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Discussion Starter #1
Now have 15k on the bike and recently started having a problem starting. Battery checks out perfect.

Sometimes when I hit the starter button it just gives one or less crank and quits. Hit it once or twice again and it will crank up.

As I said intermittent, sometimes when bike is cold, sometimes after riding for a while. I always try to start up in neutral for less stress on starter but fearing it may be going.

Any suggestions? Advice?
 

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Define "battery checks out perfect"

Did you put a meter across it to check voltage?
Did you then crank the bike to check voltage under load?

My race bike had the same problem last weekend. Several different chargers reported that the battery was fully topped off but it was clearly having a hard time turning the bike over. Sometimes it would fire, more often I would have to bump start it to get out for my race. Put a meter across it and it read 12.5 key off, 12.3 key on so pretty good there. Hit the starter button and it dropped to 2.4. Toast. New battery from my newest sponsor Shorai is on it's way and will be installed for next round. Problem solved.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That's actually a good point. Bike was in 2 different Vic dealers over last 3 months for different reasons, but I asked both to check it out and described problem. They couldn't reproduce problem, but informed me the battery was fine.

Battery is now 2 1/2 years old so it could be going under load. Doubt they checked that. May order a new one just to be safe. Where did you order yours or other than OEM is there a better battery?
 

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I've had the same problem lately. Finally, on Monday I went to start the bike after a run across town and it went "click". I was 20 minutes from home so I had to push start it. Fortunately the engine was already warm so it push started pretty easily. Parked the bike for now and have a new (Deka) battery on order.
 

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That's actually a good point. Bike was in 2 different Vic dealers over last 3 months for different reasons, but I asked both to check it out and described problem. They couldn't reproduce problem, but informed me the battery was fine.

Battery is now 2 1/2 years old so it could be going under load. Doubt they checked that. May order a new one just to be safe. Where did you order yours or other than OEM is there a better battery?
Load testing is a very easy thing to do. If you have a multimeter set it to DC volts, put the test probes on the battery terminals and hit the starter button. If you see anything below 9.5-10v WHILE cranking your battery is shot. 9.5+ volts and you have something else going on. For how easy the test is it's worth it to try before you spend the money on a new battery. If you don't have a multimeter, get a cheapo one from sears, harbor freight, or where ever. Accuracy isn't terribly important for this test so you don't need anything fancy, just the ability to read dv volts.

Assuming your battery is gone. I wouldn't bother with OEM victory. Get a yuasa or other quality AGM (sealed) battery, put a full charge on it before you install and off you go. If you want something techier you can do what I did and get a shorai. There are pros and cons to a battery like theirs though. Much like a highly tuned motor, their batteries perform far better than a lead acid but that extra performance requires extra care to make it last. You CAN use a standard battery charger when needed to charge the battery but you SHOULD use their balance charger to prevent overcharging individual cells. Also, unlike a lead acid that can go nearly flat and still be used, once a Shorai or any other advanced cell battery goes dead it's junk. Recycle it properly and buy a new one. Trying to charge a dead one will at best result in nothing happening and at worst result in a fire (don't ask how I know). The batteries are SAFE and EFFECTIVE when used and maintained properly. USER ERROR is the only way to end up with a problem.

Should you decide on a lead acid, buy from where ever you can get it the cheapest. If you decide to go with a Shorai, you can shop around but prices are generally pretty consistent. I buy direct from them due to my sponsorship agreement but obviously I'm in a different situation as a result of that.
 

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Clean the connections at the battery real good. You will need to remove them to do it. It doesn't take much with these bikes for them to start acting like this or even start running funny with a less than good connection. There is a breaker near the battery too. Occasionally they act up and need replacing. Should be able to get one at a local auto parts store if this is the issue.
 

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Go to NAPA and buy a 40A breaker its down by your battery I bet its bad. P/N 782-3116 make sure you un hook battery before putting it in. Its something like 7 bucks
 

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Battery is now 2 1/2 years old so it could be going under load.
While a battery can die at any age from a defect or abuse, I'd never 'expect' a 2.5 year old battery to be going. I'm still running the original battery in my 2003 VTX (though that bike was uncrated in 2005). Also using original batteries in a 2007 Buell and 2008 CBR.

Rob
 

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