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Discussion Starter #1
Got off my CCT and 30 mins later I looked down as I was undressing to see the RED welt on my right calf. I ride with MC riding trousers and leather boots, seeing this welt from the right side engine heat gives me pause. Does anyone know what the head temps should be and own a digital infrared thermometer?
 

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Please show picture of bike. It looks like you have had it tuned so it shouldn't be running overly hot due to a lean condition so I'm thinking you have lowers preventing air flow or possibly directing hot engine air flow to your lower leg.

I'm running the JTD lowers on my XC with forged bars and noticed it getting a little warm yesterday while riding in 100 degree temps. First thing I did was look to make sure I had the vents open and directed at the engine. That 2-6 pm time frame is the worst for riding in the summer. Hottest part of the day.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I was in stop and go traffic and have the lowers only partially cracked open and had pretty GF onboard... MC is running perfectly fine otherwise. Tuned my Dobeck EJK with Air flow meter so that is good. Just wondering.. ATS is only +4 and it was 84 degrees out. Ended ride with 20 miles of back road and freeway so it should have "Cooled" down?
 

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What AFRs are you running?
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
My AFR's are consistent with accepted norms gleaned from Dobeck tuning site. if not a little rich at idle. idle and full on throttle 11.8 - 12.5 WFO 12.5-13.5.... Fwy drone under 14.8 - 15.2 at partial throttle. Gas mileage is 36 - 43 so not running lean and bike runs very well. Will try fully open lowers.. Summertime air cooled engine is like sitting on stove with handlebars for me.
 

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@SemperVee ..A few years ago I had excessive heat issues with my XC engine.(There's two long threads on the matter in this forum) When I put factory hard-lowers on and went out on a hot day I got about the same scalding as you did. To make a long story short my engine did not like the added timing advance form the Lloydz ATS. Even advancing as little as +1 the engine would turn into a furnace at +4 it was nuclear hot. I went back to the stock timing gear and the engine went right back to running at normal temps
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I might have to try that to see if I am in the same boat. Thanks.
 

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I might have to try that to see if I am in the same boat. Thanks.
Hope it helps and let us know how this turns out. I'd recommend retarding to 0 advance to test this.
 

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Yea, I can vouch for @PaiN 's experience. We have almost identical mods (our cams are a bit different but we did them both in my garage) but our bikes are both 2013 Cross Countrys. I have +4 and I don't have the heat issues he did. It's all about what your particular engine likes.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Will be dialing back the +4 this AM... for sure.
 

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Unfortunately, the only way to see if it works is to try it. Might take a few adjustment/trial rounds until you get the best combo for your bike.
 

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For rides that are more than just grocery getters, I wear longies or Cycle Gear Heat-Out underliners under my pants. Those keep the engine heat off my legs very well and I have ridden comfortably in 106* with that arrangement.
 

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You could take the lowers off for summer time. I did a summer or so back. Not to bad of a job, but then I got no place for Ipod. For me its kind of a PIA because I have to take off driving lights and highway pegs and put back and forth each time.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I am back to ZERO advance... taking VroomHilda for a much needed R&R test ride this AM. . . .
 

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Remember retarding the ignition can have the opposite results of a even hotter running engine. I'm at +3 on my CCT and it's the coolest running at that level. Even though you'll sense more heat running with the lowers fully open around your butt you'll legs won't burn anymore. I have lots of experience with blistering calves on both legs. Once I started wearing only cotton jeans and riding with the vents fully open I can ride in 100 degree weather and get nothing on my calves.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I should borrow or buy an AFR meter to make sure to stay in the 13 +/- AFR zone or upgrade to the AFR-plus with built in meter.
I did dial back my timing wheel to +2 and fully open the vents. I have my EJK Green fueling at 2.0 and the rest at .5 since I am running stealthy stock quiet pipes now. We'll see this weekend if it made a material difference. If that does not help I will go back to ZERO on the wheel and or add more fuel to the green and yellow zone.
 

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Choking

Possibly with those stock quiet pipes on it, maybe it is choking or holding back the exhaust a bit to much. I know they say to leave the cats, but my bike kicked those cats out of the neighbor hood a long time ago and the neighborhood(engine) has run cooler ever since. There are advantages & disadvantages to every mod.
wac
 

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Possibly with those stock quiet pipes on it, maybe it is choking or holding back the exhaust a bit to much. I know they say to leave the cats, but my bike kicked those cats out of the neighbor hood a long time ago and the neighborhood(engine) has run cooler ever since. There are advantages & disadvantages to every mod.
wac
When I was looking for why my XC was melting me, I did remove the cats and it didn't make much difference. :|
 

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Been i one of these debates several times. Cats many decades ago when they first came out did restrict, and then some folks ran leaded fuel thru them too and they got clogged up. Newer cats with the substrate (honey comb) unless they get broke or fouled by oil are no longer restrictive. The OEM spend lots of $$ flowing total exhaust systems to get performance.
That said, the cats themselves DO contain heat. Thats how they "burn" the unused fuel to clean up emissions. Being the cats are under the bike some of that heat could defiantly be transferred thru the pipes and back up. I know mine were cooking the wife. So I tried wrapping the pipes in header wrap to keep heat in until it cleared us. Did it help? I dunno. Could taking the cats out help? Possibly. I did the Broggy muffler thing I read about. Lowered the restriction, so in my mind that should theoretically push some of the heat out too rite?
 

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I've seen my CCT hit 300's on a hot day according to onboard engine sensor my PVCX reads. That's a bit warm but it never went much over 300 even with long idling in traffic.
 
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