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Discussion Starter #1
I did some more work on my system and just for fun I disconnected the front inputs and hooked the rear speaker inputs into my amp.

They only put out 1.5 volts at max power (29 on display) without clipping so I hooked them to the low level inputs on my amp reset the gains on my amp with the occliscope and DAM!!! there's all the bass I've been missing. There must be some kind of factory low frequency cutoff to keep you from blowing the stock front speakers.

1.5 volts is a pretty weak signal and I don't like having to run the stock radio at 25-28 to get a good signal so I ordered a
Audio Control - Overdrive Plus 2 channel line driver.
Its similar to a Line level converter but it cleans the signal then boosts it so you can feed your amp a good signal adjustable up to 9 volts!

I will receive it Saturday and let you know how it goes also installing the new Vtwin audio 6.5 adaptors and Polk Audio MM6501's looking forward to this!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Well if this goes the way I think it will now I think the Magnum radio/head unit is fantastic.

With the Oscilloscope I was seeing a much cleaner signal coming out of the rear (un amplified ) speaker harness than I was coming from the front amplified signal.

There was a dramatic diffrence in ( sound/bass/warmth ) even with the weak signal I was feeding my JL Audio xd400/4v2 but I had to have the volume turned up to 25+ to get a strong enough signal for the amp to recognize and the amp gains turned up to about 40%.

With the line driver I should be able to adjust it so that the amp gain is set to almost Zero giving me a cleaner signal and more dynamic output.
 

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I'm sure you did...but sometimes the obvious question should be asked. Did you consider the fade setting on the factory stereo? Is it, perhaps, faded to the front - causing the rear signal to be diminished?

Just throwing it out there. :smile There's no logical reason why the rear line level would be any less than the front...not that I can think of.

Next question. Isn't the gain on the after market amp just an op amp, on the input side, which would serve the same purpose as the Overdrive Plus 2?

I'm not familiar with the Magnum system. You said you were tapping into the rear unamplified harness. Does the Magnum factory system have line level outputs so that folks can hook up to line level inputs on aftermarket amps? If so, that's cool. I've always wished the XC did.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
First off I'm not an Audo pro or a know it all!!
Im just a dumb redneck that likes to learn and research things and do everything my self. Just passing along my findings.

No I have the fader is set equal front to rear. I will be moving it fully to the rear today and re measure it to see if it helps increase the signal output to the rear.

The Magnum head unit is only amplified on the front channels. To use the rear speakers you have to buy the rear saddle bag amplifier that mounts under the rear fender.

You are correct in theory about the amp gain. The problem I'm seeing on the Oscilloscope is that the signal is so weak (playing a 1k test tone) that I only get a slightly useable input signal to the amp when I get to about 25 on the volume.
My amplifier requires at least a (low of 200mv - 8v high) signal to work. Most quality aftermarket head units put out 5-8 volts cheaper ones only about 2v there is just a huge sound quality with the higher voltage.

No unfortunately there is no RCA's ( low level ) coming out of the stock head unit. Just the rear unamplified signal which in theory is the same thing if I solder RCA's onto the speaker wire, it is just too weak of a signal to propperly feed the amp hence the need for the line driver.

I think all Victory bikes work this way? The only amplified signal is the front speakers if you add a trunk or saddle bag speakers you have to purchase there little amp for the rear. The CC Tour comes with this secondary amp installed already. So with the rear signal you are getting an unfiltered unprocessed clean signal it's just too weak to propperly drive the amp to its full power cleanly!
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Dustin- That is a bad ass system I'm sure!! I'm just not sold on the looks or the gauge yet I like the analog gauges! Those guys that make that dash are only 30min from me and I have seen there work several times just can't bring my self to do it.

I may end up going a similar route if I don't get the desired results I'm looking for Rusty Jones is coming out with a single din mounting system that replaces the plastic piece that hides the Windsheild brackets.
 

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First off I'm not an Audo pro or a know it all!!
Im just a dumb redneck that likes to learn and research things and do everything my self. Just passing along my findings.

No I have the fader is set equal front to rear. I will be moving it fully to the rear today and re measure it to see if it helps increase the signal output to the rear.

The Magnum head unit is only amplified on the front channels. To use the rear speakers you have to buy the rear saddle bag amplifier that mounts under the rear fender.

You are correct in theory about the amp gain. The problem I'm seeing on the Oscilloscope is that the signal is so weak (playing a 1k test tone) that I only get a slightly useable input signal to the amp when I get to about 25 on the volume.
My amplifier requires at least a (low of 200mv - 8v high) signal to work. Most quality aftermarket head units put out 5-8 volts cheaper ones only about 2v there is just a huge sound quality with the higher voltage.

No unfortunately there is no RCA's ( low level ) coming out of the stock head unit. Just the rear unamplified signal which in theory is the same thing if I solder RCA's onto the speaker wire, it is just too weak of a signal to propperly feed the amp hence the need for the line driver.

I think all Victory bikes work this way? The only amplified signal is the front speakers if you add a trunk or saddle bag speakers you have to purchase there little amp for the rear. The CC Tour comes with this secondary amp installed already. So with the rear signal you are getting an unfiltered unprocessed clean signal it's just too weak to propperly drive the amp to its full power cleanly!
I'm only trying to help. Something seems wrong with what you're reporting.

If you're seeing line voltage at 1.5 (1,500mV) with the factory stereo cranked, that's right in the window of a good line level. You shouldn't need a line driver in addition to the amp's gain stage. Did you switch the input level on the amp to "low"? The low setting should allow you to use a signal from 200mV to 2V.

I don't think I knew that the XC Tour used a separate amp for the rear speakers. If that's true, I'll be going back in to hook my amp up with that line level signal so I can bypass the factory amp. That would be ideal.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Yah the amp set to low input.

I'm just trying to improve on it more I could probably run it the way it is but I have had a 2v head unit in my car and changed it out for a 5v from the same Mfg and it completely blew the other one away in sound quality,volume, and bass. I'm hoping for the same improvement I saw using the line driver.


overdrive plus
2 channel line driver with optional level control
High performance car audio amplifiers love lots of signal voltage. This allows them to deliver optimum sound quality and maximum bass response. Unfortunately, many of today’s after market source units don’t output the optimum voltage levels these amplifier need. The AudioControl OVERDRIVE PLUS pre-amp line driver increases the line level signals from aftermarket source units up to 13 volts max (9.5 RMS) and delivers them downstream to the amplifiers inputs. The results are increased dynamic range, maximum signal-to-noise levels, and tremendous bass response. Autosound enthusiasts will enjoy dramatically improved sound quality of their after market audio system.
The OVERDRIVE PLUS features an optional dash control input which facilitates remote control of pre-amp signal levels. This makes the OVERDRIVE PLUS ideal an a controller for overall system master volume or subwoofer levels.
features
High signal voltage capability: 9.5 volts RMS output
24dB of gain
Input for optional Dash Control for remote level
Ultra-low distortion, ultra-quiet operation
Low noise, high current output circuitry
High-headroom PWM switching power supply
Selectable ground isolation
Voltage indicator LEDs
specifications
inputs
Preamp Inputs: 1 (2 channels)
Input Gain: 24dB
Input Impedance: 20kΩ
outputs
Preamp Outputs: 4 (8 channels)
Maximum Output Level: 9.5Vrms
Output Impedance: 45Ω
performance
Total Harmonic Distortion: 0.005%
Frequency Response: 10Hz-100kHz ±1dB
Signal to Noise: >110dB
control
Remote In
general
Power Supply: Transformer Isolated PWM
Current Draw: 150mA
Recommended Fuse Rating: 1A
weights & dimensions
Dimensions: 5″W x 4.25″D x 1.25″H
Weight: 2.0lbs (0.91kg)
in the box: OverDrive Plus, Power Connector, Manual, Warranty
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Ok I tapped into the factory rear speaker wires in the fairing.
The wires are
Orange and Orange/black
Pink and Pink/black

I then put them straight into the amp and tuned the gains. There was a huge difference in the bass response! Sounded pretty good way better than running the front amplified signal into the amp.

Then I installed the line driver and retuned the gains. Holy crap!! This thing came alive and was Kicking!! My lids were jumping and the highs and lows were just crazy! The difference was so dramatic that it's hard to explain.

Ok here is the problem.
I removed the line driver and went back to just straight into the amp. Every time I powered up the bike with the key everything turned on and worked and sounded good.
But when I started the bike the speakers would make a popping noise as the line driver turned on and then again as the amp turned on this happens both with auto sence turn on and 12volt remote turn on.

I will be calling Audio Controll today and talking to tech support to see what they recomend and I will be stopping at my local dealer and pick up a JL audio line driver to see if there is a difference.

I really hate that popping sound it makes it sound like you have a piece of **** but it is almost worth it cause it was sounding so crazy good!
 

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If you had the volume to ZERO on the factory unit, would it still pop when you start it?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I'm not sure I tried that volume setting but I think so.

But it only does it when starting the bike?
 

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Didn't you say you took the line driver out for now? Did the popping stop once you disconnected the line driver? I would assume so.

I'm still concerned that you're overdriving the input stage of your amp with the line driver. You said that you were getting 1.5v from the factory stereo with the volume turned up. The low level input on your amp is only rated up to 2V.

I'd run without the line driver because I just don't see the point in the extra gain stage.

If you insist on running it, try cranking the line driver so that the 8V light just flickers once in a blue moon, and flip the amp's input switch back to the high-level - which should be able to handle up to 8V.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
I had the line driver set for 8 volts at volume level 28 the loudest the head unit still continues to makes power without clipping wile measuring with the oscilloscope. Then I set the amps input switch to high level (8v max) then set the gains zero. I adjusted the gains till it clipped then backed them down (to about 15% )till it was a clean sine wave at full volume 28. So I got a perfect sine wave with everything hooked up and not overdriven and no clipping.

I know you might not believe it but it sounded like I added a million wats of power to the system with the line driver! Everything just sounded crisp, powerful and effortless even at low volume's.

When I went back to just the rear speaker inputs I put the input switch on the amp back to low level (2v max) and set the gains with the Oscilloscope again turning the gains up till I caw clipping then backed them back down to (about 40% up) a clean sine wave. Don't get me wrong it sounds good but it sounds muffled and has no where near the bass response compared to with the line driver.

I'm still getting a very slight pop On start up, you have to really listen for it. It's nothing compared to the two louder pops I was getting. And it only does it when you start the bike just like before, key on only it all powers up fine??

Did some reading today and I may need to purchase a amp turn on delay module. I'm going to talk to my local pro tomorrow and see what he thinks.
 

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What oscilloscope are you using, and what is your signal path to send the 1k sine wave through the system?
 
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