Victory Motorcycle Forum banner

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
243 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Just got mine in, was eager to install and the install was pretty simple until I got to the wiring. To date, there are no pics or video, and I'm stuck. So, as some of you start installation would you take pics or better yet post a video. That would be greatly appreciated by the mechanically disadvantaged.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
143 Posts
Wish I could help, but haven't recieved mine yet.

I have the lowers with light kit ordered (since July 11), so once mine come in I will either share your pain or maybe help figure it out.

How long did it take between order and delivery for you?

Hope to be able to share more soon.

Cheers,
Randy
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
143 Posts
Recieved my lowers late yesterday afternoon and started installation shortly after that. I had to remove my homemade lexan lowers first and then ran into my first snag. I couldn't find a 15 mm socket to remove the forged bar bolts. Had to run to Lowes to pick one up.

Back in the garage with the new 15 mm socket. Working the right side first, found the bolts holding the bars to the frame a real bitch to get loose. Took a bit, but finally had them off and then trying to put them back in with the JTD lower mounting bracket in place. That was also a bit of pain to get the bolts lined up and turning into the threaded hole, but finally got them in and just short of tightened up (left loose per instructions). Attaching the 3 lower bolts to the mounting brackets was a breeze and once that was done tightened up the 3 crash bar bolts and was done with one side, minus the wiring of the lights.

The left side went much smoother and quicker with no issues removing bolts or getting them back in with the lower mounting brackets in place.

Then removed the saddlebags, my Utopia backrest, the seat, and the gas tank bolts. Lifted the gas tank a bit, propped it up with a 2x6 and ran the lower light wiring down the center of the frame and zip tied them in a couple places to hold them down.

Here's where the instructions seemed a little confusing. The describe a main wiring harness that is under the seat and the wiring diagram shows all the wires that need to tapped into coming out of single connector at the end of that wiring harness. What I found is the switched power wire for the LED running lights in one bundle of wires and the turn signal wires for the LED turn signals in another bundle of wires. See picture below for what this looks like after all the posi-taps are connected.

Verified all the lights were working and bolted the gas tank, seat, and backrest back in place. Put the saddlebags back on and was ready to roll.

The look of these lowers is incredible compared to my lexan sheets. The lexans lowers didn't look that bad, but the JTD lowers look like they were part of the forged bars and came with the bike. The unpainted black plastic is somewhat shinny, so they actually look pretty close to the gloss black of my bike, maybe just slightly less glossy. I'm not sure I will even need to paint these things.

It was 9:30 pm by this time, so only had time for a short ride down a few side streets. Realized after I was down the street a bit that I had left the Vic fork lowers on, which I intended to remove. I didn't get to the highway, but ran at a pretty good speed on a main feeder road and could tell the wind managment is going to be awesome. Had the vents full open, but the wind on my legs was very clean. The effect of the angle of the opening at the outside of the lower is to funnel a clean stream of air out away from your legs towards the back of the bike and this results in a turbulance free area from the legs upward. The open inside vents allowed air to flow past the engine, also very cleanly past the lower legs. So I could feel the breeze on my legs, but it didn't feel like it was trying to rip my jeans apart. I imagine it will be great in the winter with the vents closed.

The LED lights are also incredible. They are very bright white and they compliment the 6k HID light very well. The combination really lights up the road. The LED turn signals are a nice addition too.

Anyway, I'm up too late and I've rambled on a bit so I'll just conclude with saying I am very impressed with these lowers and can't wait to get them on the higway and put some miles on with them.

Regards,
Randy





 

·
Registered
Joined
·
634 Posts
Looks really good on your bike. Nice job. And, so far, you say they're doing what they are suppossed to do.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
573 Posts
Good post Randy! Pictures worth a 1000 words:D

Couple questions, 1) are the lights adjustable? 2) when you mention the LED turn signals is that part of the kit, or something else?

I presume it gets warm in No Texas? Please post after you ride in some heat, I.e. any lowers seem to restrict airflow to some degree. We're your lexan lowers homemade or commercial?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
143 Posts
So my initial ride last night was with the Vic fork lowers still installed and the wind was calm.

This morning riding in to work, without the fork lowers and a pretty good cross wind and about 10 miles on the highway doing 70 mph, the results weren't as ideal as I hoped. Not sure if it was the extra wind or removing the fork lowers or just being at highway speed or maybe all three contributed to it. I probably had my expectations set too high.

The lower area, below the waist, wind management was still very good, but I was feeling more turbulance from the waist up than last night. I don't know that I would call it buffeting, so again maybe I'm being unrealistic about wanting minimal air blowing around me. Moving my hand around between the top of the crash bar and bottom of the fairing, there was a significant amount of wind coming through and flowing up the side of the gas tank into my stomach and chest area. Combined with the wind the comes over the top of my new Cee Dragon and hits just at the top of my helmet with the visor raised, I think cause just enough turbulance in my face/sunglasses area to make it annoying. I ended up closing the visor and then was fine. Still had my shirt blowing around a good bit from the wind coming under the fairing.

So as usual, the windshield and helmet factor significantly into the equation, but I do think the JTD lowers help more than not having them and more than just the sheet style lower like Cee Flectors. I also need to do a ride with the wife on the back as she always complained about the wind blowing up her pant legs before and I think that will be better with these new lowers.

I am still very impressed overall and realy realy like the look. Would be even better if I could leave the fork lowers off, but think I will have to put them back on and try the same run to work to see if they make a significant difference.

Cheers,
Randy
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
143 Posts
Good post Randy! Pictures worth a 1000 words:D

Couple questions, 1) are the lights adjustable? 2) when you mention the LED turn signals is that part of the kit, or something else?

I presume it gets warm in No Texas? Please post after you ride in some heat, I.e. any lowers seem to restrict airflow to some degree. We're your lexan lowers homemade or commercial?
The lights are not adjustable. They seem to be wide angle so they are visible from front and a good ways towards the sides. Not sure the exact angles yet.

The lowers also include a small orange LED light strip near the top outside for the turn signals. If you look close at the picture from the front, it looks like a strip of white. This is just the effect of the flash on the camera as I didn't have the lights on when I took the picture.

The high today is 98 so I'll see if there is any noticeable difference in heat on the ride home today. My lexan lowers were homemade, but modeled after the summer version of the Cee Flectors. They didn't fill in the inside area of the crash bars as much as the Cee Flectors and they had a pretty good gap next to the engine to allow air to flow through. Biggest difference was that they were angled more from top to bottom so they pushed the air down under my feet then up into the passengers feet & legs.

Cheers,
Randy
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
336 Posts
I posted this somewhere else but I'll post it again. I think the main issue with buffeting on these bikes is the distance between the rider and the fairing or windshield as well as that nice gap between the fairing and gas tank which.

My current setup on my XR is the Vic fairing. The windshield hits me at chin level and my chin is 24 1/2" away from the windshield. I get moderate buffeting with or without my forged lowers.

My Harley FLHTP windshield hits at the same height. The windshield is 20" away from my face. When I push myself all the way back on the seat but keep my face at the same level, I am 24" away from the windshield but start to get, you guessed it, moderate buffetting.
Helmet type or complete lack of helmet makes no difference. I've tried it with a beanie, full face Arai, full face Shoei and a 3/4 Bell Police Pro.

While my soft lowers help as do the JTDs and anything else out there, they are in my opinion putting a band aid on a broken leg. That distance from the windshield to the rider is the critical factor and unless you are using a flip windshield, which many report as making a huge improvement, the distance will not change.

I think this is why we see people of roughly the same dimensions with different reports of how the buffeting effects them. Look at your riding stance and that of your riding buddies. You get anything from bolt upright to Quasimodo hunching. If you are hunched forward, there is a great possibility that you are putting yourself in a sweet spot in regards to how close you are to the windshield.

I like the idea of the JTD lowers for cool weather riding and even a 10% improvement in air management would make me happy. They look great and I'm the only thing holding me back from buying a set is the fact that it is slow at work right now. I especially appreciate your honest assessment of the product. It's tough to buck up for something and not try to err on the side of "yeah it worked better than I expected."
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
144 Posts
Billy, that is one of the best posts I have read period. I think you are exactly right and explained the problem in clear English. I am running a 2012 XC with a 17" Cee Bailey regular shield with the vent option and I also have the Wind Breakers lower deflectors. When I lean forward I definitely get into the sweet spot where everything is right with the universe and as I move back I get wind/buffeting. I use the Vic flip shield in the summer to get more air but on the highway it is impossible to ride with. I have thought about the Cee Bailey Dragon but Joe at Cee Bailey said the best air he got after months of testing was with the shield I have. Anyway, I am sure this conversation will continue but do you have any thoughts about the Dragon as a fix?
Thanks
John
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
336 Posts
Thanks Johnah, glad I could say something that at least one person saw as intelligent.

No idea on that particular shield but again I think rider postition might have a lot to do with it. My wife is about 4" shorter then I am. When she is on my bike, all I see is eyes and helmet. She reports no buffeting at all. However, she is a sloucher so I know for a fact that her riding position puts her closer to the fairing.

I think it is a combo of being closer to the fairing and at the right height. The lowers are icing on the cake. I know that the soft Vic shields help so I am sure that any other lower will help somewhat as well. I can only say...and this is coming from someone who would stop riding before buying a new Harley...my Harley has practically no buffetting. Something else of interest, when I put soft lowers on the Harley for the winter, there is little to no change to the airflow for the rider. Only keeps my feet warmer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
143 Posts
Billy, excellect analysis of the buffeting issue. I think the forged bars on the cross bikes may be getting somewhat of a bad rap. I know they are a factor but I think the fairing is the biggest factor. While helmets will not change the air pattern, they do make a difference on how tolerable the buffeting is for the rider. I don't enjoy riding with a half helmet anymore and on the highway I often have to close the visor on my 3/4 helmet. I would imagine with a full helmet it would be even better.

That said, I have done several trips weekend and week long with my homemade lowers and the Vic fork lowers and a Vic tall windshield without and significant issues. I now have a 19" Cee Dragon on and buffeting has become more noticeable. Removing the fork lowers after installing the JTD lowers has brought the buffeting back to the boderline of intolerable. Will likely need to the fork lowers back on. Really like the look of the Cee Dragon, but I will probably go back to a tall windsheild for winter (not the Vic tall howerver).

So for me, the JTD lowers add a much better look at a better price compared to Cee Flectors or Vic hard lowers.

Cheers,
Randy
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
336 Posts
I agree on the forged bars catching all of the grief. The lowers look fantastic on your bike. It's going to be interesting to see your thoughts after a couple of thousand miles and some more tweaking in the windshield area.

I think I am going to toss my forged bars back on today since I have not tried them with my fairing only with a couple of windshields. I'm not expecting a huge difference.

One thing that I was surprised with in regards to the buffeting / wind management. The other day I got caught in a downpour for about 5 miles. My shoes and pants up to about my knees were pretty wet. Everything else was barely touched by the raindrops. It was actually kind of freakish the way I was so dry.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
573 Posts
I posted this somewhere else but I'll post it again. I think the main issue with buffeting on these bikes is the distance between the rider and the fairing or windshield as well as that nice gap between the fairing and gas tank which.

While my soft lowers help as do the JTDs and anything else out there, they are in my opinion putting a band aid on a broken leg. That distance from the windshield to the rider is the critical factor and unless you are using a flip windshield, which many report as making a huge improvement, the distance will not change.

."
I definitely agree it's the distance to the shield, that's why my VStrom and Road Glide also have buffeting. However, the air from underneath creates a low pressure area behind the shield,,,this causes the air to "tumble", i.e. and increases the buffeting. Lowers are not a band aid, they are the cure (other than redesigning the entire bike to move the seat closer to the windshield:p).

By reducing the low pressure area, you reduce the buffeting. The wind deflectors on the XCT also help with this. There are some other items, winglets on the forged bars, etc, all try to do the same thing and all help.

I have tried 6 or 7 different helmets. I agree that the helmet doesn't change the buffeting. However, it definitely can affect how the buffeting feels to the rider. My full face Nolan is the worst, the shield starts rattling (before I added the hard lowers) and would drive me crazy. I found the 3/4 works best (for me of course). Everyone is different.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
143 Posts
First ride home in the Texas heat with the JTD lowers on. It was stinking hot! But then it always is. I couldn't tell any significant difference between my previous homemade lowers and with the JTDs on.

Temperature was just under 100, but my temp reading on the instrument panel was showing around 106 after riding for 5 to 10 mins. The sun was mostly direct, not too many clouds in the sky.

While underway, I had plenty of air flowing past the engine and my legs so I mainly felt the heat of the sun on the top of my legs. While stopped at lights, the engine heat would quickly rise up in front of me and add to the heat of the sun. It gets pretty uncomfortable after a few minutes. Howerver, pretty quick after getting underway again, the air is flowing and it is just the sun itself beating down on me.

By the time I got home (~45 mins) I was dripping in sweat as usual.

I only rode without any crash bar lowers for a week or so when I first got the bike, and that was in the fall, so I have no idea what it would be like in this heat with no lowers. I don't like the direct wind on any part of body, so going without the lowers is not an option.

Going on an overnight ride this weekend with the wife. Will be riding around 3 hours early morning there and back the next day. Hopefully will get the positive feedback from the wife on the lower area wind management too.

Cheers,
Randy
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
143 Posts
Btw, I saw an email indicating a post was made by rking35209 who started this thread, but I don't see the actual post in the forum. Not sure how that happens.

Anyway, the question was asked how I knew which wires to tap into.

The instructions I received with my lowers had a wiring diagram page which showed the color of the wires, like black for ground, yellow/pink for the switched 12v, dark blue/red for turn signal, dark blue for turn signal. I don't have the sheet with me so not sure those are the exact right colors.

Found these colored wires in the wire bundles and posi-tapped into them. For ground I used the black wire attached to the gas tank as it was outside of the bundle and had lots of room for the 4 posi-taps. The instructions seemed to indicate all the wires were in the same bundle, but I found the yellow/pink one the main bundle coming from the fuse box and the turn signal wires in the smaller bundle running to the back of the bike. I had tapped into this later bundle before for a brake light modulator, so I knew that these wires were for the rear lights and rear turn signals.

Hope that helps.

Cheers,
Randy
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
243 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Btw, I saw an email indicating a post was made by rking35209 who started this thread, but I don't see the actual post in the forum. Not sure how that happens.

Anyway, the question was asked how I knew which wires to tap into.

The instructions I received with my lowers had a wiring diagram page which showed the color of the wires, like black for ground, yellow/pink for the switched 12v, dark blue/red for turn signal, dark blue for turn signal. I don't have the sheet with me so not sure those are the exact right colors.

Found these colored wires in the wire bundles and posi-tapped into them. For ground I used the black wire attached to the gas tank as it was outside of the bundle and had lots of room for the 4 posi-taps. The instructions seemed to indicate all the wires were in the same bundle, but I found the yellow/pink one the main bundle coming from the fuse box and the turn signal wires in the smaller bundle running to the back of the bike. I had tapped into this later bundle before for a brake light modulator, so I knew that these wires were for the rear lights and rear turn signals.

Hope that helps.

Cheers,
Randy
Randy, as soon as I posted it I went outside and saw the diagraphm and the colors posted on it, so I deleted the post. Due to your post and pics I was able to get my lights working. I still don't have the speakers working.........not 100 percent sure where the rear speaker connector is. I posted a pic of what I think is it on another post and have gotten different opinions on if thats is or not. If you saw it and have a good idea if thats the rear speaker connector or not I would appreciate your feed back. Thanks again for your post, it was a great help.
Robby
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
243 Posts
Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Has anyone gotten the jtd with speakers in them....

I'm pretty frustrated at this point with the wiring for the speakers. The directions state to attach the 2male wires to the rear speaker connection with 2 female ends. When looking in the bike I found what I thought was the connection but it won't fit. (pic included) So today I take the bike to the dealer and he stated that connection was the c.b. connection and not the rear speaker connection that the rear speaker connection is on the side of the bike(pic included) They couldn't help me. If anyone else has gotten the lowers with speakers and have gotten them hooked up, could you please give me some guidance. TIA.
Robby
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
Rear speaker wire colors are pink/red and pink/black for one side and orange/red and orange/black for the other. Red stipe = +, Black stripe = -. Does not matter which side since radio does not fade left or right.
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top