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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone. I am thinking of getting the hydraulic clutch kit but wanted to see if anyone had that kit that also had HMD Gorilla bars and was able to install the kit without any issues. I am sure I can get a longer line made locally if I need to but would like to know that information ahead of time.
 

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If you don't tell the hydraulic clutch what kind of bars your putting it on you should be fine. The clutch line is basicly a long brake line. Dealers of after market shops can order it for you.
The biggest trick I can tell you is bleed the master cylinder before you hook a line to it. Now this video is a car but the principle is the same.
What he's doing is getting all the air out of the master cylinder before he hooks up the lines. Don't be in a hurry when bleeding. Small squeezes all lever will be better then full squeezes



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UHDn46lbwtM
 

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If you are seeking an easier clutch pull, try an EZ-Pull device first. They work great! I also installed a Barnett cable assembly and that made the pull easier too, by a bit.
 

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I wonder how an EZPull would work with a hydraulic clutch, since the slave cylinder actuator is a solid rod, not a flexible cable. The EZPull is longer than the normal clutch arm so it would be at a different angle...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Stock clutch pull is fine. The only reason I am doing this to to prevent a potential cable break while I am out on the road. I reached out to Witchdoctors about this and they said that the regular XC kit would not work with my bars and that I need to get the kit that is designed for pull back bars. Just looking at the site it appears the only difference is the hose length but I find it hard to believe that that extra length justifies the extra $136.31 they are asking.
 

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Stock clutch pull is fine. The only reason I am doing this to to prevent a potential cable break while I am out on the road. I reached out to Witchdoctors about this and they said that the regular XC kit would not work with my bars and that I need to get the kit that is designed for pull back bars. Just looking at the site it appears the only difference is the hose length but I find it hard to believe that that extra length justifies the extra $136.31 they are asking.
You could just buy a Sav-ur-ride cable for $40 and have no worries and a lot more money in your pocket..

Sav-ur-ride
 

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If the stock cable is not a problem for you just install Barnett ... No worries then ??

I did the same ... So did RICZ

TaPaTaLk for VIC forum
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Just to be clear. I am not looking for an alternative to my original post. The purpose of going hydraulic is to not have a cable so all of you that are proposing that are not getting the point of the change.
 

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Stock clutch pull is fine. The only reason I am doing this to to prevent a potential cable break while I am out on the road.
Oh ? I thought it was to prevent potentiall cable break ??

Sorry must have read wrong ??

May I suggest to completely eliminate your clutch cable THE quick shifter as an option ?? Maybe that is more your style ? Pretty cool device ?

:)

TaPaTaLk for VIC forum
 

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We are not going to change Defuse's mind, but I'll add that I have been riding over 62 years and never had a cable break, but have had problems with hydraulic clutches, particularly with the fluid boiling in the slave cylinder when riding against a strong headwind. When I was shopping for my next (and present) bike, I was delighted that there was a cable operated clutch for the simplicity of it. So, come on headwinds, I'm ready for ya!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
We are not going to change Defuse's mind, but I'll add that I have been riding over 62 years and never had a cable break, but have had problems with hydraulic clutches, particularly with the fluid boiling in the slave cylinder when riding against a strong headwind. When I was shopping for my next (and present) bike, I was delighted that there was a cable operated clutch for the simplicity of it. So, come on headwinds, I'm ready for ya!
Are you riding your bike on Mercury? Flash point of hydraulic oil is around 400F
 

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Just to be clear. I am not looking for an alternative to my original post. The purpose of going hydraulic is to not have a cable so all of you that are proposing that are not getting the point of the change.
Just to be even more clear...you were very clear in what you wrote, as BP666 quoted you.
So thank you for wasting my time trying to help you and kiss my ass for your snide post.

We are not going to change Defuse's mind
Good, I'm don't with this one.
 

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Are you riding your bike on Mercury? Flash point of hydraulic oil is around 400F
Not after it has absorbed moisture. Brake fluid and motor oils are hydrogenous, don't you know?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Just to be even more clear...you were very clear in what you wrote, as BP666 quoted you.
So thank you for wasting my time trying to help you and kiss my ass for your snide post.


Good, I'm don't with this one.
Apparently it wasn't clear enough for you. You are the one that felt the need to recommend something that was outside the scope of my originally stated parameters. If I wanted other alternatives I would have stated as much, instead I provided a specific scenario with a specific set of circumstances.
 

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Not after it has absorbed moisture. Brake fluid and motor oils are hydrogenous, don't you know?
Yes I am aware of that. But for that amount of water to affect the flash point enough you should also be noticing diminished performance, especially if you are running your brake system to the flash point of water. Also the comparison to a brake fluid and clutch is not entirely applicable as the brake system has friction and heat to deal with where the clutch engagement /disengagement does not.
 

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Yes I am aware of that. But for that amount of water to affect the flash point enough you should also be noticing diminished performance, especially if you are running your brake system to the flash point of water. Also the comparison to a brake fluid and clutch is not entirely applicable as the brake system has friction and heat to deal with where the clutch engagement /disengagement does not.
Do you want help from us or are you here to argue? Riding west across Kansas, into a fierce headwind, I lost my hyd. clutch on my Yammy Venture. The slave is attached to the engine case and the heat did its dirty work. If you were there, you'd have witnessed that happening. And yes, you put brake fluid in hyd. clutches.
Calm down son and let us try to help. Sometimes we have to guess, so don't nail us to the cross if we're guessing wrong. (A little Easter joke)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Yes I am aware of that. But for that amount of water to affect the flash point enough you should also be noticing diminished performance, especially if you are running your brake system to the flash point of water. Also the comparison to a brake fluid and clutch is not entirely applicable as the brake system has friction and heat to deal with where the clutch engagement /disengagement does not.
Do you want help from us or are you here to argue? Riding west across Kansas, into a fierce headwind, I lost my hyd. clutch on my Yammy Venture. The slave is attached to the engine case and the heat did its dirty work. If you were there, you'd have witnessed that happening. And yes, you put brake fluid in hyd. clutches.
Calm down son and let us try to help. Sometimes we have to guess, so don't nail us to the cross if we're guessing wrong. (A little Easter joke)

How does your experience with a fluid problem help me with a hose length question?
 

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Ha ha ha jaaaaaaa

Glorious thread .... Enjoyed my morning coffee reading this ...

OP have a glorious day my friend,

Lighten up mate ....

I also never had a hydraulic clutch, and don't need one ... BUT that is just my opinion, don't bust my cable for that ...

If you still want to eliminate any sort of cable read post #9 .... Cheap and no cable anymore, just as you asked for in your post #8

....

EDIT: I was trying to confuse the matter but it seems I did not succeed ... Or did I not ?

:-(

TaPaTaLk for VIC forum
 

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How does your experience with a fluid problem help me with a hose length question?
My sincere apologies...I didn't realize you wanted help with a hose length problem. Many here are in the same boat. :)
 

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I just installed a hydraulic clutch on my bike with the Victory Mitered Mini-Ape bars that have about 12" of rise and 12" of pullback and 35 1/2" wide. The factory hose worked for me but barley enough slack left for full turning motion. HMD has the gorillas listed as 36″ wide, 14″s tall, and 14″s of pullback, so I would say no way the stock hydraulic hose is going to work for you.
 
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