Victory Motorcycle Forum banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,501 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone know the difference between the hydraulic clutch kits for the Vegas and the XC?
thanks
Dan
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
6,372 Posts
Does anyone know the difference between the hydraulic clutch kits for the Vegas and the XC?
thanks
Dan
Officially, per Victory, there is no hydraulic kit for the XC. They only list the steel-framed bikes as being compatible. Having said that, I installed one on mine :)
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
13,027 Posts
Dan
you should always say what year bike you have.
In your case you might not have the mounting holes in the primary to mount the slave cylinder.
There is only one hydraulic clutch will fit any late model bike getting the right hose length is the secret.
The hydraulic clutch does not pull any easier the cable it just doesn't break on you
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,501 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Ok I understand but I'm looking on eBay n there is a kit listed for the Vegas at 350 and then one for the XCT at 399. Just seems like $50 is a lot for a few inches of line. My tour is a 2012.
Thanks
Dan
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
6,372 Posts
The hydraulic clutch does not pull any easier the cable it just doesn't break on you
I beg to differ; my clutch now pulls easier, and is more smooth, than the cable. It is also more predictable than the cable.

Dan:
The listed part number in both auctions I can see are the same: 2876299-266 -- which is the same as the unit I bought. Looks like someone is just selling them cheaper. Just make sure you get all the parts:
- Clutch lever and mount
- Slave cylinder
- Hose
- Crush washers for both ends of the hose
- Banjo bolts for both ends
- bleeder valve for slave end

I think the biggest difference is the hose/cable length. On the XC/XCT, I ran the hose down the left side of the tank, not the right side like the OEM cable...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,501 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I beg to differ; my clutch now pulls easier, and is more smooth, than the cable. It is also more predictable than the cable.

Dan:
The listed part number in both auctions I can see are the same: 2876299-266 -- which is the same as the unit I bought. Looks like someone is just selling them cheaper. Just make sure you get all the parts:
- Clutch lever and mount
- Slave cylinder
- Hose
- Crush washers for both ends of the hose
- Banjo bolts for both ends
- bleeder valve for slave end

I think the biggest difference is the hose/cable length. On the XC/XCT, I ran the hose down the left side of the tank, not the right side like the OEM cable...
Thanks for all the info!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,632 Posts
I beg to differ; my clutch now pulls easier, and is more smooth, than the cable. It is also more predictable than the cable.

Dan:
The listed part number in both auctions I can see are the same: 2876299-266 -- which is the same as the unit I bought. Looks like someone is just selling them cheaper. Just make sure you get all the parts:
- Clutch lever and mount
- Slave cylinder
- Hose
- Crush washers for both ends of the hose
- Banjo bolts for both ends
- bleeder valve for slave end

I think the biggest difference is the hose/cable length. On the XC/XCT, I ran the hose down the left side of the tank, not the right side like the OEM cable...
Let me preface this by saying that pretty much every bike I've owned in recent memory has had a hydraulic clutch. Why expensive bikes like Vic and Harley don't see fit to add this is nuts. I am aware Harley FINALLY started to add it this year on the premium touring bikes and Vic offered it on the Vision. In fact, the Vision is my reference for the Vic's functionality.

My one and only gripe about it is that it engages FAR out in the lever travel and unlike the cable, can't be adjusted, right?

Short of finding a sportier lever for smaller hands, I don't know there's much that can be done. I suppose, like everything else, one could get used to it after awhile, but I'd prefer a little adjustability.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
454 Posts
Let me preface this by saying that pretty much every bike I've owned in recent memory has had a hydraulic clutch. Why expensive bikes like Vic and Harley don't see fit to add this is nuts. I am aware Harley FINALLY started to add it this year on the premium touring bikes and Vic offered it on the Vision. In fact, the Vision is my reference for the Vic's functionality.

My one and only gripe about it is that it engages FAR out in the lever travel and unlike the cable, can't be adjusted, right?

Short of finding a sportier lever for smaller hands, I don't know there's much that can be done. I suppose, like everything else, one could get used to it after awhile, but I'd prefer a little adjustability.
My 2007 Harley had the Hydraulic clutch, granted it was the Screamin Eagle Dyna, but none the less it had the hyd clutch. As far as I know all of the Screamin Eagle line since 2007 has had the same set up. First year for the 110 cube engine, and hyd clutch. The only problem I had with the clutch was it vapor locked (the 110 CI engine was notorious for high heat issues).

The last time I inquired about the clutch adjustment there was no way to adjust it, BUT I think they did have an Easy pull lever kit on the market. The clutch would no dis-engage unless the lever was fully pulled (and for some reason I tend to keep my pinky finger behind the lever) and did not re-engage until the lever was almost fully released.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
340 Posts
My one and only gripe about it is that it engages FAR out in the lever travel and unlike the cable, can't be adjusted, right?

Short of finding a sportier lever for smaller hands, I don't know there's much that can be done. I suppose, like everything else, one could get used to it after awhile, but I'd prefer a little adjustability.
I'm with you on this one. I was all set to get the hydraulic kit. Liked the symmetry with the brake reservoir as well as the elimination of the snapping cable issue. Then I got my friction zone dialed in by loosening the cable a little ways beyond spec. Don't think I 'd be willing to give up that adjustability now that I've discovered it.

It's beyond me why they don't have the reach adjustment dial on the hydraulic clutch lever like they do on the brake lever. Seems that would be an easy fix...
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
6,372 Posts
There is no adjustments, but it also engages sooner than the cable

[EDIT] I have 14 years total on my Goldwing and Cavalcade; they had no adjustments for the clutch either. I'm used to it.
Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
13,027 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
522 Posts
I'm with you on this one. I was all set to get the hydraulic kit. Liked the symmetry with the brake reservoir as well as the elimination of the snapping cable issue. Then I got my friction zone dialed in by loosening the cable a little ways beyond spec. Don't think I 'd be willing to give up that adjustability now that I've discovered it.

It's beyond me why they don't have the reach adjustment dial on the hydraulic clutch lever like they do on the brake lever. Seems that would be an easy fix...
An adjustable reach clutch lever is not mechanically practical. If you were to adjust the clutch lever closer to the handlebar for smaller hands the lever would not have enough travel left to fully disengage the clutch.

I'm thinking the diaphragm spring on the Vic clutch pack is way overkill. I'm wondering what the dimensions (OD) of the HD reduced effort clutch diaphragm spring vs the Vics is, and what each clutch spring is rated at in lbs. Any one have their Cross Country clutch apart? I have a HD reduced effort spring I can measure for comparison.


Tech23
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
219 Posts
An adjustable reach clutch lever is not mechanically practical. If you were to adjust the clutch lever closer to the handlebar for smaller hands the lever would not have enough travel left to fully disengage the clutch.

I'm thinking the diaphragm spring on the Vic clutch pack is way overkill. I'm wondering what the dimensions (OD) of the HD reduced effort clutch diaphragm spring vs the Vics is, and what each clutch spring is rated at in lbs. Any one have their Cross Country clutch apart? I have a HD reduced effort spring I can measure for comparison.


Tech23
I should be getting a kit in the mail in a couple days. Is the spring separated in the kit? If so, tell me how to measure it, and I'll do it.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,632 Posts
An adjustable reach clutch lever is not mechanically practical. If you were to adjust the clutch lever closer to the handlebar for smaller hands the lever would not have enough travel left to fully disengage the clutch.
I did the same thing and there is still a mile of travel left to disengage the clutch. If the clutch didn't disengage, the bike would move forward with the lever pulled in. It doesn't.

I'm thinking the diaphragm spring on the Vic clutch pack is way overkill. I'm wondering what the dimensions (OD) of the HD reduced effort clutch diaphragm spring vs the Vics is, and what each clutch spring is rated at in lbs. Any one have their Cross Country clutch apart? I have a HD reduced effort spring I can measure for comparison.
My Ducs had very heavy clutch action. But rather than decrease the spring force, aftermarketeers made slave cylinders that used mechanical advantage to lighten the load (trade increased travel for decreased force). This also has the effect of making the engagement range a little longer which makes them easier to modulate.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
522 Posts
I should be getting a kit in the mail in a couple days. Is the spring separated in the kit? If so, tell me how to measure it, and I'll do it.

If you're getting a complete pre-assembled clutch assembly the diaphragm spring will be installed and under the snap ring. I wouldn't expect you to take it apart to take a measurement. You'll need special tools to get it apart and reassemble it. Now if you are just getting steel plates, friction plates and the spring measuring the ID and OD of the spring would be easy.

Tech23
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
219 Posts
If you're getting a complete pre-assembled clutch assembly the diaphragm spring will be installed and under the snap ring. I wouldn't expect you to take it apart to take a measurement. You'll need special tools to get it apart and reassemble it. Now if you are just getting steel plates, friction plates and the spring measuring the ID and OD of the spring would be easy.

Tech23

Oh...yea...sorry. I'm getting the full kit. If it's simple, I could still take measurements.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
522 Posts
I did the same thing and there is still a mile of travel left to disengage the clutch. If the clutch didn't disengage, the bike would move forward with the lever pulled in. It doesn't.

A mile? Mine is kinda fine line, just a hair too much free play and the bike starts creeping the instant the lever moves away from the handlebar.


My Ducs had very heavy clutch action. But rather than decrease the spring force, aftermarketeers made slave cylinders that used mechanical advantage to lighten the load (trade increased travel for decreased force). This also has the effect of making the engagement range a little longer which makes them easier to modulate.
I think maybe you missed my point. I have no doubt that a hydraulic circuit has more mechanical advantage over a cable. My point was maybe the cable sheering problem is a side effect of a clutch spring that is too stiff/overkill. Note the clutch spring is not available separate from Victory, only a complete clutch pack including the spring. This is strange. Victory designed the clutch to be cable operated...it should operate with a cable...No?

EDIT: Also I forgot to mention the combination banjo bolt/bleeder for the hydraulic clutch kit is way overpriced. That part can be had for much less money.

Tech23
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
340 Posts
An adjustable reach clutch lever is not mechanically practical. If you were to adjust the clutch lever closer to the handlebar for smaller hands the lever would not have enough travel left to fully disengage the clutch.

Tech23
I did the same thing and there is still a mile of travel left to disengage the clutch. If the clutch didn't disengage, the bike would move forward with the lever pulled in. It doesn't.
Same here. I adjusted my cable actuated clutch so the pull starts closer to the handlebar and it still disengages the clutch just fine. While attempting to find the "sweet spot", I even over loosened the cable to where the lever was uncomfortably close to the bar (for me) and was still able to disengage it.

I see where you're coming from Tech23, but I don't think a marginal reduction in the lever travel would make it unusable. We're not talking a huge reduction here, just the same adjustment dial the brake lever has. Maybe someone with oversized aftermarket grips and leather lever wraps could run into an issue, but I think it would be fine with stock equipment.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
522 Posts
Same here. I adjusted my cable actuated clutch so the pull starts closer to the handlebar and it still disengages the clutch just fine. While attempting to find the "sweet spot", I even over loosened the cable to where the lever was uncomfortably close to the bar (for me) and was still able to disengage it.

I see where you're coming from Tech23, but I don't think a marginal reduction in the lever travel would make it unusable. We're not talking a huge reduction here, just the same adjustment dial the brake lever has. Maybe someone with oversized aftermarket grips and leather lever wraps could run into an issue, but I think it would be fine with stock equipment.
It's actually not so marginal. There is a difference between pushing pistons out of a brake caliper that's brake pads ride in constant contact with the brake rotors and a a stack of clutch plates that have to move far enough apart to separate each and every plate in the stack or clutch drag will result. When I put the White Brothers easy clutch on my HD I had to take the large OD grips off and install the factory smaller OD grips. The White Brothers easy clutch was very similar to the Victory clutch release arm extension that many had trouble getting adjusted properly. The site that sells the Victory reduced effort clutch arm extensions has a disclaimer, "The E-Z Clutch will work great with the cable clutch systems. Use at own risk". Looks like it was discussed here back in 2011...

http://www.victoryforums.com/showthread.php?t=8928


Tech23
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top