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Discussion Starter #1
I believe the idle on my 2004 is lower than any bike I've owned. I looked for a way to dial it in and then read somewhere that you have to adjust it at the throttle cables. Also, good idea to clean throttle body.

It has 11,000 + on the clock and I'm not ready to tear into it just yet.

Don't have a tach but guess idle is around 700 rpm. This causes some choking at some of the stops. Once it has warmed up some, not really a problem but it definitely needs adjusting.

So are throttle cables the only way to bring up idle?

List of things to do:
1)change oil
2)change plugs
3)lube clutch
4)clean throttle body... change out fuel filter while in there
5)check air filter
 

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Low idle is the first sign of dirty throttle bodies ... You really should start there first .thumb upcheers
 

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Also , make sure your battery terminals are clean and tight !
 

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DillPickle311

when you bought the bike did you get the owners book. If not at the bottom of Victory home page its there and it would be a good read for you. Like you have to put bike straight up and down to check oil screwing dip stick all the way in to get true reading.
Yes you can adjust idle with throttle cable. If you go to the for sale forum here you might find a tack for your bike
http://www.victorymotorcycles.com/en-us
 

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You may want to check the throttle bodies. When the get dirty, the bike will idle lower and start to run rich.
I had to do it about every 7-8000 miles on my 05.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I know about the throttle bodies now. I'm surprised that this is a recurring maintenance issue. I'm a generalist when it comes to taking care of a bike. I don't mind the normal upkeep but removing the tank to get at them is not my idea of a normal routine. It does look simple to do various wrenching tasks, i.e., oil/filter, spark plugs.

Is that the main air filter under the tank? Is the fuel filter there too!?

Dang! I've got to get the bike books on my phone and start studying.

I guess I'll have get my mechanic to help out... :( he won't be happy!

 

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Once you take the tank off once or twice , it will be like changing your under trousers , I can have mine off in 5 minutes .....:D
 

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If I got good enough reason, mine come off much faster. Lol!
Ain't that the truth!! :D

Yeah, like everyone said, it's not a big deal to remove the tank. A couple of things to know will help though. Run the tank down to at least 1/4 tank so it's not so heavy with gas and be careful when removing the fuel line from the tank or where it plugs into at the other end. Different folks prefer one or the other.

What a lot of people do to put off cleaning the TB's until they have the time and inclination is to simply raise the idle. You will need to lower it when you do clean the TB's. To do this look under the tank on the left side towards the back for a Philips head screw. Mine is kind of a brass color if I remember right. A long skinny Phillips screw driver will reach it. Turn it right to raise the idle speed. You want the idle to be at 1000 when warm. You have the idle lever on the left grip housing for when it's cold. This is not a choke. It simply raises the idle speed. You can also use this to keep the idle up but I find it to be a pain. I'd rather just have it on when cold then kick it completely off when warm and let the idle adjustment under the tank take it from there. Your choice.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I can stand outside for 5 minutes and I'm drenching wet... even without shirt or pants. :D The tank will wait! In the meantime, I'll twist the little screw, add sea foam, fill er up and ride. I'll brave the heat/humidity this weekend to change oil at least... maybe plugs too!

I appreciate you guys chiming in. It's a fun little bike and needs some tlc. I enjoy riding much more knowing that everything is in good shape except the nut riding it.:p
 

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I believe the idle on my 2004 is lower than any bike I've owned. I looked for a way to dial it in and then read somewhere that you have to adjust it at the throttle cables. Also, good idea to clean throttle body.

It has 11,000 + on the clock and I'm not ready to tear into it just yet.

Don't have a tach but guess idle is around 700 rpm. This causes some choking at some of the stops. Once it has warmed up some, not really a problem but it definitely needs adjusting.

So are throttle cables the only way to bring up idle?

List of things to do:
1)change oil
2)change plugs
3)lube clutch
4)clean throttle body... change out fuel filter while in there
5)check air filter

Do not adjust your idle with the cables....
Your idle will change when you turn the bars.
Make sure there is free play in the cables.. You should be able to move the throttle grip a small amount and not change the idle speed... That's cable free play...

There is a stop screw you can adjust to increase the idle. It is actually there to stop the throttle body butterflies from jamming in the throttle body. It's the screw without any springs. The 2 screws with the springs are to balance the the idle between the cyl... Don't adjust them unless you know what you are doing .....

Above is for FI bikes not carbs....
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Do not adjust your idle with the cables....
Your idle will change when you turn the bars.
Make sure there is free play in the cables.. You should be able to move the throttle grip a small amount and not change the idle speed... That's cable free play...

There is a stop screw you can adjust to increase the idle. It is actually there to stop the throttle body butterflies from jamming in the throttle body. It's the screw without any springs. The 2 screws with the springs are to balance the the idle between the cyl... Don't adjust them unless you know what you are doing .....

Above is for FI bikes not carbs....
Right! If you had read my previous post, I had thanked BBob for his response to find the screw under tank on the left side. Cable play is perfect and now my idle is perfect. I just got back from a 50 mile ride and had to re-adust the idle screw due to it being a little too high. I'm telling you, having this idle set higher than what it was is fantastic. I'm thinking it may have been right around 500 rpms and I kept choking it out and having problems starting it.

Other bikes I have owned had an adjustment twist you could change with fingers. To get to the vegas idle screw, I removed the cover over key switch. Nothing to it. Really didn't have turn very far to the right to raise idle. This great!
 

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Right! If you had read my previous post, I had thanked BBob for his response to find the screw under tank on the left side. Cable play is perfect and now my idle is perfect. I just got back from a 50 mile ride and had to re-adust the idle screw due to it being a little too high. I'm telling you, having this idle set higher than what it was is fantastic. I'm thinking it may have been right around 500 rpms and I kept choking it out and having problems starting it.

Other bikes I have owned had an adjustment twist you could change with fingers. To get to the vegas idle screw, I removed the cover over key switch. Nothing to it. Really didn't have turn very far to the right to raise idle. This great!
Your idle is controlled by the idle air solenoid. It sounds like yours is not working properly. Most people try and turn there idle down so they get that loopy Harley affect.. Or try to anyway. But the air solenoid adds air and the injectors add gas to keep the idle where the computer wants it to be.

I noticed some people said you may need to clean the throttle bodies. And maybe that is true but the air solenoid should control your idle if it's working right.......
 

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I can stand outside for 5 minutes and I'm drenching wet... even without shirt or pants. :D The tank will wait! In the meantime, I'll twist the little screw, add sea foam, fill er up and ride. I'll brave the heat/humidity this weekend to change oil at least... maybe plugs too!

I appreciate you guys chiming in. It's a fun little bike and needs some tlc. I enjoy riding much more knowing that everything is in good shape except the nut riding it.:p
Good luck with that. If you do have dirty throttle bodies, and do not clean them, you will end up fouling plugs. Just hope you aren't 200 miles from home when you do. But you may be right, maybe the PO dropped the idle.
 

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service manual

an on-line or paper manual can save $$$$ over time, a few tools needed as well. i enjoy doing my own work + help is available from the many great forum members!!
 

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I noticed some people said you may need to clean the throttle bodies. And maybe that is true but the air solenoid should control your idle if it's working right.......
Rob he is on a 2004 V92, no solenoid and yes dirty TBs on the freedom 92 can drop your duel by as much 300-400 RPM on them depending how bad they are. Honestly I think after all the pains with my IAV on the Vision I think I would prefer the older design.
100% right on dialing down the idle for the HD lope. Got a tach on my 04 so don't have much advice exempt adjust just above the lope sound after she warms up 3-5 min.

Tim
 

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Rob he is on a 2004 V92, no solenoid and yes dirty TBs on the freedom 92 can drop your duel by as much 300-400 RPM on them depending how bad they are. Honestly I think after all the pains with my IAV on the Vision I think I would prefer the older design.
100% right on dialing down the idle for the HD lope. Got a tach on my 04 so don't have much advice exempt adjust just above the lope sound after she warms up 3-5 min.

Tim
Hi Tim
The V92 have fuel injection ?

What issues did you have with your IAV ... .?
 

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Hi Tim
The V92 have fuel injection ?

What issues did you have with your IAV ... .?
Yup, V92 still injectors but they sure don't like dirty TBs disrupting the air flow caused by the routing of the crank case breather. Once they resolved the crank case breather on the V100, no more TB cleaning.

Idle solenoid gives me similar symptoms that we all have experienced during warm up approaching a stop sign etc. I never installed the IAV valve from lloydz but it did seem to get less annoying after I got a tune.
 
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