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Discussion Starter #1
As some of you might recall: when I hit my horn button to honk my Stebel, my bike would abruptly slow down. It felt almost like I was stabbing the brakes, but it's engine-related, not brake-related. My horn has been rewired as per KevinX's suggestion. i.e. just using the 2 OEM wires and no relay. Now I have also replaced the horn with another Stebel just to see if the horn was to blame. That made no difference and now I have a Stebel for my wife's bike.
A discovery I made today just baffles me more......if I stay on the horn button, the bike will continue to decelerate until I stop pressing the button! I brought the bike from 65 mph down to 30 mph using only the horn (same throttle and no brakes) This is getting weirder and weirder.
Any new ideas??
 

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It kind of sounds like the horn is drawing enough power to starve the ignition system, keeping it from being able to generate a big enough spark. Maybe you have bad/loose spark plug wires which would then need to draw excess current to supply the same amount of spark. Or something else in the ignition system is requiring excess current (that it shouldn't need) combine that with the current draw of the horn it may bog down the charging system.
 

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look at your voltage gauge when you push the horn button. If it drops below 14 volts then I'm thinking the stator and regulator are your problem. The stator puts out the amperage and the regulator brings it down to the 14 volts. Sitting still might be fine but going down the road could be a different story. If you could hook up your meter and take a ride might be a good idea.
 

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You need a relay. That way when you Honk, it will draw power directly from the battery and not the harness. Just try it, it's easy

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look at your voltage gauge when you push the horn button. If it drops below 14 volts then I'm thinking the stator and regulator are your problem. The stator puts out the amperage and the regulator brings it down to the 14 volts. Sitting still might be fine but going down the road could be a different story. If you could hook up your meter and take a ride might be a good idea.
I tested my horn circuit when installed my horn. All you get at the wires is 12 volts, go for regular horn but for air, stebel or anything big you need the relay.

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Discussion Starter #6
I tested my horn circuit when installed my horn. All you get at the wires is 12 volts, go for regular horn but for air, stebel or anything big you need the relay.

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I was getting all sorts of odd engine surging issues when I had the relay hooked up. KevinX suggested eliminating the relay (it was "backfeeding). All of the surging issues disappeared w/o the relay.
 

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You need a relay... period. Maybe it wasn't wired properly.

Run a 12 gauge wire direct from battery positive to #30 on the relay. Have a 20 or 25 amp in-line fuse in that wire.

Run a wire (gauge isn't critical but I generally use 14 or 16 gauge from here on) from post #85 on the relay to a good ground, preferably the negative post on the battery.

Run (or extend) your positive stock horn wire to post #86 on the relay.

Run a wire from post #87 on the relay to the positive post on the Stebel horn.

Run a wire from the negative post on the Stebel horn to ground. You can tie this into the same ground wire coming off post #85 on the relay.

This works on mine... should also work on yours.

Did I say you NEED the RELAY?

Here's a pic of my wiring setup...

Wiring.jpg
 

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Relay or no relay....pull the negative wire, hell pull both wires off the horn and tape them up (not shorted together of course).

Go for a ride and see if it still slows down when you press the horn button. If it does the your problem is not the horn because it's not drawing any juice.
 

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Strange indeed.

I agree that a relay is needed to drive an air horn. It will work without it, but your stressing the contacts on the horn button. They are not designed to carry that much current and will burn out prematurely.

In any event there is definitely something wrong with your electrical system. Checked your battery terminals yet?


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I was having feedback problems when I wired my Bad Boy horn also. I did use a relay but current still fed back through the wires and would light up the cruise and blinker buttons on the dash. It only did this when the bike was not running. When the bike is running no problems at all. Some people have installed a diode on the relay to prevent this. The wiring on these bikes is a little suspicious at times.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I was having feedback problems when I wired my Bad Boy horn also. I did use a relay but current still fed back through the wires and would light up the cruise and blinker buttons on the dash. It only did this when the bike was not running. When the bike is running no problems at all. Some people have installed a diode on the relay to prevent this. The wiring on these bikes is a little suspicious at times.
That's what it did on mine too.
 

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You need a relay... period. Maybe it wasn't wired properly.

Run a 12 gauge wire direct from battery positive to #30 on the relay. Have a 20 or 25 amp in-line fuse in that wire.

Run a wire (gauge isn't critical but I generally use 14 or 16 gauge from here on) from post #85 on the relay to a good ground, preferably the negative post on the battery.

Run (or extend) your positive stock horn wire to post #86 on the relay.

Run a wire from post #87 on the relay to the positive post on the Stebel horn.

Run a wire from the negative post on the Stebel horn to ground. You can tie this into the same ground wire coming off post #85 on the relay.

This works on mine... should also work on yours.

Did I say you NEED the RELAY?

Here's a pic of my wiring setup...

View attachment 24314
This is the way it should be done. Stock horns do not draw the juice the way the Stebel does
 

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