400 rpms once warm, someone had been messing with the adjustment screw to keep it idleing with dirty TBs. once clean, i had to drop the idle back down, now it will idle at 850-900 if i dont let it warm up with the enrichener and will climb to alittle over 1000 once warm, right after cleaning it was 1150 ish, but after a few 1000 miles it has begun to slow again. i've cleaned them twice now and its easy enough to just do every oil change.

also check for cable tension in case a previous owner has messed with anything, mostly just check for proper throttle play.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Very useful info, I appreciate it! The previous owner said the dealership did an injector fush/cleaning because the bike had sat up a while with old gas. I'm thinking when they put everything back together they might have left some hose loose or something else not quiet tight that is leaking air.

When I start the engine cold it idles right around 1000, meybe 900 its it's cooler outside. I noticed its hard to get going, especially on colder days (50f and below). On a cold start, if i give it throttle it bucks and studders and if I let go, it dies. Just seems like it likes to warm up before it runs right.

To me everything points to a vacuum leak, hard cold starts mean extra air and too lean of a mixture, and high idle when hot might mean that a vacuum leak keeps it lean and running hotter then normal, so the engine idles up to stay cool.

I will tear into it this weekend. See what I find. Your notes will be very useful.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
So no one else in the south experiencing idling at 1500rpms?

If that's the case, then something really is wrong with my bike.

Blah... I was looking forward to wrenching this weeknd anyway... :rolleyes:
 

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Check your throttle body gasket...

As mentioned above, it is mostly likely an air leak. I have a 2007 and had a similar issue, found that the rubber throttle body gasket was leaking. Replacing it solved the problem...
 

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i have not had any high idle issues here. i also think it sounds like a vacuum leak. as the motor warms up the hole gets bigger so the idle goes up.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Good stuff guys! I appreciate all the ideas. Got my tank on empty this evering, will start to take her appart Saturday morning. Hope the fix is something silly.
 

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If you do not find any leaks, I would then check your battery and battery connections. My '08 Hammer had issues with high idle after it would warm up. Sometimes shutting the bike off than on, the condition would often go away, then come back again. Since I replaced the battery this past spring, I had no issues with idle problems.
 

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Once warm I've never heard anyone mention a Victory motor idles up to keep cool?

I've never seen it in my cars either... turbo diesels, turbo gas as well as normally aspirated EFI engine???

Our summers get pretty hot...

Mags
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
ok, so I have the bike appart at the moment. The things I found so far (2100 total miles on the bike).

1) Saying the TB was dirty would be an understatement. When I initially sprayed clearer on the blades, it seeped right through the dirt on the edge of the tb blades and the wall and ran straight down into the chamber. That is very different from the Witchdoctor video where he sprays the cleaner fluid and it sits there for a while. So now mine are clean and also close completely like they should.


2) This part pisses me off. I read about cracked caps, but didn't know what people were talking about. Now I do, see pic below. There is my 2nd source of vacuum leak (besides the one caused by dirt between the blades and the tb walls in part 1) And I have to ask... WTF was victory thinking?! There are two vacuum ports capped off with rubber on the bike that are used for nothing! If this isn't a "genius" (read sleezy) way to get you running back to the dealer for service, I don't know what is! I'm filling the end part of those ports with jb weld or gorila glue and throwing these rubber caps away. This is the dumbest thing I have ever seen!
 

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Hope I'm missing something on the TB cleaning as I have not seen the video but want to make sure you did open the butterfly's and clean the TB throats out. I had a throttle lock so was easy to lock open and clean with sea foam.

Answer to the rubber cap question is the ports are for the California emissions package. However, they do suck as many folks have probs with them. Except those in CA. :)

After cleaning the TBs good if your idle is not 1k +\- 50 the adjustment screw is just behind the front TB coming in from the left top side.

Safe ridin

Tim
 

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Vacuum ports, gauges?

Could those ports be used to hook vacuum gauges up to? Could you try a higher quality of vacuum caps? Or you could just use a good quality piece of fuel injection fuel hose and go from port to port just interconnect them.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
I did open the blades to clean out the throat, it was so black everywhere it was almost nausiating. The point of my story was just to show how bad the TB had gotten in 2000 miles, that the blades couldn't even close completely because of the dirt.

I went to autozone and got me some caps. 3/16 seemed to fit best, but everything on this bike is metric, so I'm sure the right metric size would fit better (whatever it is). I only saw 2 ports that are capped off. Are there more that I maybe didn't see?

I just realized also, my "fast idle" leaver doesn't actually do anything. The idle just stays where it is. I'm thinking now, that might be a sign that something needs adjustment.

And the list grows longer... :crzy:
 

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I did open the blades to clean out the throat, it was so black everywhere it was almost nausiating. The point of my story was just to show how bad the TB had gotten in 2000 miles, that the blades couldn't even close completely because of the dirt.

I went to autozone and got me some caps. 3/16 seemed to fit best, but everything on this bike is metric, so I'm sure the right metric size would fit better (whatever it is). I only saw 2 ports that are capped off. Are there more that I maybe didn't see?
No, that is the only two and I didnt intend to short sheet your mech ability, just wanted to make sure you got it all at once. If you don't have a service manual check BBoB's page, I think he has up to 08 electronic. http://www.victoryforums.com/showthread.php?t=10829
Just out of curiosity in relation to another thread I was reading, how long did it take to get the 2K on it or was it from the previous owner. On my 04 8/10K you can tell a difference and I clean the TB's. Just curious...wac

I just realized also, my "fast idle" leaver doesn't actually do anything. The idle just stays where it is. I'm thinking now, that might be a sign that something needs adjustment.
Beyond the cable being broken, fast idle if I understood right from other threads, should be bars turned to the left with 1/4 freeplay then it kicks in. Adjustment should be the freeplay at left turn only adjusted on the bar. After cleaning your TB's shouldnt need much. :) If you go by Lloyds start up recommendation I think its at 50 or above 15-30 seconds at 15-1800 upon ignition and 30-45 secs below 50. Once warmed up, should have an idle at 1K +/50. Not familiar if you have a Tach or not but if not should NOT be loping. This ain't your coworkers HD.. :ltr: Seriously, someone asked me how to figure RPM without the tach and I don't know unless do the speedo upgrade.. Someone with your model may help if so.

Only thing left to check after your running again is the TB body boots as was mentioned earlier. WD 40 should reveal either boot leaking.

Hope this helps and your back on the road quickly...

Tim
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Thanks bud. I really appreciate all your input on this. After cleaning the TBs and changing the caps I put the tank back on and started the bike for a little bit. The idle was a bit lopy, right around 1000rpms and a quick blip of the throttle made her kill. Is this normal for a cold bike to do, or still a symptom of a vacuum leak somewhere? A gradual increase in throttle seemed fine. I know I need to adjust the fast idle leever free play, like you said. So I'm still not sure if I fixed the issue.There's barely any gas in the tank too, which could cause low fuel pressure. it was getting late so I had to shut her down. Today it's raining so I have to wait till it stops. Always something.

Going to use this time to get carb cleaner so I can check for any more vacuum leaks when I get back to tinkering with her. We'll see if anything else comes up.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Took it for a 10 mile ride. THe bike starts quicker and seems to have better manners and low end power seems better, but when i cruise and pull in the clutch the rpms still bounce between 1100-1300 and settle at 1500 idle at a red light. So, this isn't over yet....

Next things I'm gonna try:

1) adjust the high idle lever according to spec
2) Look around the motor for another vacuum leak with a card cleaner can.
 

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.....The idle was a bit lopy, right around 1000rpms and a quick blip of the throttle made her kill. Is this normal for a cold bike to do, or still a symptom of a vacuum leak somewhere? A gradual increase in throttle seemed fine.
No problem, I know it is aggrivating not finding the problem... Trust me! Ansewer here is no, it is not normal. You should be able to ride with a couple minute warmup. Blasting the throttle may get you some hesitation but your asking for other problems doing that before the engine is warmed evenly... Seen your post in another thread you found a leak on the TB's using carb cleaner.. Just following up here incase someone else reads this 6 months from now... At least you know WHERE it is... If you didnt download the service manual, BBob has an electronic copy.

Good luck and safe ridin

Tim
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
You are absolutely right, and I had all intentions of updating this thread.

I sprayed carb cleaner around the intake and when I sprayed directly at the rubber intake adaptor this caused the bike to nearly shut off. I did this with the tank still on the bike so it was hard to tell where exactly this rubber piece had cracker but I was able to see frayed/ragged cuts around the upper ring part. When I get the replacement part and take the old one off I will be able to see better.

I downloaded the manual from Bbob's links so you can see the part in question is in the red box below :
 

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