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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
01 v92 deluxe

So I've done it all on the list.

Changed:
Battery
Plugs
Oil
Fuel Filter
Air Filter
Throttle Position Sensor
Throttle Body Gaskets (Cleaned throttle bodies thoroughly went from 1k rpm to 1500)
Cleaned tank and chunk screens
Replaced exhaust gaskets

When I'm on the bike, it backfires like crazy when the fast idle is applied (during initial warmup), but after about 60 seconds if fast idle is turned off brings it down to a mellow and solid sounding 1k rpm. It's hard to keep it (fast idle during warmup) at 2k rpm, requires constant attention and there is a hesitation. When you're on the bike, 1st gear gets you to about 15 mph before you feel the need to change gear, 2nd goes to 25, 3rd to 35, and 4th to 45. But, all through those gears from 2k to 3k rpm there is a major stumble (seems to level out a bit after 3.5k). It feels as is if there is fuel coming in spurts, it lurches forward, then bogs down over and over again, even as the gauge is reading 3k rpm and I'm holding throttle steady for a while (all the while during this surge/bog dance the needle stays constant on the tach). So before I go assuming anything, most likely culprit seems a sticky fuel injector as this is a v92 that has sat for 6 years. Pretty much all of the above was done not only as it was needed along the way for troubleshooting, but also because the poor beast was mistreated and needed to have the work done.

Before I go assuming its a fuel injector, any advice on what else to check. (Oh and just in case, I ordered an air temp sensor for it as well which I'll drop in, though I doubt it). I also sprayed contact cleaner on pretty much any connection I could find (minus the fuel injectors as I got the spray after I put the throttlebody back together). I REALLY don't want to pull that throttle body off again. Not that I think its going to be as hard the second time around. It's just as a single dad with majority custody, finding 15 minutes where I can do it at a reasonable hour without an interruption is on my christmas wishlist. ;) Any advice would be appreciated (especially advice that solves the problem and doesn't require me to pull the TB off, heh). Thanks.
 

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01 v92 deluxe

So I've done it all on the list.

Changed:
Battery
Plugs
Oil
Fuel Filter
Air Filter
Throttle Position Sensor
Throttle Body Gaskets (Cleaned throttle bodies thoroughly went from 1k rpm to 1500)
Cleaned tank and chunk screens
Replaced exhaust gaskets

When I'm on the bike, it backfires like crazy when the fast idle is applied (during initial warmup), but after about 60 seconds if fast idle is turned off brings it down to a mellow and solid sounding 1k rpm. It's hard to keep it (fast idle during warmup) at 2k rpm, requires constant attention and there is a hesitation. When you're on the bike, 1st gear gets you to about 15 mph before you feel the need to change gear, 2nd goes to 25, 3rd to 35, and 4th to 45. But, all through those gears from 2k to 3k rpm there is a major stumble (seems to level out a bit after 3.5k). It feels as is if there is fuel coming in spurts, it lurches forward, then bogs down over and over again, even as the gauge is reading 3k rpm and I'm holding throttle steady for a while (all the while during this surge/bog dance the needle stays constant on the tach). So before I go assuming anything, most likely culprit seems a sticky fuel injector as this is a v92 that has sat for 6 years. Pretty much all of the above was done not only as it was needed along the way for troubleshooting, but also because the poor beast was mistreated and needed to have the work done.

Before I go assuming its a fuel injector, any advice on what else to check. (Oh and just in case, I ordered an air temp sensor for it as well which I'll drop in, though I doubt it). I also sprayed contact cleaner on pretty much any connection I could find (minus the fuel injectors as I got the spray after I put the throttlebody back together). I REALLY don't want to pull that throttle body off again. Not that I think its going to be as hard the second time around. It's just as a single dad with majority custody, finding 15 minutes where I can do it at a reasonable hour without an interruption is on my christmas wishlist. ;) Any advice would be appreciated (especially advice that solves the problem and doesn't require me to pull the TB off, heh). Thanks.

Probably the best way to figure out if it is the injectors is to find a local injector re builder and send them in to be tested. After they receive them they put them on the test bench and tell you what you have and if they need attention or replaced. . No guessing, you know what you have.
Turn around time can be quite short depending on the shop. Ask around, most major areas have some shop that is doing it for repair shops in the area. Prices vary.

Have you checked for air leaks with starting fluid of propane? Is your contact cleaner fuel based? Most aren't flammable. If your contact cleaner isn't highly flammable start here.
Do move the bike outside and have something handy to put it out with immediately if the testing brings about a backfire through the intake that starts a fire.


Have you checked the fuel pressure coming out of the pump yet with a gauge?

On older vehicles that have sat and are acting like they have fuel issues I usually start by mixing up a 50/50 mix of seafoam or just straight seafoam. Then figure a way to get it into the fuel system. You most likely want enough mix in there to keep the fuel pump cooled. Engines will run fine on straight seafoam at idle. The idle changes a bit but they run ok. It doesn't seem to hurt anything.

Once I know it is all through the system (if straight seafoam you will hear the motor start to run slightly different) I shut it off and let it sit for a couple of hours. Then I check to see if there is any improvement. If there is, I let it sit over night then try again. Once it becomes rideable I add a can of seafoam to each tank till it stops improving. Usually 4 to 6 tanks of gas on a motor that shows improvement and things are good again.

Hope you find something useful.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the suggestions. The throttle body adapter was changed out too. The boots were replaced with rubber plugs from pepboys. Will try the screwdriver trick, and while that may let me know if its running, won't tell me if its leaky or clogged, but at least I'll know its working. If it is, I suppose next it can't hurt to try the seafoam straight. I always added it to the gas, makes sense to try it straight since it's petroleum anyway. Will be back in a few days with some updates.
 

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You don't mention how it ran before being unused for so long so I will assume it was fine. At first guess I'd say if it sat for 6 years the problem would be sludge in the fuel system. The Sea Foam, or other aggressive injector cleaner may be of some benefit but if that's the case it will take time to dissolve all that varnish in the injectors or lines. The pump is also suspect for the same reason so after sitting with the cleaner in it for awhile, check the pressure. You can rent testers from some auto stores and be sure they have the correct connection in their kit. Joe gave some excellent suggestions on that process.

As someone previously noted, if not looked after the rubber parts dry out and crack. You've changed some but perhaps not all of them? Starting fluid sprayed in the area of boots and lines will get sucked into the airflow and effect the way the engine is running. It tells you real fast if there's a hole.

These and even some electrical problems manifest themselves under load. Make sure you do your testing in the higher rpm range.

Also note that you have stated the problems "seems to level out a bit after 3.5k". I believe that if it's an electronic fuel feed or vacuum problem the effects would get worse as the load/demand increased, not better. Are they just happening so fast you don't recognize the problem is still occurring? If it truly is the case that the problem is corrected under an increased load then my guess in the lottery swings towards electrical. These bikes are horrible for the quality of their wiring and even a little moisture can cause troubles. If a bit of corrosion developed during the 6 years that too can be a problem so make sure connections are clean. Increases in rpms increase the voltage in some circuits which can overcome the resistance of the corrosion.

One more suggestion. Run the bike at normal operating temperature and in the range where the problem is its worst for about one minute. While running at that rpm and load, turn the bike off. What do your plugs look like?

In the end, these two wheeled creations from hell are full of imps and gremlins that raise a little $hit once in awhile. Sometimes it takes time to determine the problem and still leaves us scratching out heads when it's fixed. It may be a bit twisted but I kinda like that pain-in-the-a$$ part of the biking experience too when I can fix it myself.

Good luck and keep us in the loop.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Not sure how it ran before, previous owner said it ran fine but he barely rode it. Its basically a bike that has sat a long time. Did the screwdriver test and hear the clicking on the fuel injectors. Every plug I found I unplugged and spray contact cleaner on. There actually didn't seem to be too much rust. Even the inside of the tank looked pretty damn good. There was a little on the chunk screens, no chunks just discoloration. As for boots and lines, I've tried the starter fluid trick with no noticable results anywhere, rpms stay steady. I wouldn't be surprised if there was a wiring issue, I suppose my logical mind likes to stick with fuel as the delivery of it seems to be at issue. Will plug away at it more with some seafoam and redline injector cleaner, and see how she does in a couple of days. After that, I see the plug to the injector, anyone ever pull one? Anything special to watch out for? Thanks again.
 

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test the fuel pump. You want 50 psi. Auto stores will rent you the teter for next to nothing.
Did you say you replaced the spark plug wire. Look on youtube and with a meter you can check them.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Took it to a local indy shop to run on a dyno while testing fuel pressure. While in low rpm or at cruising speed it was running very lean (16-17 afr) but fine at wide open throttle. Fuel pump pressure was fine at 60psi. Im waiting on an air temp sensor to arrive so I can see if that corrects it. I already replaced the tps but I'm guessing that it could be a bad one? Two full cans of seafoam didn't help. Will report back later this week after changing air temp sensor. This bike doesn't have an engine temp sensor, does it? Thanks again all.
 

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be careful on how much starter fluid you use. It can shorten the life of the rubber boots.

Doubt the tps is bad it might be not adjust right
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Sadly I think I'm beyond the use of fluids at this point (though next time I'm using that trick think I'll use propane, I hear it stalls the engine if aimed at the leak point). Seems like something internal/electric. I'm hoping to hell its the sensor as others have reported that fixed many such an issue. If not, I may well take it back to the Victory dealer to remap. I kinda wonder if there's any possibility the ECU lost its mind from sitting for 6 years. While I know it's unlikely, if that isn't it, I guess it's down to the injectors, and I don't know if I'm equipped to remove them. It took me quite a while to get the throttle body off, and I had to bend the frame where the ignition key and coil were just to be able to pass it through. I gotta imagine a vic dealer can probably pull them off in an hour or so, and I may well be better off doing that if the sensor and remap doesn't pan out. I'm loathe to pay $100/hr, but I feel like I'm pissing in the wind trying to guess at what's wrong here. It's making me miss carburetors.
 

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Good luck with it! I hope you figure it out!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Glad I got the dyno chart. Showed it was running lean across the full range, only slightly less so at WOT (Wide Open Throttle). I used the vicshop TPS reset (B&E pins with alligator clip), enriched the fuel mixture (A HELL OF A LOT) and now it's running great. No flat spots at all. Now if only I could find a seat that fit my 5'8" azz and let me plant my feet properly. I suppose next is dropping the forks a half inch to see if it helps. Thanks all for the tips. Seems sometimes the simplest solution is the best. I would have been playing with that TPS reset for days if I hadn't seen that chart though. If anyone knows of a set of pipes for a v92c for sale, please let me know.
 

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Glad I got the dyno chart. Showed it was running lean across the full range, only slightly less so at WOT (Wide Open Throttle). I used the vicshop TPS reset (B&E pins with alligator clip), enriched the fuel mixture (A HELL OF A LOT) and now it's running great. No flat spots at all. Now if only I could find a seat that fit my 5'8" azz and let me plant my feet properly. I suppose next is dropping the forks a half inch to see if it helps. Thanks all for the tips. Seems sometimes the simplest solution is the best. I would have been playing with that TPS reset for days if I hadn't seen that chart though. If anyone knows of a set of pipes for a v92c for sale, please let me know.
Check out Facebook. They sell all sorts of Vic parts in a group on there. You may also want to see if you can get a lowering link for the rear end of your bike. Not sure if they have one or not.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
 

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iamtheanimal


STOP don't do one more thing to bike don't check one more thing.
Write Kevinx and tell him what you have done and how long it was sitting.
He will get back to you and he will save you time and money.
Damit write him

Southern Motorworx
 
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