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Did you run the positive and negative leads directly to the battery?

I used a volt meter and found a good ground inside the fairing but not all places have a good ground for some reason. I didn't read this thread so sorry if I am preaching to the choir.

Heat doesn't affect mine until I ride for a while in 110+ degree heat. Then it takes a little vacay.
 

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I'm going to vote for the amp protection kicking in.

How high are the gains set?

If you turn the volume down does it play longer?


Don't google PBR300 problems, it will make your head swim.:crzy:
 

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Positive is direct to battery. Neg is to a ground point on the forks. I used one of the bolts holding the brake line support bracket to the triple tree, after removing the paint from the bolt & bracket. I used a meter and this seemed to be one of the few reliable grounds under there. The RF manual cautions against a ground run longer than 18" so that's why I didn't go to the battery direct.

I tried to set the gain according to the RF manual. I think I was conservative, but I could be wrong. Anyone have suggestions for the setting to use?

I know it has been said not to use auto volume, and if that's the problem I will give it up, but I'd really like to use it because I like the way it quiets down when I come to a stop.

Thanks,
Rob
 

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I would move that ground to the battery, the ground must be as large as the positive feed. I am not sure how large the vic ground to the forks is but its probably not 8 gauge. Low voltage (which can be caused by an inadequate + or -) is an amp killer.
 

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As truck said move ground to battery and hopefully you used a minimum of 10 gauge wire, 8 is better. Did u try it with an iPod?
 

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I used the RF 8 ga install kit. Which is actually too big because it doesn't fit in the amp's power plug. But I shaved a (very) few strands off to make it fit.

I moved the ground to the battery today. Also turned the gain down slightly (was around 5, now between 3-4). I took a good long run and had no issues tonight, but I was listening via Aux instead of radio. Really shouldn't matter to the amp though, since the input is still the same. I ran it louder than the day before too, just to push it harder. Hopefully it was the ground that was the problem.

Thanks for the tips.

Rob
 

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Motor vehicle Vehicle Auto part Engine Motorcycle accessories

Just completed my install. Took my time over a couple weekends. Double checked wire colors myself and found the same as others have (pink and orange pairs for rear). Tapped in approximately 6" or so from the stereo plug.
Used crimp butt-splices and heat shrink to keep clean and dry and to relieve strain.
Set gains to 1(minimum) and 1.5ish rear and front respectively. Took an interstate cruise and found the system far more capable than factory, producing intelligible music even through my helmet.
I left the speed correction at medium.
Front is all pass, rear is high pass, though it sounds like I get more bass out of the trunk than the fairing.


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First real ride with the PBR300X4 and my Kicker speakers. Listening to radio stations at about level 7 or 8. Found that after a half hour or so of riding the sound started cutting out randomly for a half a second or so at a time. Sometimes it stayed on for a while, sometimes it cut out repeatedly. I tried lowering the volume but that didn't seem to affect things. I did have auto volume on 'low' initially, but turn it to 'off' and the issue persisted. I wouldn't think this would be a heat-related issue since the temp was only about 62* and I was moving at highway speeds.

Any ideas what might be wrong? I think I'm ruling out bad connections on the speaker input/output wiring because the cut-outs happened to both sides at the same time.

Rob
It's "clipping", how many channels are you using, what is the channel switch set to and how high is the gain turned up?
 

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It's "clipping", how many channels are you using, what is the channel switch set to and how high is the gain turned up?
I have all 4 channels hooked up for input and output, but I don't have the trunk on yet. I had the gain set around 5 front and back, but I've since turned it down slightly.

Rob
 

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I have all 4 channels hooked up for input and output, but I don't have the trunk on yet. I had the gain set around 5 front and back, but I've since turned it down slightly.

Rob
BINGO, that's when I have the same trouble, it doesn't really like being switched to 4 channel and only running 2. Turn the bass and treble boost to zero, put the fade all the way to the front both of those things help.
 

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Installing Amp

So I think I'm gonna try my install today. One quick question.. I got the Hawg Wired Amp bracket, is the norm to use sheet metal screws to mount the amp to the bracket, or is the recommendation nut, washer and bolts. I was thinking about industrial strength Velcro..but I'm thinking the heat from the amp will loosen the glue or even deform the plastic...

Thoughts?
 

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Im on my second amp . It burnt up on my Florida trip. These amps do get quite hot . so i installed a computer fan from Radio Shack It has a built in LED light , so i know when its on . I put a separate toggle switch on my fairing .
 

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Im on my second amp . It burnt up on my Florida trip. These amps do get quite hot . so i installed a computer fan from Radio Shack It has a built in LED light , so i know when its on . I put a separate toggle switch on my fairing .
I did the same. Just have to remember to shut the fan off when I park the bike. It helps living in Florida.
 

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Amp install

Thanks for the heads up on the fan install. Is there a way it can be wired to the accessory? So when I turn the key on..the fan comes on, key off, fan goes off. Has to be an outlet for accessory already there. Any ideas?

Now about the screws for mounting the amp?
 

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Not to hijack an old thread but my buddy and I tried installing polk 6.5" speakers into my fairing yesterday on my XC and when wiring in the RF punch 300x2 amp we are having a series of complications using the remote wire for the ignition regardless of what we tie into it forces the dash to stay on even after the key is returned to the off position.

I read in this post that the remote should be ignored and the amp wired directly from the battery. Can anybody since two years ago when this thread came out confirm they haven't had a dead battery as a result of this?
 

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The amp senses the power coming into the speaker wire inputs from the radio thus turning the amp on. I've had it hooked this way for 3 years and no problems even after sitting for months.
 

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You should run the power and ground directly from the battery to the RF amp. If the amp doesn't turn on by way of the speakers then just run a remote wire from a switched source to the amp. I alwayd run a remote wire and do not count on the speakers to turn the amp on.
 

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You should run the power and ground directly from the battery to the RF amp. If the amp doesn't turn on by way of the speakers then just run a remote wire from a switched source to the amp. I alwayd run a remote wire and do not count on the speakers to turn the amp on.
Problem with this is we have already attempted several switched sources and even the constant on from the 12volt outlet. To say that the dash went apeshit is an understatement. All sorts of weird stuff was happening so we decided that was not the best practice. I'm going to try direct to the battery.
 

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Problem with this is we have already attempted several switched sources and even the constant on from the 12volt outlet. To say that the dash went apeshit is an understatement. All sorts of weird stuff was happening so we decided that was not the best practice. I'm going to try direct to the battery.
I found that even when I thought I had a solid ground on the forks the PBR300x4 amp was having issues (with +12V direct to battery). Had to wire ground direct too in order to resolve it. As mentioned above, unless the 300x2 is different than the 300x4 you don't need to hook up a switched trigger source. The speaker inputs trigger the amp to turn on.

Rob
 

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Ensure the Positive and battery are wired directly to the battery with 8 or 10 gauge wire.

Ignore the remote wire. The amp senses incoming signal on the speaker in side from the radio unit which itself is switched. A second remote can confuse the unit, however it has been used by some. Rockford says don't need it for this application and it works great for me without it.
 
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