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Discussion Starter #1
I dont think Im taking a wrench to my bike anymore. I took my rear to get the tire put on. I ran into hell with the adjusters, I had to rip the exhaust off to finish the job. Finally get the wheel mounted.

Now to tackle the belt deflection, got the belt riding just off the inside of pulley. Get the bike back together, roll out and no frigging rear brakes.

Take a look the metal spring thingy was out of place, reset that and still no brakes. I check the belt and well wtf its on the outside of the pulley now.

Im beside myself :confused:
 

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I dont think Im taking a wrench to my bike anymore. I took my rear to get the tire put on. I ran into hell with the adjusters, I had to rip the exhaust off to finish the job. Finally get the wheel mounted.

Now to tackle the belt deflection, got the belt riding just off the inside of pulley. Get the bike back together, roll out and no frigging rear brakes.

Take a look the metal spring thingy was out of place, reset that and still no brakes. I check the belt and well wtf its on the outside of the pulley now.

Im beside myself :confused:
I tried to warn ye'all.
 

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Aligning the belt is much harder on the vic then it was on the 2009 softail. For a while I thought there had to be a hump in the middle of the pulley. Not sure their isn't . No reason it should be that touchy.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
What sucks is that I cant safely ride it to check the belt better.
Hopefully tomorrow I'll be able to get a clue on the brake issue. Doubt its air, but who knows.
 

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To bad Vic doesn't make the belt a 1/8" narrower.
Then it would be easier
 

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Yep I did my belt the other day...about 15 minutes to tighten and another two hours of trying to get it adjusted. Easy to run it to either side, then taking a quarter turn at a time was able to bring it back to the middle. Get everything all tightened back up, roll it by hand both directions several times then all of a sudden it is back to one side or the other. Never was able to get it to stay in the middle, finally gave up and went riding.....no squeeking, so I am ok with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Giving up and riding sounds good to me, but no brakes could put a hamper on things LOL.

I spoke with my brother, he thinks something is binding up at the caliper. Then I wondered, I might have twisted the brake hose. He said that would make it hard as a rock. So, that comes off tomorrow.

As far as the belt goes. When adjusting should drop the bike off the stand and roll it around ? Since I rolled out the driveway and the belt did move to the outside.
 

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What saddlebag said.... the 'do it yourself' thing is great for lots of things, but a motorcycle, that's got some history of 'pain in the ass' fixits, not so much.

I'm TOTALLY wrenchey enough to do my oil... and adjust my mirrors. With my BMW's I'd set the valves and adjust the throttle bodies...... ya gotta be comfortable with the procedure, but then I guess you felt you were until you got into trouble... either lesson learned and take it to somebody next time, or lesson learned and you'll know what you did wrong for next time...

Sucks that changing a tire can become rocket science... these designers 'should' keep it simple, but then they don't get the fix it $$$$, progress.
 

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My belt was squeaking so I tried centering it. Its not perfect but no more squeaking . close enough Lets go riding.
 

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I have came to the conclusion that the belt will never run down the middle of the rear pulley, for one look how wide the front pulley is, it also has no sides to guide the belt so it is gonna have some movement side to side. This movement is why the belt will NEVER ride straight down the pulley! So in saying this stick to what is correct - align the rear tire by measuring from the center of the Swingarm pivot to center of the rear axle (you cannot get more true than that) of course you do not align until after you have set the tension...
 

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Discussion Starter #12
that I do fronts ftw lol

from what i can tell the tension is correct.

I use a small ruler and set in the little semi circle on the swing arm perpendicular to the belt it reads 7mm, I then push up with the tool to 10lbs and it shows 8.2 mm roughly. So thats 12mm for spec.

Now correct if Im wrong on any of that. Also thats just done on the tightest spot on the belt correct?
 

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Yep I did my belt the other day...about 15 minutes to tighten and another two hours of trying to get it adjusted. Easy to run it to either side, then taking a quarter turn at a time was able to bring it back to the middle. Get everything all tightened back up, roll it by hand both directions several times then all of a sudden it is back to one side or the other. Never was able to get it to stay in the middle, finally gave up and went riding.....no squeeking, so I am ok with it.
I had a couple of senior milage VIC operators tell me after doing the above, you roll it back and it tracks just off the right into the center DONT mess with it when it tracks back to the right after you ride UNLESS you get the squeak... Changing the rear tire just got easier after that... and no squeaks either.
 

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I'm with you 8BALL. I do my oil change, plugs simple things. Might even attempt Adjustable timing wheel and 1/4 turn throttle but when it comes to tires I am not interested. To many things can get screwed up by Me or scratched or broken so I will leave it to a Dealer I have used before. Tech is excellent and Dealer is the same. Not the closest dealer but about a 45 minute ride. What he can do in an hour or two I could do in a day or two and I will save myself a lot of aggravation. Good luck with your bike.
 

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When I go to pull my wheel. I take a 1/2" deep socket and some long extensions. Then back off the adjusters 12 full turns. When I put the wheel back on 12 full turns in groups of 2 or 3 and the wheel is right back where I started.
 

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Aligning the belt is much harder on the vic then it was on the 2009 softail. For a while I thought there had to be a hump in the middle of the pulley. Not sure their isn't . No reason it should be that touchy.
Harley has a very unique and effective (imagine that) belt tension system with their axle cam design. I'm guessing they have a patent on it as to why you don't see anyone else use it.
 

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You guys are all putting way more into wheel alignment than what is called for. It should be a 5 minute procedure, and it is NOT designed to track down the center of the pulley! If you are trying to achieve this, no wonder you are running into issues. Here is the correct procedure according to the manual.

1. Marks (A) and (B) are used as a reference for initial
wheel alignment. Marks should be in same position on
both left and right sides of wheel.
2. Loosen axle nut (C).
3. Safely elevate motorcycle with tire off floor.
4. Turn adjuster nuts (D) to achieve:
• Recommended belt tension
• Wheel alignment (marks equal both sides)
5. When belt tension is correct, check and adjust final
wheel alignment as follows:
NOTE: To minimize change in belt tension, use LEFT
SIDE adjuster only (E) to make final adjustments to
belt alignment. Be sure to keep axle seated forward
against axle adjusters during this procedure.
6. Rotate the wheel BACKWARD. Tighten LEFT rear axle
adjuster until belt begins to track to right sprocket
flange (outboard) during backward wheel rotation.
Rear Wheel Alignment - Final
7. Rotate the wheel in FORWARD direction. Loosen
LEFT rear axle adjuster until belt moves off the right
flange and begins to track to left sprocket flange
(inboard) during forward wheel rotation.
8. Tighten rear axle nut to 88 Nm (65 lb-ft).
9. Torque both axle adjuster nuts to 11 N-m (8 lb-ft).
10. Pump rear brake pedal several times to reset brake
pad distance.
11. Verify wheel rotates smoothly and freely without drag
when brake pedal is released.
 

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I have found a easy way for me, (although I am sure the safety police wouldn't approve) after I have the belt deflection within specs, I leave the bike up on the jack start and put it in gear and adjust the belt center while the tire is moving at a idle in first gear. Simple and quick and has always worked well. It doesn't always stay perfectly centered but it never rubs the sides and I have never had a belt chirp or any noise since I paid the dealer to adjust it. When I rode it home from the dealer is made noise and was way to tight. It took me less time to re-due it myself than to return it to the dealer.thumb up
 

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I have found a easy way for me, (although I am sure the safety police wouldn't approve) after I have the belt deflection within specs, I leave the bike up on the jack start and put it in gear and adjust the belt center while the tire is moving at a idle in first gear. Simple and quick and has always worked well. It doesn't always stay perfectly centered but it never rubs the sides and I have never had a belt chirp or any noise since I paid the dealer to adjust it. When I rode it home from the dealer is made noise and was way to tight. It took me less time to re-due it myself than to return it to the dealer.thumb up
LIKE IT!thumb up
 
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