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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi Guys, I need some advice please. I have just had my bike in at HD getting some work done. It had stage 1 with Swept Pipes with stock baffles and K&N filter.

I had the RPW Baffles installed and the Lloydz timing wheel set to 4+ as well.

I took it for a 30 minute ride the first night back and it ran perfectly and sounded amazing. Couldn't have been happier. Not sure if my neighbours would agree though as it now sounds a lot tougher than stock baffles.

I went out today to ride to work and it kicked over fine, idled fine for a couple of minutes to warm up. I then rode off to work and about 2 minutes in it started making a really bad noise when I let go of the throttle. It sounds like (and this is going to be a crap description) a wood pecker banging on the exhaust like dak-a-dak-a-dak-a-dak-a-dak. It stops instantly as soon as i even give it 1mm of throttle. It sounds horrible.

I don't think it's pinging as it is an exhaust noise and not coming from the engine. I can ride it smooth as all through the gears and rev it right out as well and no bad noise. It is purely when I totally release the throttle.

I thought it could be backfiring but it is not a banging noise like a gun going off.

I aslo gave them Lloyds Exhaust gaskets as well to make sure it was not going to leak anywhere.

I have also unplugged the 02's as well and used WitchDoctors plugs for them.

I was thinking it might just need a tune now as the increased Airflow of the new baffles could be letting fuel through or not enough etc. but if that was the case then why was it running perfectly on the last ride and then it showed up on this ride?

Theoretically if it was a fuelling/mapping issue from my mods then it should have been having this issue then right?

The Bike is always run on the highest grade fuel as well. 97 Octane in the UK.


If anyone can shed some light that would be great. I will try and get a video of it but it will be hard to do as I need to ride it and get someone to film it.

Hear from you soon! HELP! :(
 

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if possible, the best thing you can do is get a video of what you're talking about.

[Edit] I just saw the last part about having someone film that for you.
 

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Sounds like stage 1 might not be enough for the mods you did. Check your plugs...see if it's running lean....
 

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have you got enough petrol, try ignition on, run button on, (dont press starter!!) ignition off, run button off wait for clicking sound. repeat 4 times
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I'm thinking the baffle too now. It would explain why it has only started today and not on the first ride. It would also explain why the noise is only there at closed throttle and any revs it goes away. I think the more airflow keeps it in place.

I don't think it the wheel as it runs perfectly at revs and is coming from the exhaust.
 

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It's metal on metal noise. Unmuffled and loud. Either baffle or exhaust mount has come loose. If it was anything else you would be on the side of the road. Safe riding.

2000 V92SC
Middle Tenn
it ain't stock...
 

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My only fear with the timing wheel is that did they use loctite on the bolts and torque them to the proper spec? If not, it can get ugly.
Here we go again with the untrue myth about the Lloydz timing wheel.

Here are a couple of facts:

If the main bolt comes loose the timing wheel will just loose the signal with the sensor and engine will quite running. Nothing catastrophic will happen.

If the two small bolts come loose the timing will simply retard and again nothing catastrophic will happen.

In both cases you will know something is wrong.

Now for the reality, as far as I know neither of these things have happened to anyone.

Can we now lay the myth to rest about the Lloydz timing wheel having problems when the facts do not support that.
 

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The bolts should still be loc-tited. No one started a myth that the wheel can cause serious issues. That has been put to rest that a member of a dealership gave bad information. What some neglect to understand is if the little bolts do in fact come loose and back all the way out then tossed around in the case then tell me that's good. Loctite them. Its only logical and precautionary.

Now back to OP's problem. I had the same issue with a set of Big City Thunder baffles. One of the securing bolts vibrated out and the baffle slid up and down the pipe on decal. Made a hell of a racket. Check them and well maybe use some...................... wait for it.................... ready..................... here it comes................................Yep, LOCTITE! :D
 

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The bolts should still be loc-tited. No one started a myth that the wheel can cause serious issues. That has been put to rest that a member of a dealership gave bad information. What some neglect to understand is if the little bolts do in fact come loose and back all the way out then tossed around in the case then tell me that's good. Loctite them. Its only logical and precautionary.

Now back to OP's problem. I had the same issue with a set of Big City Thunder baffles. One of the securing bolts vibrated out and the baffle slid up and down the pipe on decal. Made a hell of a racket. Check them and well maybe use some...................... wait for it.................... ready..................... here it comes................................Yep, LOCTITE! :D
You would know long before a bolt backed all the way out due to the change in timing. There is not a single case anyone can show where this has happened. You have noted Vic tuners who do not use Loctite on these bolts.

Use the blue Loctite, no problem with that but again there is not one single case of these bolts ever backing out and falling into the crank case.

I used blue Loctite on mine but to continue to lay claim that if you don't these bolts will back out and fall into the crank case is just not true and has never happened.

This is nothing more than fear mongering.

To read some of the posts about Lloydz products he has to be the dumbest smart guy to ever work on or design parts for a Victory.

You still have those who rail his branded fuel controllers are junk yet the truth is those who have had problems with them just did not know what they are doing.

Seems the only tuner that ever gets put on a dyno is the PCV giving that tuner a huge advantage over the other tuners that never see a dyno. When all you do is press buttons and guess you won't ever get the best tune.

Hell even those who don't put a PCV on the dyno end up with complaints about it.

Most of the other tuners that get a bad reputation in here have never been put on a dyno to set them up like the PCV gets.

Further most people don't need the ability of the PCV to advance the timing over 2500 RPM because they already have the Lloydz timing wheel that advances the timing all the way from idle to redline negating the need for the tuner to have to advance the timing. Raising the redline another 500 RPM's is also something that most people do not need and will never miss but if they want it so bad Lloydz can also take care of that with a flash to the ECM.

The best bang for the buck right now in fuel controllers is the Dobeck AFR+/Lloydz VFC4. That tuner will handle 95% of the needs of Victory owners. The other 5% that need something more can buy the PCV but outside of that 5% who have a real need for that turner everyone else is just wasting their money.
 

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Hi Guys, I need some advice please. I have just had my bike in at HD getting some work done. It had stage 1 with Swept Pipes with stock baffles and K&N filter.

I had the RPW Baffles installed and the Lloydz timing wheel set to 4+ as well.

I took it for a 30 minute ride the first night back and it ran perfectly and sounded amazing. Couldn't have been happier. Not sure if my neighbours would agree though as it now sounds a lot tougher than stock baffles.

I went out today to ride to work and it kicked over fine, idled fine for a couple of minutes to warm up. I then rode off to work and about 2 minutes in it started making a really bad noise when I let go of the throttle. It sounds like (and this is going to be a crap description) a wood pecker banging on the exhaust like dak-a-dak-a-dak-a-dak-a-dak. It stops instantly as soon as i even give it 1mm of throttle. It sounds horrible.

I don't think it's pinging as it is an exhaust noise and not coming from the engine. I can ride it smooth as all through the gears and rev it right out as well and no bad noise. It is purely when I totally release the throttle.

I thought it could be backfiring but it is not a banging noise like a gun going off.

I aslo gave them Lloyds Exhaust gaskets as well to make sure it was not going to leak anywhere.

I have also unplugged the 02's as well and used WitchDoctors plugs for them.

I was thinking it might just need a tune now as the increased Airflow of the new baffles could be letting fuel through or not enough etc. but if that was the case then why was it running perfectly on the last ride and then it showed up on this ride?

Theoretically if it was a fuelling/mapping issue from my mods then it should have been having this issue then right?

The Bike is always run on the highest grade fuel as well. 97 Octane in the UK.


If anyone can shed some light that would be great. I will try and get a video of it but it will be hard to do as I need to ride it and get someone to film it.

Hear from you soon! HELP! :(
I am late into this thread but I am experiencing a similar thing as you except not a wood pecker sound more of a "glug" sound at idle every 2-3 seconds. It is not pinging or detonation I do not think but maybe it is. Riding the bike seems fine. I am running 94 Octane. I have attributed to my PCV not having a good map on it or possibly the map not being good for 94 Octane or I need to bring the ATS down from +4 to +2 or +3.

Bike is going for a dyno tune soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I have just checked and one of the baffles has now fallen out. The riveted them in instead of using the bolts that the stock ones were he'd on with. That would explain the rattling noise and now the horrible sound. Do you think I should make the shop order me a new one? They used a pop rivet and it broke within a day!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I've let them know and they said they will have to get me another but are surprised as the rivet usually is good enough. Problem is to get on from Lloydz to the UK will take 2 weeks. The summer here is short as it is. Remember they already had it for 5 weeks :(
 
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